Tebikigaura Daiba Park

 

Tebikigaura Daiba Park is a small clifftop park overlooking Tagi Port and the mouth of the Tagi River which formed the boundary between the old provinces of Iwami and Izumo.

It's the summer solstice and I am starting the 6th leg of my walk heading east along the Sea of Japan coastline and have just entered Izumo.

The most intriguing thing at the park was a pair of cannon. The first a full-size replica of a Japanese-style cannon, and the second, below, a 3/4 scale replica of a Western cannon.

In the 18th century the Matsue Domain installed two batteries, each of three cannon, at this spot and down at the mouth of the river.

The replica cannons here are based on documentation of another battery further up the coast in Tottori.

Looking across the bay is Hinomisaki, the western cape of the Shimane Peninsula where I would be visiting next day.

This area of beach and coast is named Tebikigaura after a myth concerning a daughter of Okuninushi named Adakayanushitakikkihime who lived in the area. She is the kami of the Adakaya Shrine much further east of Matsue with the cool straw serpents...

My plan was to get as far as around Izumo Taisha and spend the solstice night sleeping out...

The previous post was on the section of coast from Kute to Hane.

Miho Shrine

 

Miho Shrine is a major shrine located at the Eastern tip of the Shimane Peninsula and is the head shrine of about 3,000 Miho shrines throughout Japan.

It is also said to be the head shrine of all Ebisu shrines nationwide, though that is also claimed by Nishinomiya Shrine in Hyogo.

There are two quite distinct origins for Ebisu, one as the "leech child" born to Izanagi and Izanami, and the other as Kotoshironushi, one of the sons of Okuninushi in Izumo. The former si the basis for Nishinomiya Shrine, and the latter for Miho Shrine in Izumo. In early Meiji Period the government officially classified Ebisu as Kotoshironushi.

Miho Shrine was mentioned in the Izumo Fudoki, the 8th century local gazeteers published shortly after the more famous Kojiki and Nihon Shoki.

It seems quite possible that at first the kami Mihosumi was enshrined here but that later Mihotsuhime and Kotoshironushi became the two kami under the influence of the Kojiki and Nihnshoki.

Mihotsuhime is a wife of Okuninushi, and step-mother to Kotoshironushi.

Their twin hondens are in a unique architecture style and registered as Important Cultural Properties. They were constructed in 1813.

I have not noticed before at other shrines, so am not sure how prevalent the custom is, but above the entrance gate hang two Onusa purification wands.

Kotoshironushi used to go fishing often at his favorite spot on an offshore islet.

He was there when his father, Okuninushi, sent for him to consult about the offer from Amaterasu envoys to hand over the land to her descendants in what is known as the Kuniyuzuri myth.

This event is recreated in two unique festivals involving boats, the Murote Fune held on December 3rd involving two large canoes, and the Aoshibagaki held on April 7th.

The shrine also has an impressive collection of hundreds of musical instruments that have been donated over the centuries.

846 are registered as Important Tangible Folk Cutural Properties and include the first accordion and organ in the country

Often depicted carrying a Sea Bream, Ebisu is well known as a kami of fishing but also safety at sea, and prosperity in business.

Mihotsuhime, a daughter of  Takamimusubi, is known for abundant harvest, marital harmony, safe childbirth, prosperity of descendants, and music and dance.

Mihonoseki is a small port in a sheltered position that was used as a lay-over for the Kitamaebune ships in the Edo period.

Served by buses from Matsue, it is a nice place for a quiet visit and the guesthouse used by Lafcadio Hearn is still in business.

The previous post on sights to see in Matsue was on Jozan Inari Shrine, another shrine with a famous boat festival.

Tezen Art Museum & Garden

 

The Tezen Museum of Art near Izumo Taisha Shrine is a hidden gem for those interested in traditional Japanese arts & crafts, mingei, with the added bonus of having a delightful Izumo-style garden.

Located between the entrance to Izumo Taisha and Inasa Beach, the museum is housed in a series of large Edo-Period rice and sake warehouses.

The Tezen family moved to the area of Taisha around the end of the 17th century.

They became wealthy through trade in rice, sake, lumber etc and became official merchants for the domain.

As such their residence was sometimes used as a honjin, guesthouse, by the daimyo when he visited the area.

Over the centuries the Tezen family amassed a huge collection of art that is now the basis of the museum.

The collection consists of swords, screens, paintings, calligraphy, ceramics, lacquerware, etc.

The collection includes a lot of pieces connected to Matsudaira Fumai, the daimyo famous as a te master.

There is a permanent display of the collection , which also rotates so that more of the collection can be viewed. There are also temporary thematic exhibitions.

Most, but not all, the collection is of arts and crafts produced in the Izumo area.

The garden, called Mukaizawaen, is small, but delightful.

Not too far away in Izumo City is another hidden gem, the Izumo Folkcrafts Museum, also housed in the storehouses of a wealthy family.

The previous post in this series exploring the Izumo and Matsue area was on Kokokuji Temple including paintings and sculptures.

Kokokuji Temple Izumo

 

Kokokuji Temple is a Rinzai Zen temple founded in 1322.

It is located at the foot of the mountains that run along the Shimane Peninsula from the Izumo Taisha area.

Funding and support was provided by local nobleman Misawa Yasukuni.

The monk who founded it, Sanko Kokushi, also founded Unjuji Temple further east in the Yasugi area.

The temple may have fallen into disuse, but was revived and expanded in the late 18th century by Zen Master Setsun.

He is said to have started work on the garden, but it was his successor, Zen Master Toko who brought the garden to fruition by hiring Sawa Gentan.

The garden is the only thing that te vast majority of sources talk about

However there are some nice statues, paintings, and kote-e...

The honzon is a statue of Shaka Nyorai, the Japanese name for the historical Buddha Sakyamuni.

The garden, which is highly rated among afficianados, is covered in my previous post.

Kokokuji is a little off the beaten track, though it is not far from Hirata.

If you are heading to Gakuenji Temple, a magnificent place itself, then you drive right past Kokokuji.

Of course, if you are that far off the beaten track then nearby Karakama Shrine is a must visit.

The previous post was on the Zen garden here.