Wednesday, January 29, 2025

Shorenji Temple Takahashi

 


When I first came to Japan I was quite intrigued by temples and even large houses that had walls that reminded me of Japanese castles. I later learned that surrounding some castles some buildings would have been incorporated into a defensive system, and that some temples were actually armed institutions, but mostly it was due to steep slopes requiring retaining walls.


However, Shorenji Temple in Takahashi was built as a defensive structure but masqueraded as a temple because of the laws at the time.


During the Edo Period the Tokugawa Shogunate decreed that each domain could only have one castle and that all samurai must reside in the castle town built around the castle.


Also the decrees governing repairs to castle were very strict and in most cases severely limited the daimyo in what they could do.


Shorenji Temple was re-constructed on this sitein 1657 as a defensive structure to protect the southern approach to Bitchu Matsuyama Castle, but as it was a temple they seem to have gotten away with it. It was originally founded in 815 and was located in a different area. The Kannon Hall has a ceiling and door that came from a boat used by the Lord of Okayama Castle in the invasion of Korea in 1592.


The previous post in this series was on Tairyuji Yakushi Temple next door.

Tuesday, January 28, 2025

Miho Shrine

 


Miho Shrine is a major shrine located at the Eastern tip of the Shimane Peninsula and is the head shrine of about 3,000 Miho shrines throughout Japan.


It is also said to be the head shrine of all Ebisu shrines nationwide, though that is also claimed by Nishinomiya Shrine in Hyogo.


There are two quite distinct origins for Ebisu, one as the "leech child" born to Izanagi and Izanami, and the other as Kotoshironushi, one of the sons of Okuninushi in Izumo. The former si the basis for Nishinomiya Shrine, and the latter for Miho Shrine in Izumo. In early Meiji Period the government officially classified Ebisu as Kotoshironushi.


Miho Shrine was mentioned in the Izumo Fudoki, the 8th century local gazeteers published shortly after the more famous Kojiki and Nihon Shoki.


It seems quite possible that at first the kami Mihosumi was enshrined here but that later Mihotsuhime and Kotoshironushi became the two kami under the influence of the Kojiki and Nihnshoki.


Mihotsuhime is a wife of Okuninushi, and step-mother to Kotoshironushi.


Their twin hondens are in a unique architecture style and registered as Important Cultural Properties. They were constructed in 1813.


I have not noticed before at other shrines, so am not sure how prevalent the custom is, but above the entrance gate hang two Onusa purification wands.


Kotoshironushi used to go fishing often at his favorite spot on an offshore islet.


He was there when his father, Okuninushi, sent for him to consult about the offer from Amaterasu envoys to hand over the land to her descendants in what is known as the Kuniyuzuri myth.


This event is recreated in two unique festivals involving boats, the Murote Fune held on December 3rd involving two large canoes, and the Aoshibagaki held on April 7th.


The shrine also has an impressive collection of hundreds of musical instruments that have been donated over the centuries.


846 are registered as Important Tangible Folk Cutural Properties and include the first accordion and organ in the country


Often depicted carrying a Sea Bream, Ebisu is well known as a kami of fishing but also safety at sea, and prosperity in business.


Mihotsuhime, a daughter of  Takamimusubi, is known for abundant harvest, marital harmony, safe childbirth, prosperity of descendants, and music and dance.


Mihonoseki is a small port in a sheltered position that was used as a lay-over for the Kitamaebune ships in the Edo period.


Served by buses from Matsue, it is a nice place for a quiet visit and the guesthouse used by Lafcadio Hearn is still in business.


The previous post on sights to see in Matsue was on Jozan Inari Shrine, another shrine with a famous boat festival.


Friday, January 24, 2025

Tairyuji Yakushi-in Temple

 


As far as I can make out, Tairyuji Temple and Yakushi-in Temple share the same grounds and are somehow connected yet considered separate.


The Nio gate, which is partway up the steps to the complex, dates back to the 17th century and contains a fine pair of Nio.


