Sunday, March 22, 2026

Rakan at Tamonji

 


Rakan,  sometimes called arhats, are said to be the disciples of the historical Buddha.


Statues of them are known for being quite expressive, with every one being distinct.


It is said that you cannot fail to see the features of  someone you know in at least one of them.


Sometimes, a full 500 Rakan statues will be on display, but more commonly, much fewer.


On the hillside approach to Tamonji Temple north of Kobe, I was surprised to find these pictured here...


One group were more expressive and somewhat larger than most of the others. They had some patina of green, indicating they were somewhat old.


Most seemed to be newer and of a smaller, standardized size and with fewer features.


I visited early in the morning and so the low sun and shadows helped make them appear more magical...


I have posted on rakan many times before, including Sennyoji Temple in Kyushu with a full 500, another 500 on an island mountaintop, and the quite well-known ones on Miyajima.


Please take time to enjoy the photos..... this is not tiktok.....










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Saturday, March 21, 2026

Kisshoin Tamonji Temple

 


This temple in the mountains north of downtown Kobe was a real revelation.


The sign at the entrance to Tamonji Temple told me about something I had never heard of .... that for half a year the capital of Japan was not Kyoto, but Fukuharakyo, in what is now Kobe.


Taira Kiyomori moved the child emperor Antoku and set up court in Fukuharakyo in 1180. It was also Kiyomori's retirement palace.


At that time Tamonji was located at the bottom of Mount Rokko, across the valley from its current location. The okunoin of the temple is still on top of Rokko.


Kiyomori chose Tamonji to be the protector temple of the new capital from the dangerous spiritualforces of the NE, a so-called Kimon.


To support the temple, he settled people from the north of Kyoto; Yase, Ohara, etc around the temple.


Interestingly, the temple is said to have been founded in the mid 7th century by an Indian monk, Hodo Sennen, who is associated with many places and legends around Japan.


It fell into disrepair, or was abandoned, until being rebuilt as a Shingon temple in 858.


An unusual tiger statue. The honzon of Tamonji is Bishamonten, and in Japan, he is associated with tigers. For the story see this post from a temple in Kyushu...
 

A few of the simple, "cute" rakan statues...... a whole post on them coming up next post....


During the rebellion against the Taira, an army allied with Yoshitsune Minamoto burned down the temple as they would not assist in their approach to fight the Taira.


In 1428 a bright light was seen emanating from the spot where Tamonji currently stands, and taken as an omen, Tamonji was moved here and rebuilt.


The current main hall dates to 1690.


The Mizuko Jizo seem to have been made by the same people who made many of the rakan here.


The honzons at Tamonji are the Bishamonten, a Kichijoten, and a standing Jizo. They are all secret buddhas, but it is possible that once a year they can be viewed.


One source says that in 1868 2 other temples in the area were combined with Tamonji.


Theer are several shrines within the grounds including an Atago Daigongen, a Hachiman, and an Aizen Inari.


In the structure pictured below used to be a sacred spring of some kind, though it is now dry.


Behind it a Fudo Myoo...


Since moving to this site thetemple seems to have been associated with shugendo, with the head family of the area said to have moved here from the Yoshino area.


Located just a few minutes from Shintetsurokko Station, the temple is not well known but well worth a visit, especially for the rakan which I will post on next....


I was also taken with the unique Onigawara featured in the last photos of this post.





I visited at the start of day 5 of my walk along the Kinki Fudo Myoo Pilgrimage. The previous post in the series was on the delightful Mudoji Temple, not too far away, that I visited the day before.


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Friday, March 20, 2026

Chichi Sugi... the Boob Cedar


Chichi Sugi, which translates as Boob Cedar is an 800 year old tree on the slopes of Mount Daimanji on Dogo, the biggest of the Oki Islands in the Japan Sea off the coast of Shimane.


It is an Urasugi, a species that grows on the Japan Sea side of the main Japanese island of Honshu.


Heavy snowfall causes the trees to produce stronger lateral branches that then grow vertically.


The rounded protuberances growing down from the branches... which is the origin of its nickname "boob", are believed to help absorb moisture from the air.


The other two species of sugi that grow in Japan are the Omotesugi which grows over the rest of Honshu and Shikoku, and the Yakusgi in southern Kyushu.


Cold air rising from the gaps between the big rocks that form the slope meets warm air from the sea, and mean that the area is often misty and foggy which adds to the otherworldly atmosphere.


As with many old, large, or unusual trees in Japan, it is marked as sacred by a shimenawa wrapped around it and a torii gate in front.





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