Mitarai Historic Preservation District

Mitarai is a well-preserved historic district on an island in the middle of the Inland Sea, its location being one of the main reasons it escaped redevelopment and modernization

Mitarai rose to prominence in the Edo Period as a safe harbour for the ships of this busy marine travel route. Mr Miyamoto, who unfortunately is no longer in business, was a boatbuilder who then turned to making realistic scale models of the kinds of vessels that plied these waters.

Mr Miyamotos premises were formerly one of the many waterfront teahouses that the port was famous for.

Of course "teahouse" really had very little to do with tea but is a codeword for brothel.

While ships would wait in the harbour for favorable tides and winds, the sailors and passengers would be entertained by young ladies.

A ranking system for "nighttime entertainment" districts was regularly published, like sumo rankings after which it was modelled, and Mitari was considered one of the top such districts in all of Japan.

Even after the introduction of steam-powered vessels, when the need for the harbour ceased to be, ships would still stop here.

Wakaebisuya was one of the top "teahouses" in Mitarai and catered to the high-end of the clientele, and it is said more than 100 girls worked here. There were many other teahouses and so the total number of prostitues was in the thousands. The 5 photos below are of Wakaebisuya, which is now open to the public.

It is said that in Wakaebisuya the daimyo of Kumamoto once spent 1,000 gold pieces in a single night.

sailors who had to stay on board their boats were served by girls who were ferried out to the ships in a kind of boat called Ochirofune.

The town continued to be known for its entertainment right up until the 1956 anti-prostitution law which put vpaid to many such districts across Japan.

Mitarai remained forgotten until 1999 when a series of bridges connected this group of islands to each other and the mainland.

MItarai was recognized as a Historical Preservation District not long afterwards and started to attract some more visitors, but still there were very limited options for eating or accommodation.

However, the 2021 Oscar-winning movie "Drive My Car" was partially filmed here and now there are several more lodging and dining choices.

As well as Wakaebisuya, there are several traditional buildings open to visitors.

Though only built in 1937, the Otome-za is a traditional Japanese theatre that was converted briefly into a cinema but has been restored to its former glory.

There is almost no public transport to easily reach Mitarai. There are some small ferries that connect to Omishima on the famed Shimanami Kaido route, and you can drive across the bridges from near Kure in Hiroshima.

Many people visit by bike as the Tobiishima Kaido is a cycle route along the islands, and of course its possible to connect with a short ferry ride to Omishima.

There is not much else to see on the island, but at the other end of the Tobiishima kaido the Shotoen is  well worth a visit.

The previous post in this series was on the walk along the islands to get here.

Myoo-in Temple 8 Chugoku Kannon Pilgrimage

 

Myo-o-in Temple on the bank of the Ashida River in Fukuyama is home to two National Treasures, the pagoda and the main hall.

Though early records don't exist it is said to have been founded by Kobo Daishi in 807.

The honzon, an 11-faced Kannon is dated to the ninth century so it is certainly possible to be that old.

The temple was originally called Saikozan Richi-in Jofukuji.

The temple was supported by the nearby settlement of Kusado Sengen which grew wealthy through trade and became one of the bigger temples of the region.

The current main hall was built in 1321 and the 5 storey pagoda in 1348.

It is the fifth-oldest pagoda in Japan.

Much of the temple was damaged by a landslide in 1620 and rebuilt by Mizuno Katsunari a few years later.

The third Mizuno Daimyo, Katsutada, merged a nearby small temple, Myoo-in, with it and renamed the temple.

A small Good Luck Daikokuten altar and stone carving.

The torii and steps leading up to the Atago Shrine.

I'm not sure what the kokeshi dolls were doing hung up by the 6 Jizo statues.... but they are not there anymore...

As well as the Pagoda and Main Hall National Treasures, plenty of the other buildings are also quite old. The gate is dted to 1614, and the Shoin is dated to 1621, the bell tower to 1647.

The main hall is classed as "eclectic" as it incorporates architectural features from a range of traditions.

There is a Benzaiten pond and statues of the 6 other "Lucky Gods" nearby.

The previous post was on Kusado Inari Shrine next door.....

Takuhi Shrine in the Oki Islands

 

Takuhi Shrine is possibly the most famous of all the shrines on the Oki Islands, considering that during the Edo Period both Hakusai and Hiroshige, two of the most pre-eminent artist of the times, did prints of the shrine and its founding legend.

Situated high on 452 meter high Mount Takuhi which is the central peak of the submerged caldera that has formed the Dozen group of islands, the shrine has expansive views over the surrounding seas and islands.

Getting there involves a hike up a mountain trail which passes several smaller shrines on the way.

Known as the "Burning Lights" shrine, the legend is that three fireballs arose from the sea and flew into the cave where the shrine now stands.

Another story has it that when Emperor Gotoba was on his way here to exile his ship was lost and a light from the shrine saved him.

The origin stories most likely relate to the practice of signal fires and temple and shrine  lanterns being used by sailors to navigate at night. Takuhi Shrine became well known as a shrine offering protection on sea journeys.

The honden of the shrine is built into a small cave and is said to be the oldest building on the Oki Islnds.

It was built in 1732, prefabricated in Osaka and then shipped here and carried up the mountain to be reassembled.

It, along with the main hall are registered Important Cultural Properties.

The ornate carvings only appear on the front and one side of the structure, with the two unseen sides remaining plain.

By the 14th century it had become a Shugendo site and Unjoji Temple was set up with a Jizo as honzon.

The combined site became known as Takuhi Gongen until the early Meiji Period when most traces of Buddhism were removed.

The kami enshrined here is now listed as Ohirumenomuch, more commonly known as Amaterasu the Sun Goddess. Originally the mountain itself was considered the kami. For most of its history the primary deity was a Jizo.

There are numerous smaller shrines dotted around mountainside.

On one visit I was accompanied by the head priest whose family were originally Buddhist priests serving the complex.

The former priests house not far from the shrine is now used as the shrine office. It is a fine example of a traditional large house .

While chatting with the priest he showed me this painting of a Tengu. According to our chat he said that the highest shrine on the mountain was a Sanjin Shrine dedicated to Tengu. However, upon some research it turns out that the sanjin concept was created by Hirata Atsutane in the 19th century.... He also showed me a print of Izuna Daigongen which at the time I described as Tengu Dakiniten Fudo Myoo.

The previous post in this series on the Oki Islands was on the kagura performed in the area.