I am not sure if the priest is visiting the temple or returning home to the temple


The Yakushi-in hall is the smaller of the two buildings in the photo below.


Yakushi-in was established in the 10th century down near where Bitchu Takahashi station is today.


It was moved to its current location in the very early 17th century. It is a Shingon temple and its "secret" honzon is only revealed once every 50 years.


The Yakushi-in main hall is quite small, 3 bays wide and 3 bays deep, but is considered a fine example of Momoyama Period architecture and is registered as an Important Cultural Property of Okayama.


The Binzaru statue pictured below, was quite nice and is usually dark red in colour but may just be faded...


For many older Japanese the temple is well known as being the location for one of the "Tora-san" movies.




The previous post was on the Nariwa Art Museum.


Thursday, January 23, 2025

Senyuji Temple 58 Shikoku Ohenro Pilgrimage

 


Senyuji Temple, number 58 on the famed Ohenro Pilgrimage on Shikoku, is a mountain temple with stunning views down onto Imabari in Ehime.


For those who visit on foot there is a steep path from the Niomon gate up to the main temple grounds.


The Nio are of a standard design but quite striking.


One thing unusual about Senyuji is that it was said to be founded neither by Gyoki nor Kobo Daishi, the 2 founders of the majority of Ohenro temples.


legend says it was established by the provincial governor under orders from Emperor Tenchi in the mid to late 7th century. The honzon, a Senju Kannon, is said to have been carved by a Dragan woman who came up from the sea.


When Kobo Daishi visited it had fallen into disrepair but he rebuilt it. It again fell into disrepair during the Edo Period but was restored in the early Meiji Period.


It is not a very big temple and the buildings were rebuilt in the 1950's following a major fire, but it has great views. It is known for its shukubo, temple lodgings, quite well known for their delicious shojin ryori vegetarian cuisine.


I did not stay here on this trip, but later when walking the Shikoku Fudo Myoo Pilgrimage I did, and would heartily recommend it.


The statue of Binzaru (below) is said to be the biggest and best on the pilgrimage.


The previous temple was number 57, Eifukuji.


Wednesday, January 22, 2025

Nariwa Art Museum by Ando Tadao

 


Sometimes known as Takahashi City Nariwa Art Museum as the town of Nariwa was incorporated into Takahashi in 2004


Nariwa lie to the east of the old part of Takahashi, along the Nariwa River before it enters the takahashi River.


The Nariwa Art Museum was established in 1953, but the current building was opened in 1994.


It was designed by the renowned Japanese architect Ando Tadao.


One of the intriguing aspects of Japan, for me, is finding huge, modern, public buildings like museums or auditoriums in small rural towns.


many of these were funded by a program born in the pre-bubble era when, in many senses,  Japan had more mone than it knew what to do with.


What it did was give every single municipality a massive chunk of money which mostly got spent on such projects as this.


By now many of these establishments have gone bust, but this one is still going.


The main focus of the museum is a local-born artist, Kojima Torajiro (1881-1929) generally considered to be primarily an Impressionist.


Also exhibited are a collection of Egyptian artifacts collected by Kojima, and fossils from the Nariwa area.


The museum also stages temporary exhibitions throughout the year. It has a shop and a cafe.


For those without a particular interest in the exhibitions will find the architecture interesting enough by itself.


It is classic Ando, with huge expanses of plain, vertical; concrete. When freshly constructed and almost white it is quite powerful, but I wonder how Ando's buildings will look in another twenty years of built-up grime?


There is also plentiful use of water to bring in the natural environment by reflection.


There is also an inner pool faced by the cafe.


As with many of Ando's structures they are quite labyrinthic leading the visitor in and out of spaces.


The previous post in this series on Takahashi was on the old town architecture.


Other buildings by Ando I have posted on include the Inamori Auditorium in Kagoshima, Komyoji Temple on Shikoku, and the Decorative Tumulus Museum in Kumamoto.