Over the Mountains to the Sea Again

 

Leaving Kubokawa and temple 37 Iwamotoji, the route carries on south towards temple 38, a long way a away down at the tip of Shikoku, Cape Ashizuri.

It is December 1st, the twentieth day of my walk along the famous Shikoku Pilgrimage, and it's cool and damp with the clouds clinging to the forested mountain slopes and the rain intermittent.

It's not a day for dawdling and exploring.... I pass some small shrines but do not check them out...

Much of the way is narrow roads with little or no traffic, and a few times, tunnels replace what would have been passes in earlier times...

After the tunnel, it is pretty much downhill all the way...

The rain picks up a little..... I have now crossed over from Shimanto to Kuroshio.

By the time I reach the coast at a place called Saga, it gets windier too...

I take a break in a seaside park and cook up some oatmeal....

The park shelter is not enough to keep the rain and wind out, so I use my umbrella as a windshield...

The tiny stove I have runs on the little paraffin blocks used in restaurants..... with the tiny kettle they only weigh a few ounces, but I can make tea, coffee, soup, oatmeal, instant noodles, pretty much anywhere....

I carry on down the blustery coast....

I had heard there was a free place to stay not far away and I hope I can find it....

The previous post in this series on the space between the temples on the Shikoku Ohenro Pilgrimage was on the Kominka Cafe near to Iwamotoji Temple.

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Itsukushima Shrine Koshigahama

 

The Itsukushima Shrine in Koshigahama near Hagi is situated on the banks of Myojin Pond.

The pond is tidal but also contains freshwater, so species of fish and marine life from both ecosytsems can be found in it.

The pond is on the sandbar that connects Mount Kasayama, a small volcano, with the mainland.

The shrine was established by the second Mori Lord of the Hagi Domain, Tsunahiro, in 1686.

It is a branch of the famous Itsukushima Shrine on Miyajima in Hiroshima, which had earlier been part of the Mori Domain.

Not sure what fish these are, but sea bream, parrotfish, mullet, rays, and sea bass can all be found in the pond.

The pond was previously known as Benten Pond and the original Benten Shrine is now a sub shrine of the Itsukushima. Bezaiten was considered a manifestation of Itsukushimahime.

Other sun shrines in the grounds include an Inari and a Konpira.

This was the start of day 30 of my walk along the Chugoku Kannon Pilgrimage.

The previous post was on the last part of my walk on day 29, across the Matsumoto River.

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Miyahata Shrine Kunisaki

 

Almost at the end of my 5th day walking around the Kunisaki Peninsula at the start of the Kyushu Fudo Myoo Pilgrimage, my last shrine of the day was Miyahata Shrine.

It seems to be quite a largish shrine with a long approach from the main road, but is totally lacking in any Buddhist elements, like Nio guardian, which suggests it is maybe not so old and maybe only dating back to Edo or a little earlier.

Curiously the second torii was made of some kind of plastic.

There was no signboard, and I can find absolutely no information online. The names on the torii are Tenjingu and Toshijingu.

The ox statue suggests Tenjin, the deified version of Sugawara Michizane. The previous shrine I visited had a Toshidaimyojin which was Otoshi, so maybe this is also Otoshi.

Up on the hillside is a collection of small, local shrines, which means maybe the bTenjin shrine supplanted the earlier shrine.

As can be seen in the first photo, there are some nice carvings on the shrine building.

The previous post in this series was on the nearby Toshi Daimyojin Shrine.

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Mouth of the Matsumoto River

 

The area of Hagi around the port and the mouth of the Matsumoto River is called Hamasaki.

Though there was still more than a month until Girls day, March 3rd, there were several displays of Hina dolls...

Hamasaki is one of three Historic Preservation Districts in Hagi, though on this visit I was in a hurry to get home so didn't tarry or explore.

I did pass a few old, traditional buildings, and one not so old but in an advanced state of collapse.

The reach the Matsumoto River, the name of the easternmost fork of the Abu River that creates the delta upon which Hagi was built.

I start  to head downstream to the first bridge crossing the river so I can continue East.

I did not know it at the time, but there is a small, unique ferry that crosses over here. On later trips is used it and will write about it then.

I am not sure what the wooden posts protruding from the river were from, but they make great resting spots for seabirds.

Some type of cormorant and some kind of gulls.... forgive me for not being a twitcher...

I head east and pass the big warehouses of a sake brewery.

A little later, a noborigama, the traditional kind of climbing kiln used in Japan.

Hagi is famous for its pottery. Started by kidnapped Korean potters at the end of Hideyoshi's failed invasion of Korea in the 16th century.

This climbing kiln is at the Yoshiga Tabi Memorial Museum. Yoshiga Tabi was an early 20th century potter.

The final shot is at the waterside shed of Japan Fisheries, looking at the Ebisu Shipyard World Heritage Site.

This was where the Mori tried to build a western-style warship in the mid 19th century. I will cover it and the other World Heritage sites inHagi in later posts.

This was the end of day 29 of my walk along the Chugoku Kannon Pilgrimage, and day 30 would begin in a couple of months during cherry blossom season. From here the route is basiclly up the Jaoan Sea coast, through Shimane, my home area, and then through Tottori., a much more relaxed and less populated region compared to the first part of the pilgrimage.

The previous post in this series was the Sumiyoshi Shrine in Hamasaki.

if you would like to subscribe by email, just leave your email address in the comments below. It will not be published or made public. I post new content almost every day, and send out an email about twice a month with short descriptions and links to the most recent posts.