Hateiji Temple 5 on the Iwami Kannon Pilgrimage

 

Hateiji Temple was rather curious. On the one hand it appeared deserted and unused, but on the other there was a recently maintained gate with some striking Nio statues.

Other than the nio, and a small bell tower there was nothing else in the grounds. It was however home to a bustling kindergarten. I have seen quite a few smaller temples and shrines that have leased or rented some of their grounds to such establishments. In cities, they often become car parks.

The Nio were quite remarkable and suggested that in earlier times the temple was more important and prosperous. Above the entrance to the main hall the signboard displayed the temple's "mountain name", possibly Toraisan, though I am informed it uses an obscure kanji character.

The paper nameslips attached to the building suggest that this was one of the temples on the original Iwami kannon Pilgrimage that started in nearby Iwami Ginzan. A list of the original pilgrimage temples included more than a third that no longer exist, probably destroyed in the anti-Buddhist violence of early Meiji.

This "new" Iwami pilgrimage I am following starts in Oda City and I am getting close to the end of my third day walking it. This newer pilgrimage is called Iwami Mandala Pilgrimage, and though it has 33 main temples, there are a rather large number of "extra" temples.

Historic streets of Kiragawa

 

Kiragawa is a small port on the west side of the Muroto Peninsula in Kochi on Shikoku. If you are following the Shikoku pilgrimage in the standard clockwise direction you reach Kiragawa after visiting Kongochoji Temple.

 

Kiragawa is one of the featured sites of the UNESCO Geopark of Cape Muroto, but before that it was registered as  a historic preservation district.

One of the notable features of the architecture is the lines of rooftiles embedded in the plaster walls to help shed water on this storm-lashed coastline.

The port gre to prominence in the late 19th and early 20th centuries by exporting lumber and a particular type of charcoal called Tosa Binchotan. Still made today, it is made from a type of oak and has a metallic ring when struck. Its main feature is that it is odorless and so great for barbecuing.

There are about 120 of these preservation districts throughout Japan, and while some are very touristy and disneyfied, i find the less visited sites like Kiragawa more appealing. A longer guide to Kiragawa I wrote can be found here.

Yama Shrine

 

After leaving Fuki-ji temple, the oldest wooden building in Kyushu and a fairly major tourists site, I carried on up the narrow, mountain road upon which vehicular traffic had ceased passing me. On this, my first day embarked upon the Kyushu Fudo Myo Pilgrimage I was following the Kunisaki Hanto Minemichi Long Trail which roughly followed the route of the ancient Kunisaki pilgrimage.

The road crossed over a ridge and dropped down into the next of the 28 valleys that radiate out from the centre of the peninsula. 28 "chapters" of the Lotus Sutra, the Buddhist text that the pilgrimage maps. I arrive at the entrance to Yama Shrine.... simply named Mountain Shrine.

Over the years, as I have wandered the back roads of rural Japan I have noticed that some regions have very few shrines, and other areas have huge number of shrines. Kunisaki is one of the latter. Yama Shrine is quite crude and ridimentary. No fancy carvings nor elaborate structures. More like a simple mountain hut.

Like many shrines in the region is does however have a pair of stone Nio, the Buddhist guardians that are often found at temples. In 1868 the government officially separated Buddhism and "shinto" and elements such as Nio were removed from shrines. Apparently, the memo never reached Kunisaki. It has sometimes been referred to The Land That Time Forgot, as like my own home region of Iwami, traditions were not so radically reinvented.

There are said to be more than 32,000 stone statues of various sizes throughout the peninsula, one for each kanji character that comprises the Lotus Sutra.

Itohara Residence Garden

 

The Itohara family were high-ranking samurai who were vassals of the Matsue Domain. They were among a groupf of such families who controlled the production of iron deep in the Chugoku Mountains in Okuizumo.

The Daimyo would stay in their residence while inspecting his territory, so the mansion and garden had to be of the highest standard. The formal garden attached to the residence is in Izumo style, and one of its features are the stone paths made with rounded and rectangular stones.

The house is still lived in by descendants of the family so is not open to the public, though the garden is.

There is also a less formal woodland garden planted with more than 300 species of flowers, grasses, and shrubs, that can be strolled around and a large museum devoted to iron production and tatara, the kind of forge used to smelt iron sand.

Ryukoji Temple 41 on the Shikoku Pilgrimage

 

Ryukoji Temple is one of several temples on the famous Shikoku Pilgrimage that were not established until late in the 19th century.

According to the legend, Kobo Daishi encountered an old man carrying rice near here and took him to be a manifestation of Inari Daimyojin, the rice god, and so established an Inari shrine here. The shrine still exists further up the hillside from Ryukoji.

