Saturday, August 1, 2026

Shodoshima Temple 55 & 56, and Into Tonosho

 


After leaving the giant Juniper tree at Hoshoinji, I pass a small Inari shrine on the way to the next little temple. Number 55, Kannon-do.


The way is slightly on the hillside so views of Tonosho and the sea and islands beyond are plentiful.


Kannon-do was a small building and enshrined Bato Kannon, the Horse-head Kannon. It is the only pilgrimage temple to do so.


In earlier times, people would come here to pray for their livestock.


Temple 56 is close by, and slightly higher on the hillside, so the views become wider..


Temple 56, Gyoja-do, has En no Gyoja as its honzon, the only pilgrimage temple here to do so.


It seems that for most pilgrims this is the final temple, the finishing point. Most people arrive in Tonosho, by far the biggest town on the island, and then head clockwise around the island.


I chose to start in the SE of the island and so pretty much followed the traditional numbering system.


Other than a busride from the port on my first day, this was the first time I was seeing Tonosho.


The legendary origin of the Gyojado lies in the huge boulder behind the temple.


According to the legend Kobo Daishi was walking here with a group of pilgrimas and a huge boulder came rolling down the hillside. Everyone panicked but Kobo Daishikept walking and praying and the rock came to an abrupt stop. The pilgrims decided to establish the Gyojado here.


Coming down into Tomosho the vermillion pagoda of Saiko-ji is clearly visible.


The final photo of the post is looking back beyond the last two temples to Tamamitsu Shrine.


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Thursday, July 30, 2026

Reflecting Paddies Around Mount Sanbe

 


I awake long before the sun at my perch overlooking the reservoir behind Sanbe Dam. I get up, stuff my bag into my pack, visit the public toilets for ablutions, grab a cold drink from the vending machine, and set off.


From here, there is more climbing until I get closer to Mount Sanbe, and I want to do as much of it as possible before the day warms up too much.


I am treated to a lovely surise....






Close to where the road cuts off and heads up to the facilities at the base of the mountain, the road tops out and gratefully, a slow descent begins


Since starting my walk yesterday morning, I have not passed by a single convenience store.


It's May 1st, 2015, around the time that Japanese now call Golden Week for the cluster of national holidays.


It's become one of my favorite times of the year to go walking in the real countryside of Japan, not the rice paddies dotted with factories and criss-crossed by Shinkansen lines and expressways that many see as "rural Japan", rather the mountain valleys that comprise 60% of the country.


It's a good time to sleep out..... hotels are outrageously expensive during Golden Week....


Mostly its for the rice paddies that have all been flooded, and if planted already, the rice seedlings are still small...... wonderful reflections....


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Wednesday, July 29, 2026

One Thousand Two Hundred Rakan

 


Rakan, or Arhats, usually come in groups of 500.


Said to be the disciples of the Buddha, many temples will have a full 500 statues, but many more will have a much smaller number.


Otagi Nembutsuji, a temple outside the main part of Arashiyama near Kyoto has an amzing 1200 of them.


Even more amazing is that they were only started to be made in 1981, part of something called the Showa Rakan Carving Project.


The head priest was a sculptor, and he encouraged visitors to the temple to carve small, simple, rakan statues.


He encouraged people to freely express themselves in the carving, and so the vast majority of the carvings are quite different from each other.


What is also surprising is how quickly moss and lichen begin to grow on the statues, thanks to Japans wet climate.


Next I will post some close-up portraits of some of the most distinctive rakan.


If you are using a computer to view this you can simply click on the "rakan" tag at the bottom of the post.


If you are using a phone, tough, because many features like that are not available....
















If you would like to subscribe by email, just leave your email address in the comments below. It will not be published or made public. I post new content almost every day, and send out an email about twice a month with short descriptions and links to the last ten posts.