Monday, April 20, 2026

Unpenji Temple 66 Shikoku Ohenro Pilgrimage

 


I spent the night at a minshuku at the base of Mount Unpenji. Overnight, there had been a heavy snowfall. 


I set off at first light, before the sun, as I had about 650 meters to climb to reach the temple. The trail was virgin. Not a single footstep had been made in the 6 to 12 inches of powdery snow.


After about an hour of climbing I was overtaken by a couple of younger guys who had been eating breakfast when I left the minshuku. Not only younger, but they were only carrying small day packs, so I watched them hurtle up the mountain and sat and had a cigarette break.


Unpenji Temple, the 66th of the pilgrimage is the highest of the temples at about 900 meters altitude.


Thye Niomon is very new, but not the Nio, although I can't find a date for them.


The temples origins begin with Kobo Daishi who climbed the mountain as a you man. He came back later and established the temple.


On his third visit he carved the honzen statue.


It became a well-supported temple with many branch temples on the mountain and became known as the Koya of Shikoku.


However, in the 11th century a fire completely destroyed the temple.


The temple was restored later and the new honzon, a seated 1000-armed Kannon, and a Bishamonten statue were carved.


The great warlord Motochika Chosokabe visited the temple and spoke with the priest about his plan to rule over all of Shikoku. I am guessing that therefore, Unpenji was one of the few temples in Shikoku he didn't destroy.


Most of the buildings seem to be fairly new.


I wish I had had more time to explore, as there are some fine statues inside.


The temple became much more accessible in 1989 when the Unpenji Ropeway was built.


There is actually quite a lot to see at the temple and it has extensive grounds. It is well known for Autumn colours, but for me at least, the most impressive feature was the 500 life-size statues of the Rakan, or Arhats. I gave them their own post here.


Shrine to Gosha Daigongen, the protective kami of the temple.






The previous temple I stopped at was the Bangai Temple Tsubaki-do, down below. Temple 65, Sankakuji was the previous main temple, and the previous post was on the awesome Rakan statues here at Unpenji


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Saturday, April 18, 2026

The 500 Rakan at Unpenji Temple

 


A combination of snow and the low, golden sunlight made these pics of Rakan a little special.


Unpenji Temple straddles the border of Tokushima and Kagawa Prefectures on Shikoku.


Sitting atop Mount Unpenji, it is temple 66 of the famous 88 temple pilgrimage of Shikoku.


At 900 meters altitude, it is the highest of all the 88 temples.


The rakan statues are life-size, and spread over quite a wide area. I do not know for sure if they have the full 500.


I wish I had spent more time exploring and photographing them, but I was bushed from the climb.


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Friday, April 17, 2026

Passing by Masuda

 


After exploring the abandoned Love Hotel, I carried on along the beach road towards Masuda.


I stopped in and had a coffee at a beach cafe. Last time I stopped here, it was a ramshackle place; now all modern and brand-spanking-new.


Looking up the coast towards where I will be tomorrow. The high point on the left is Mount Taima, somwhere I recently posted on. here a delightful garden,  and here, the shrine to hemp.


The sole wind generator has been there for ages, right at the mouth of the Takatsu River....


Not sure what this plant is called in Japanese.....but I know it as Ice Plant...


The long stretch of beach continues on towards Masuda,


Lots and lots of concrete used in various ways to "protect" the coast...


I became fascinated by the patterns made by the waves against such brutal geometry.





Once on the outskirts of Masuda I passed by two small Inari shrines.


They were both company shrines. Many businesses have their own private shrines for success in business, and Inari seems to be the kami of choice, at least here in Masuda.



Downtown Masuda comes into view. I carry straight on up the coast and do not head into the town.


First I cross the Takatsu River, and then the smaller Masuda River....


The previous post was on the abandoned Love Hotel.


if you would like to subscribe by email just leave your email address in the comments below. It will not be published and made public. I post new content almost everyday, and send out an email about twice a month with short descriptions and links to the last ten posts.