Yakumo Fuketsu Wind Cave

 

If you ask a Japanese person if Japanese people eat pheasant, you will almost certainly get an emphatic "absolutely not". However, just outside Susa Shrine in the mountains of Izumo, there used to be a restaurant specializing in pheasant dishes. Modern Japanese have little knowledge of historical diets in Japan. If it walks, crawls, swims, or flies, then the Japanese people used to eat it. Quite like pheasant myself, but haven't eaten it in Japan, though I sometimes see and hear one in my garden and nearby rice paddies.

After leaving Susa Shrine, I head west further into the mountains towards the next pilgrimage temple on the Chugoku 33 Kannoin Pilgrimage.

I briefly visited Fukusenbo, a Jodo Shinshu temple.

I have no idea what the standing and horizontal carvings are about....

I do enjoy wooden statues that have weathered and eroded and reveal another aspect of their personality.....

Immediately adjacent to the temple was the reason for stopping, the title of todays blog post, the Yakumo Fuketsu Wind Cave.

In English, the term for such a geological feature is a blowing cave, and in essence it is a type of natural air-conditioning.

What happens is that in the winter cold air travels into the mountain through gaps in the rocks and this cools the rocks in the interior. In the summer air passing over the cold rocks escapes at places like here. If you descend two levels in the cave the temperature is 5 degrees celsius on the hottest summer day. Traditionally the spaces were used as cold storage for various crops, but now it is for tourists to cool off.

Even the exterior "caves" have a temperature noticeably cooler.

From here I headed deeper into the mountains.

Thatched houses and semi-abandoned shrines....the interior of Shimane....

The road keeps climbing and settlements disappear and only forest on either side of the road..

Eventually I cross a pass and start to descend.....

Isolated farmhouses start to appear and then settlements come into view...

This is the landscape of most of the land area of Japan...

It has been 4 days of walking since the last temple on this pilgrimage, Tada-ji in Hamada....

The previous post in this series on Day 40 of my Chugoku Pilgrimage walk was on the interesting Susa Shrine.

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Sasaguri Temples 53 & 55 Kirinokidani Amida-do & Dainichi-do, and Koyasukannon

 

I catch a glimpse of the huge reclining Buddha on the other side of the valley, about 500 meters away.

The small mountain valley I am entering is called Kirinokidani, so the neighbourhood has that name.

The first stop is number 53 on the pilgrimage, an Amida Hall. Sometimes it goes by the name Enmyoji, the 53rd temple on the Shikoku Pilgrimage.

Like many of these small "temples" in Sasaguri, the original small, stone honzon is on the altar with a modern, gilded honzon.

As well as a Daishi-do, there is a 13 Buddhas hall, as well as numerous statues in the grounds.

From the Amida Hall a set of metal stairs heads up to a non-pilgrimage temple, Koyasukannon

A branch of Anjoji Temple in southern Nara, Koyasu Kannon is a deity for safe-childbirth and fertility.

Here, the original feature is the hundreds of dolls on display in the main hall. I am guessing these are from mothers who have experienced safe childbirth.

From here it is a very short walk to the Dainichi-do, temple 55 of the pilgrimage...

The honzon here is a Daitsuchisho Nyorai, the Great Penetrating Wisdom Buddha, who, if I understand correctly, taught the historical Buddha.

It is the only temple on the pilgrimage with this Buddha.

I am running out of things to say about this pilgrimage.... there is just so much to see in a short distance.... approaching the end of the second day I have already visited about 50 temples, including some not part of the pilgrimage, but passed along the route. The number of statues is uncountable... must be in the thousands by now.....

Ther are a few Fudo statues at these two temples, but actually fewer than the other...

The previous post was on the previous two temples in the Tanoura area....

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Susa Shrine

 

May 5th, 2015, day 40 of my walk along the Chugoku Kannon Pilgrimage. A short walk from my nights campsite I arrive at Susa Shrine.

This is the head shrine of a large network of Susa shrines nationwide. I know I have come across many Susa shrines in my walks around western Japan, but I am not sure how common they are in the east.

There is a small Amaterasu shrine facing the main shrine.

The shrine was originally located a little to the north but was moved to its current location probably in the 9th century.

It ios mentioned in the Izumo Fudoki and so is very ancient. It is also listed in the Engi Shiki.

The main shrine enshrines Susano, but also his wife, Kushinada, and her parents, Ashinazuchi, and Tenazuchi.

Behind the main hall is a Miho Shrine, and to the east and west of the main hall are shrines enshrining various offspring of Susanoo, so the shrine is unusual in being surrounded by shrines in the 4 directions.

The current main hall dates to 1861.

The shrine is said to have 7 special sights, including a huge sugi tree.

Most unusual, perhaps, is the salt well. It is said that when the sea is at high tide the water from the spring is seawater, however, sciebtists have dispelled that story and explin the saltiness by natural causes.

Outside the grounds, but on the approach to the shrine, are another two shrines, an Itsukushima Shrine enshring the three munakata princesses, daughters of Susanoo, and a Suga Shrine, another shrine enshrining Susanoo that has many branches around Japan.

The honden was rebuilt by Harhisa Amago in 1554, and is relatively large, but n 14th cetury documents it was 4 times the size.

The honden has undergone periodic repairs and renovation about every 30 years.

A renovation is currently taking place.

The shrine is considered a "power spot" and is quite popular, though being off the beaten track and not near a railway it is relatively quiet.

The previous post was on the previous afternoons walk.

If you would like to subscribe by email, just leave your email address in the comments below. It will not be published and made public. I post new content almost everyday, and send out an email about twice a month with short descriptions and links to the last ten posts.