Thursday, February 12, 2026

Taimasan the Hemp Shrine

 


Mount Taima, 599 meters above sea level, is the highest mountain on the coast between Hamada and Misumi in Shimane.


About halfway up the narrow mountain road from the sea to the shrine close to the top of the mountain,  a giant torii straddles the road.


The miuntain was originally named Futagoyama, but the name was changed by imperial decree in 888 following a "divine revelation". I cant find out anuthing about the revelation except that since the start of the 8th century monks had been living on the mountain. In 889 the kami from Oasahiko Shrine in Tokushima was transferred here and the branch shrine established.


Oasahiko Shrine was originally established by the Imbe Clan, sent to Shikoku to find good land for growing hemp. The hemp plant motif is all over the shrine here at Taimasan, but cannot be seen at Oasahiko Shrine.


There is a local legend of the Imbe Clan moving into the area of Mount Taima and driving out the Ono Clan. According to the story they moved down the coast to the mountain where Susa is in Yamaguchi, the next landmark high mountain down the coast. On the slopes of Mount Taima is an area of large boulders. They were thrown here by a giant on the mountain near Susa. According to the legend, an agreement was reached between the Imbe and the Ono and they returned to the area, but the Imbe kept Mount Taima. One source suggests that the Yamato sent the Imbe into Iwami to help contain  Izumo.


The original kami of the shrine were Oasahiko, Sarutahiko, Amahiwashi, and Zao Gongen.


Several temples were established around the shrine and in the mid 10th century another series of kami were enshrined here; Kumano Gongen, Sanno Gongen, Hakusan Gongen, and Hashiryu Gongen. As can be inferred by this list, Taimasan became a major Shugendo site.


In the early 16th century the shrine-temple complex was destroyed  during the war between the Amago and Ouchi clans. It was rebuilt, and a scroll painting dated to the late 16th century depicts it as a very large complex of shrines and temples with the nickname of Koyasan of the West, a nickname it shared with numerous other sites in western Japan.


In 1836, a major landslide destroyed the shrine and temple, and only the shrine was rebuilt in 1844, along with part of the temple.


In 1872, everything was again destroyed, this time by the Hamada Earthquake. Due to the anti-Buddhist movement, only the shrine was rebuilt.


Today, the shrine stands alone in the middle of the forest. The old temple garden has been restored and is well worth a visit. On the top of the mountain among all the antennae is an observation tower with fantasticviews.... I will cover that next


Hemp has a long and glorious history in Japan, though since it was banned by MacArthur in 1948 it has become very demonized and many Japanese have no idea of its history.


It has been cultivated here long before the Yamato immigrated here. Its main use was its fibre used for many products but mainly for clothing.


It continues to be used for some Shinto implements and there are dozens of small, licensed farms that legally produce it for this purpose,including use by the Emperor.


It is also used in a herb and spice mix called shichimi. One of my favorite Japanese patterns found on many fabrics and other products is Asa no Ha, a hexagonal pattern associated with good luck.


Some years ago we went to a hemp festival at a farm in Tottori. This post has details, though unfortunately no photos. The farm has since been closed down for growing the smokable version.


I have been unable to find out anything about hemp production in the area around Mount Taima, but since the region was not so well suited for rice production, I would think there would have been a lot of it.


After the introduction of cotton in the late 19th century, hemp production declined somewhat, but it remained an important crop, especially during the war.




The previous post in this series on Mount Taima was on the restored garden of the former Sonshoji Temple.


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Tuesday, February 10, 2026

Taisho Cave

 


After descending from the Akiyoshidai plateau, I visited another of the 400 caves that extend underneath it.


The first hundred meters or so of the cave was used in earlier times by local people to hide their livestock during times of war and banditry and was known as Ushikakunodo, or "cow hiding hole".


In 1921, early Taisho Period, the deeper reaches of the cave were first explored and so it was named Taishodo.


The cave consists of a series of chambers arranged vertically.


The public section covers about a kilometer, and while not as dramatic as Akiyoshido, the fact that I was able to explore alone was a big plus.


In 1970 a tunnel was made connecting the upper level to the outside so that visitors can exit without having to return the way they came.


Taisho Cave is a National Natural Monument as well as being part of the Mine Akiyoshidai Geopark.


The five levels of the cave system are named with the lowest being Hell, and the highest being Heaven. many of the festures of the cave are also named, including Cow Hideout, Niomon Gate, Yoromeki Passage, Otowa Falls, Child-rearing Kannon, Pine Trees in the Snow, Lion Rock, Lotus Pond, Cave Pool, Romance Passage, Jellyfish Rock, and Okunoin.


There is an infrequent bus service to and from Hagi.


The previous post in this series on day 28 of my walk along the Chugoku Pilgrimage was on the early morning walk across the Akiyoshidai Plateau to get to the cave.


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Monday, February 9, 2026

Taisha Fishing Port

 


After passing by Inasa Beach and the Benten island/shrine, I come to the fishing port of Taisha Town.


I have passed by several small fishing hatbours, but this is the first port since leaving Tagi yesterday morning. The distinction, for me at least, between harbour and port is that a fishing port will have an ice machine and a Japan Fisheries office


Like most Japanese fishing harbours, this one is also constructed out of millions of tons of concrete, not just making piers, but breakwaters of tetrapods and massive offshore breakwaters "protecting" the harbour.


Over the years of traveling the coast of Shimane, I have only ever seen two boats that were not fishing boats, cargo boats, or Coast Guard boats.... my friend's yacht in Tagi, and a yacht here in Taisha.



The route along the coast now sweeps up towards the cape at Hinomisaki.


The previous post in this series on the 6th leg of my deep exploration of the Sea of Japan coastline was on Inasa Beach and the Izumo myths associated with it.


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Saturday, February 7, 2026

A Walk Across Akiyoshidai at Sunrise

 


Day 28 of my walk along the Chugoku Kannon Pilgrimage began high on the Akiyoshidai Plateau, a karst, treeless landscape dotted with limestone pinnacles.


I needed to reach Hagi today, on the Sea of Japan coast, and being mid-winter the days were short so I headed off before sunrise.


The first part of the walk was across the plateau, mostly on some of the many footpaths that criss-cross the plateau.


It is great to have such a long stretch of walking off-road.


The different junctions on the paths are sometimes confusing and not well signed, but it is not so difficult to match the map to the surroundings....


I did not pass another walker in the several hours it took to reach the edge of the plateau and descend into the more normal landscape....


For more details about Akiyoshidai, please see the previous post...


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