Sunday, June 21, 2026

Majima Island. Westernmost point of the 35th Parallel & Abandoned Benten Shrine

 


Majima Island is an outcropping on the coast between Tsunozu and Waki in Gotsu. It may have been a tiny island at some point, but now it is connected to the land by a sandy hill.


There are a few tiny fishing boats on the beach, but no harbour,


Steps lead up to a first torii with a Jizo statue nearby.


When I first visited Majima it had a Benten shrine on top, but now no maps show a shrine at all, leading me to believe it has been disestablished.


After the first torii sand dunes lead to the path to the "island" itself.


After a narrow ridge connecting to the island some steep steps lead to the top. Erosion has seriously undercut the concrete steps.


A second torii stands near the top, though it has been missing some of its parts  for as long as I have been here.


A pair of ceramic komainu stand guard.


In the last day or so I have come across three different sets of ceramic komainu, all in completely different styles. First there was the pair at Ankoku Temple, then the pair at Kantake Shrine, and now these.

The views from on top are fantastic, looking back down the coast past Tsunozu, Ninomiya, & Uyagawa.


Looking up the coast past Waki, Kakushi, then then "downtown" Gotsu with the huge paper factory at the mouth of the Gonokawa River and then past Asari with the mountains of Iwami Ginzan visible...


A sign on the coast road shows that  Majima id the westernmost point on Honshu of the 35th Parallel .


The 35th Parallel pretty much cuts Hinshu in half and passes from south of Tokyo and then south of Kyoto before leaving Japan at this point.


This is also the spot where local fishermen rescued a couple of hundred Russian sailors from a sinking ship during the Russo-Japanese War of 1905. The story can be found in this old post of mine.



The previous post was on three shrines I visited yesterday.


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Saturday, June 20, 2026

Fujishiro Toge... the Final Pass

 


The final leg of the day's walk along the Kiiji route of the Kumano Kodo from Yuasa to Kainan was over the Fujishirotoge Pass.


It had been a thoroughly enjoyable day, and one of my favorite sections of the numerous Kumano Kodo trails I had walked in the previous week or so....


After leaving Fukusho-ji temple and its glorious display of cherry blossoms, the route heads uphill and offers a view back down on Shimotsu.


Jizobu-ji temple is located at the foot of the steepest part of the trail over the pass. The current building dates to the early 16th century.


The trail now enters a bamboo forest.....


Not exactly sure what this is.... I think it is a rock that the local daimyo thought looked like a giant inkstone and so had a stonecarver "enhance" it....


The bamboo forest was delightful....


Not manicured like the famous bamboo forest in Arashiyama, but better for not being so....


After the pass Kainan comes into view.....


Quite an industrial port, ENEOS has an oil terminal here...


Kainan is the start of the large urban area that spreads out from Wakayama City...







The previous post was on Fukushoji Temple.....


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Friday, June 19, 2026

3 Shrines Around the Iwami Kokubunji Sites

 


The Iwami Kokubinji and Kokubunniji (nunnery) were located on the high ground just up the coast from Shimoko. Neither still exist, but the area is named Kokubu-cho.


The first shrine I visited was the Otoshi Shrine, which is, I think, the main shrine for Shimoko.


It is up a long flight of steps and on the way up offers views over Shimoko.


The main kami is Otoshi, a son of Susano connected with growing rice and also with immigrant clans from Korea. There are several more Otosshi shrines in the towns further up the coast...


Other than that I can find no history or info on secondary kami.....


A walk east toward the main Route 9 brings me to the guardian shrine of the Kokubunji, Kokubunji Kantake Shrine.


It was moved here when the Kokubunji was moved here. I had always presumed that Shimoko was the capital of Iwami all along, but apparently it was originally further up the coast in the Nima area. It was moved here in the early 9th century I think. I must find out why.


The most striking thing for me at the shrine was the pair of ceramic komainu. Unlike any I have seen before, they are quite cat-like.


The main kami of the shrine is Raijin, the Thunder God. I have always considered Raijin, and Fujin the Wind God, to be primarily Buddhist, as they are often depicted in paintings and sculptures at temples.


However, in Shinto mythology Raijin is equated with Ikazuchi, created out of the rotting corpse of Izanami. Ikazuchi is connected to the Kamo shrines that preceded the establishment of Kyoto.


Due to its importance and connection to the provincial capital, the shrine is listed in the Engi Shiki. Also enshrined is Omoto, the local land-goddess found everywhere in Iwami, and also Ebisu.


After passing the site of the former monastery, I head to Route 9, the old San-in Do that ran from Kyoto to Yamaguchi. The original Sanindo turns off from the new Route 9 and I follow it into Kushiro.


Kushiro Shrine enshrines Kushiroame no Koketsuhiko no mikoto, the son of Ama no Tarashihikokunioshihito no mikoto, the ancestor of the Kushiro Clan who settled the coast of Iwami.


More of that story can be found in this earlier post from down in Masuda.


It is also important enough to be listed in the Engi Shiki.


In the early 20th century with the shrine merger programme, the village Otoshi Shrine was merged with it.


In the grounds are an Omoto Shrine and an Ebisu Shrine.


New growth on a Sago Palm....


The Ebisu Shrine....


I carry on up the coast following the old San-in Do for a while. Abandoned properties are numerous.


The previous post in this series was on two shrines in Shimoko...


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