Ushi-zuki. Bull Sumo in the Oki Islands

 

Bullfighting takes place in numerous areas across the country of Japan, but it is not the man versus bull familiar in the West, but rather "bull sumo", called ushi-zuki here in the Oki Islands, where 2 bulls "fight" each other.

There are 4 rings where the sport in held on Dogo, the main island of the Oki Islands. Three are outdoors, but one is covered and is where demonstration bouts are held for tourists.

It is said that the sport began in the 13th century as entertainment for the exiled Emperor Gotoba on neighbouring Nakanoshima island, but it is no longer held there.

The bouts are organized by weight groupings, not by age.

Each bull has a handler holding a rope connected to the nose ring, and can pull the bulls apart if it looks like injury may occur.

The two bulls lock horns and then attempt to push each other, sometimes spinning. Once one backs down the bout is over, but ut can take up to ten minutes, so is longer than human sumo.

It is claimed that there is no gambling involved, but I remain sceptical. Gambling is technically illegal in Japan,..... except for horse-racing, boat racing, lottery, and pachinko etc.....as a side note, cock-fighting was very widespread in Japan and dates back to ancient times, but I have never heard of any taking place nowadays.

The previous post in this series on the Oki Islands was on a fishing quay nearby.

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Tamae Kannon-in Temple 21 Chugoku Kannon Pilgrimage

 

The 21st temple of the Chugoku Kannon Pilgrimage, Kannon-in, is just a couple of kilometers from the 20th temple, Daisho-in.

Located in Tamae, a fishing village that overlooks the Hashimoto River and the castle town of Hagi on the opposite bank.

A temple stood here in the early 9th century but fell into disuse and disrepair.

In the mid 16th century it was revived and made a Rinzai Zen temple. 

The honzon is a Shaka Nyorai and the Kannon Hall enshrines an 11-faced Kannon, siad to have been found in the nets of local fishermen. Consequently, the temple has been favoured by fishermen for protection at sea.

The temple has burned down several times, but each time the statues survived.

The main hall and Kannon Hall date to the mid 19th century.

The previous post was on the garden at Daisho-in, a few kilometers away.

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From Onbara to Kurihara Bridge

 

On the third day of my walk up the Gonokawa River towards its source, I have passed through the boundaries of Gotsu City and Kawamoto Town and have entered Misato Town, a huge area of scattered vullages and uninhabited mountains straddling the river for the next few days.

I leave the small settlement of Onbara after visiting its shrine. A very quiet little place that the "main" road along the river bypasses.

It's mid-October and the Goldenrod is in full bloom. It's originally an American plant but since the mid 20th century and spread across Japan. It occupies the same ecological niche as the native Susuki, often referred to as Japanese Pampas Grass. Goldenrod is an invasive species seemingly taking over. In the US, Susuki is an invasive species seemingly crowding out Goldenrod. Balance of a kind I guess.

A narrow lane leads back to the riverbank. Kurihara Bridge is just ahead.

Several roadside altars have some offerings of coins and fresh flowers, and swept clean, attesting to the care given by at least one of the locals....

The previous post in this series was on Onbara Hachimangu, the local shrine.

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Shinjiteien Garden at Daisho-in

 

Daisho-in, the Rinzai Zen Temple in Hagi that is the 10th temple on the Chugoku Kannon Pilgrimage has a small pond and stroll garden next to the Shoin.

The front part of the temple consists mostly of a moss garden, though it was not well maintained last time I visited.

The Shinjiteien garden, named after the pond in the shape of the chinese character for "heart" is also not well maintained.

The gardens are not worth making a special trip for, but if you have limited time in Hagi and want to visit one of the big Mori cemetery temples, then I would prefer this one to Tokoji.

I have seen photos taken in the Autumn and they do look much nicer...

The previous post in this series was on Daisho-in temple itself and many of the statues...

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The Views from Hemp Mountain

At 599m, Taima-San (Hemp Mountain) is the highest coastal mountain in the Hamada area. Among the many antennae and towers that bristle from its peak is an observation tower

At the base of the mountain is the town of Sufu, home to the largest kofun (burial mound) in the Iwami area.

The Chugoku Nature Trail passes over Taima-san, and there is an interesting shrine and garden just below the peak which I covered in some earlier posts...

These photos were taken on two different visits.

The 1st, 9th, and 10th photos are of the Misumi Power Station. This is a big coal-fired plant that, since these photos were taken, has doubled in size. As a side note, for those of you that know me from a previous life, the original plan for the power plant was to import coal from Black Mesa in Arizona, but shifted to Australian and Chinese coal.

If you come up the mountain from Sufu on the Nature Trail, you pass right by the biggest kofun in all of Iwami.

Photos 6 and 7 are of Sufu. Photos 8 and 11 are of Hamada, further up the coast. The famous "bridge to nowhere" is clarly visible.

Photos 2, 3, and 12 are of views inland over the Iwami region.

The previous post was on Taimasan Shrine, the large shrine with gardens just below the peak.

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