In 1868 the new Japanese government set about rewriting the religious landscape of Japan and "separated" Buddhism and "shinto" and so Ryukoji was established.

Enshrined here is a "hidden" 11-faced Kannon and the temple just consists of the small main hall and the daishido. There are a few unusual sculptures made from strangely twisted pieces of natural wood, and also statues of the Seven Lucky Gods.

Shohinken Teahouse & Garden

Shohinken is an Edo-period garden and teahouse not far from Yatsushiro Castle in the south of Kumamoto.

It was built in 1688 by Naoyuko Matsui, the third Matsui Daimyo of the domain, for his mother. I believe the site was originally a temple md the basis of the garden may have already been in existence.

It is sometimes known as Hama no Chaya, "Beach Tea"house", as it was adjacent to the beack of the tidal Kuma River, though now it is more than 1K from the river.

A large part of the 9,000 sq m garden is a large pond with small bridges and stepping stones.. In 2002 it was registered as a National Scenic Spot.

There are many planters in the pond and they come alive in early summer when thousands of Irises bloom. There are also lillies and lotus plants. The shoin-style teahouse is unusual in that it has two floors. I am pretty sure the glass was added in the early Meiji Period.

Under normal circumstance the main building cannot be entered, but there is a small museum attached with tea ceremony articles and other artifacts connected to the matsui Clan.

Yatsushiro Municipal Museum

 

The Yatsushiro Municipal Museum was one of the earliest projects of Kumamoto Artpolis, a prefecture-wide program of innovative architecture. It was built in 1991 and designed by Toyo Ito.

It appears very light with its sweeping canopies, and to my mind is reminiscent of one of his most famous earlier projects, Steel Hut.

It appears to be a single storey building, but the artificial hill it stands on contains a lower floor.

The large cylindrical form on top is actually a storage space. Traditionally museums have storage in the basement, but the water table here is quite high.

Ive been here twice but on both occasions it was closed so I cannot report on the museums content

Yatsushiro Castle

Yatsushiro castle was completed in 1622 after three years of construction. It replaced a nearby castle that had been destroyed by an earthquake. Like most castles in Japan, it was dismantled in the first years of the Meiji Period so could not be used as a base to threaten the new government.

The moat and impressive stonework still remain, though when built the dressed limestone would have been quite bright and gleaming. From the mid 17th century until its decommissioning in the late 19th century the castle was controlled by the Matsui Clan.

Where the castle buildings once stood is now a shrine. The castles of Edo Japan were the symbol of political authority, and when they were destroyed a shrine was often built on the site. Many times they enshrined the last Daimyo, but also common were new Gokoku Shrines, the local branch of the infamous Yasukuni shrine, both types of shrine being very much of the "political" aspect of shinto. The shrine here is also a political one, enshrining Prince Kaneyoshi, a son of the 14th century Emperor Godaigo.

Yatsushiro was the second castle in the Kumamoto Domain, unusual because Tokugawa law stated only one castle was allowed per domain, but Kumamoto, was allowed a second one to strengthen defense against three threats, the powerful Shimazu Clan to the south, Christianity, which was powerful in Kyushu, and foreigners, who traditionally had entered Japan through Kyushu.

Yatsushiro catle is now a park and is free to enter.

Io-ji Temple 54 on the Kyushu Pilgrimage

 

Io-ji temple is not very large and is located not too far from the ruins of Yatsushiro Castle. The temple was patronized by the Matsui Clan who rued the area from the mid 17th Century. The chunky stone Nio guarding the temple are very much in Kyushu style.

The honzon of the temple is Yakushi Nyorai, housed in a seperate Yakushi-do. There are several Kanno statues in the grounds and a couple of Fudo Myo.

There is a shrine to Ashite Kojin, and many ema in the shape of legs and hands were left there.

There was a statue and a painting of some deity riding a white horse, but I have no idea who it is.

Yatsushiro Myokensai

 

I arrived at Yatsushiro Shrine in late November on the 44th day of my first walk around Kyushu. A few days earlier was the Yatsushiro Myokensai Festival which originates from the shrine. On display at the shrine are some of the "creatures" that are paraded during the festival.

It is one of the major festivals of Kyushu and one of the 33 festivals that are registered as intangible cultural assets with UNESCO. It features horses predominantly and of course mikoshi and such.

The most unique creature is perhaps the genbu which is kind of a cross between a turtle and a serpent. It is the daoist symbol for the north, and as this is a festival to Myoken, the Buddhist deity associated with the Pole Star and Big Dipper, it is not surprising.

If I had been here a few days earlier I could have seen the festival, but for sure I would not have been abe to get a room.