Utago Miho Shrine

 This small shrine goes overboard with marine-safety gods, has the most strangely looking Fudo Myoo, and proves that angry ghosts can be horses.

The main shrine in the old fishing harbour of Utago is a Miho Shrine on what was until the 1700's a small island named Ebisujima, but which was connected to the mainland by a man-made causeway.

As a branch of the famous Miho Shrine in Mihonoseki, the main kami is Kotoshironushi, now equated with Ebisu. Also enshrined are a whole slew of other kami with connections to maritime safety.

The Sumiyoshi Sanjin are enshrined here, the three kami associated with Sumiyoshi Shrine, and then there are Omononushi and Emperor Sutoku, the two kami of Konpira shrines, and finally Ichikishimahime, one of the three Munakata kami associated with the safety of travel between Japan and Korea, and alone often equated with Benzaiten, a water kami.

Standing at the side of the main shrine building is a very unusual statue of Fudo Myoo. No longer carrying a sword, it is carved out of some kind of eroded black rock. My feeling is a kind of volcanic rock but it is full of holes. The head in particular is most weird.

Behind the shrine in an altar among rocks is a horse made of straw. I had seen similar things before at shrines on the Tottori coast, but this one comes from a fire that badly damaged the village and in the process, killed a horse. Subsequently, fires kept breaking out until they figured out it was the angry ghost of the dead horse causing the fires and so created the straw horse and altar to propitiate it. Angry ghosts are never far away in Japan....

The previous post was on the village of Utago where the shrine is.

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Magical Giant Bamboo Forests of Sasaguri

 

One of the great bonuses found on the Sasaguri Pilgrimage is that numerous times the walking trail passes through pristine forests of Giant Bamboo.

With only the merest whisper of a breeze, the bamboos clack against each other like wind chimes....

I know that the Arashiyama Bamboo Forest is one of the most popular tourist sites in all of Japan, but who prefers shuffling shoulder to shoulder through a manicured park with literally thousands of people, when you could be alone deep inside a magical space...?

That was a rhetorical question. The value of Arashiyama is you can take the same photos as millions and millions of other people and then post them on the same social media sites....

But, for the rest of us, I highly recommend the Sasaguri Pilgrimage.... very close to Hakata and you don't have to do the whole 4 days.....

These pics were taken after leaving a couple of temples in the Nakanokawachi area....

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Utago Fishing Village

 

Utago is a fairly decent-sized little fishing village. At the edge of town is a new fishing harbour, but the old, original harbour is in the middle of town after crossing over a small river.

Dark, weathered wood is the norm for these places affected by the weather that often arrives from the sea. Utago has a railway station, but the buildings were destroyed in a storm a few years ago and has been replaced with a small bus shelter-type structure. One bench, no ticket machine....

The harbour is quite picturesque, with pine trees planted around the village shrine. It deserves a post of its own which will be next.

It seems like it would have been a small, thriving community some decades ago. Now there are no stores except for a konbini ten kilometers away.....

A few hundred meters up the coast is a tiny little harbour with just a handful of houses...

In front of one, an old lady trims seaweed....

This tiny settlement has its own small Ebisu Shrine, and a roadside shrine of sacred stones...

The previous post in this series on day 31 of my walk along the Chugoku Kannon Pilgrimage was on the beautiful walk to here from Kiyo, down the coast where I started the day.

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Rakan at Tamonji

 

Rakan,  sometimes called arhats, are said to be the disciples of the historical Buddha.

Statues of them are known for being quite expressive, with every one being distinct.

It is said that you cannot fail to see the features of  someone you know in at least one of them.

Sometimes, a full 500 Rakan statues will be on display, but more commonly, much fewer.

On the hillside approach to Tamonji Temple north of Kobe, I was surprised to find these pictured here...

One group were more expressive and somewhat larger than most of the others. They had some patina of green, indicating they were somewhat old.

Most seemed to be newer and of a smaller, standardized size and with fewer features.

I visited early in the morning and so the low sun and shadows helped make them appear more magical...

I have posted on rakan many times before, including Sennyoji Temple in Kyushu with a full 500, another 500 on an island mountaintop, and the quite well-known ones on Miyajima.

The previous post was on the many other sights, and the intriguing history of Tamonji Temple.

Please take time to enjoy the photos..... this is not tiktok.....

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Kisshoin Tamonji Temple

 

This temple in the mountains north of downtown Kobe was a real revelation.

The sign at the entrance to Tamonji Temple told me about something I had never heard of .... that for half a year the capital of Japan was not Kyoto, but Fukuharakyo, in what is now Kobe.

Taira Kiyomori moved the child emperor Antoku and set up court in Fukuharakyo in 1180. It was also Kiyomori's retirement palace.

At that time Tamonji was located at the bottom of Mount Rokko, across the valley from its current location. The okunoin of the temple is still on top of Rokko.

Kiyomori chose Tamonji to be the protector temple of the new capital from the dangerous spiritualforces of the NE, a so-called Kimon.

To support the temple, he settled people from the north of Kyoto; Yase, Ohara, etc around the temple.

Interestingly, the temple is said to have been founded in the mid 7th century by an Indian monk, Hodo Sennen, who is associated with many places and legends around Japan.

It fell into disrepair, or was abandoned, until being rebuilt as a Shingon temple in 858.

An unusual tiger statue. The honzon of Tamonji is Bishamonten, and in Japan, he is associated with tigers. For the story see this post from a temple in Kyushu...

 

A few of the simple, "cute" rakan statues...... a whole post on them coming up next post....

During the rebellion against the Taira, an army allied with Yoshitsune Minamoto burned down the temple as they would not assist in their approach to fight the Taira.

In 1428 a bright light was seen emanating from the spot where Tamonji currently stands, and taken as an omen, Tamonji was moved here and rebuilt.

The current main hall dates to 1690.

The Mizuko Jizo seem to have been made by the same people who made many of the rakan here.

The honzons at Tamonji are the Bishamonten, a Kichijoten, and a standing Jizo. They are all secret buddhas, but it is possible that once a year they can be viewed.

One source says that in 1868 2 other temples in the area were combined with Tamonji.

Theer are several shrines within the grounds including an Atago Daigongen, a Hachiman, and an Aizen Inari.

In the structure pictured below used to be a sacred spring of some kind, though it is now dry.

Behind it a Fudo Myoo...

Since moving to this site thetemple seems to have been associated with shugendo, with the head family of the area said to have moved here from the Yoshino area.

Located just a few minutes from Shintetsurokko Station, the temple is not well known but well worth a visit, especially for the rakan which I will post on next....

I was also taken with the unique Onigawara featured in the last photos of this post.

I visited at the start of day 5 of my walk along the Kinki Fudo Myoo Pilgrimage. The previous post in the series was on the delightful Mudoji Temple, not too far away, that I visited the day before.

if you would like to subscribe by email just leave your email address in the comments below. It will not be published and made public. I post new content almost everyday, and send out an email about twice a month with short descriptions and links to the last ten posts.