Thursday, July 23, 2026

Iwami Ginzan Omori

 


Omori, like Yunotsu where I started walking today, is both a World Heritage Site and a Historic Preservation District.


One my way through the town I made a quick visit to Anyoji Temple.


The Kote-e dragon is quite magnificent, and I have posted it before, but here is another angle.


I believe this is a sutra repository.


It is a Jodo Shinshu temple and so I suspect this is an Amida....


Many of the old buildings have been restored, and many remain uninhabited...


Toyosaka Shrine was a temple until 1868. It enshrines Mori Motonari. A statue of him was in the castle above the town but moved to the temple later.


Since this visit the shrine has been much renovated....


I have posted on Omori numerous times before, and will certainly be posting more later.


Rather than wasting my time inserting links to previous posts, which almost no one bothers to follow, I simply suggest you click on the omori tag at the bottom of the post.


The final photo in the post is the entrance foyer of the impressive Kumagai Residence, well worth the entry fee.
















The previous post in thois series on day 38 of my walk along the Chugoku Kannon Pilgrimage was on the walk from Yunotsu on the Ginzan Kaido.


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Wednesday, July 22, 2026

Wakamiya Hachimansha, Yasaka Shrine, Kifune Shrine, & Yatate Shrine

 


After leaving the delightful Komo Shrine in the early morning of my 6th day walking the Kyushu Fudo Myoo Pilgrimage, the next section of my walk headed pretty much due East.


As usual, I stopped in at any shrines I passed. The first was called Wakamiya Hachimansha, and curiously the main kami was Emperor Nintoku. In 1908 a whole bunch of other kami were jointly enshrined, including Amaterasu, Susano, Takitsuhime, Ichikishimahime, and Kotoshironushi. I also saw a small Inari shrine in the grounds.


Next stop was a Yasaka Shrine.


Enshrining, of course, Susano and members of his family. Yasaka is the post-Meiji name for many different shrines, one of the most common names being Gion-Sha. No mention on the signboard what the old name was.


No mention of the secondary shrine in the grounds, but the early morning sun made for some striking photos.



The third shrine was a Kifune Shrine, a branch of the famous Kifune Shrine (Kibune Shrine) in the north of Kyoto.


It was located right next to a 6th-century burial mound.


When I first came to Japan, I read that Shinto had an aversion to death, and yet  I started to discover many ancient tombs had shrines built next to them...


Once again, the signboards gave no info on dates, history, or other shrines in the grounds.


The final shrine was Yatate Shrine, the largest of the group.


It is also known as Daikongawa Shrine.


In 720, Otomo no Tabito led an army of imperial and Usa Hachiman troops against the Kumaso in southern Kyushu. He planted arrows in the ground and prayed at this spot for victory.


In 725 a Hachiman shrine was established here and was made one of 8 shrines of an Imperial procession.


In 765, the reed pillow of the ritual from Komo Shrine visits here on its procession to the eight "outer shrines".

The previous post in this series on my walk along the Kyushu Fudo Myoo Pilgrimage was on the large and impressive Komo Shrine.


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Monday, July 20, 2026

Iwami Ginzan Kaido Yunotsu Route

 


After crossing over a pass from Shimizu, the footpath once again joins a road and then head roughly East up the Yusato River.


On the opposite side of the valley, a bit too far to be bothered with a detour, is a big, newly rebuilt shrine.


This is Mizukami Shrine and has been important for a long time, being listed in the Engishiki.


The current honden dates to 1761. The shrine enshrines a pair of sea kami, which is quite unusual so far inland. According to the legend, a storm blew them to the nearby coast, and they headed inland attracted to the light of the mountain behind. While here they taught the local people to dry the rice harvest on similar structures used to dry fishing nets, a unique method still practise today.


A little further and I pass by Zuisenji Temple, a large temple with big gatehouse and 350 year old Gingko tree.


A big signboard point out the mountaintops nearby that housed two big castles that straddled the Silver Mine Road, Yahazu Castle and Yataki Castle.


This must have been a bustling valley in the heyday of the mine, as Yunotsu was the biggest port supplying the mine.


Until 1600 the silver would also have been taken out on this route, but after the Tokugawa took over the mines the silver was shipped overland to Onomichi, thereby avoiding the sea route that passed the Mori strongholds of what is now  western Yamaguchi.


After a while, the route turns north, leaves the road, and heads over the mountains.


A big sign in the forest marks Korozaka, Downhill Slope. It is said that battles took place here in the 16th century as warlords vyed for control of the mines.


There is no historical evidence for a battle that supposedly defeated the Mori, who eventually controlled the mine and most of the Chugoku Region, though some believe it refers to an earlier battle at Gassan Toda Castle.


It is now a steep uphill climb through the forest.


I have walked this route, a World Heritage Site, numerous times, and have yet to meet another human along the way....




From the pass there are great views down to where the mine area is.


It is a short, steep downhill walk to what used to be the guard station and then closed-off mineshafts start to appear, and then the one open to the public, the Ryugenji Mabu.


Soon the route reaches Omori, the administrative centre of the mine district.


The previous post was on the curious Ryuukoji Temple.


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