Showing posts with label nio. Show all posts
Showing posts with label nio. Show all posts

Friday, July 11, 2025

Yokomineji Temple 60 Shikoku Ohenro Pilgrimage

 


At 745 meters above sea level, Yokomineji, temple 60, is the highest of the pilgrimage temples in Ehime, and the second highest of all the 88 pilgrimage temples.


I visited in February about 11 years ago and in the autumn there had been a major storm that severely damaged the trail up the mountain.


On the lowest slopes of Mount Ishizuchi, Yokomineji is one of the Henro Korogashi.... hard to reach temples, and with the path blocked by storm debris it was even more so ......


Said to have been founded by famed and legendary founder of Shugendo, En no Gyoja, in 651.


Gyoki, nd then a century later Kobo Daishi, also visited.


Almost to the shrine you pass the Furubo Jizo-do. There used to be a small settlement in the area as during the Edo period this was a well travelled road.


Yokomineji has quite a complex history not made easier by the reconfiguring of the Jaoanese religious landscape in the latter half of the 19th century.


When Enno Gyoja founded it he carved a statue of Zao Gongen, the main deity of what is now Shugendo. Later when Kobo Daishi came he carved a Dainichi statue and made it the "main image".


What seems certain is that it was a syncretic site with both kami and Buddhist elements. A report from the 17th century writes of a Zao Gongen main shrine, and a Kaisan-do dedicated to Sekisen, and a hall dedicated to Dainichi and Kobo Daishi.


In early Meiji all the Buddhist elements were removed and a new temple hall built near the Niomonto house them. This was called Omineji.


What was Yokomineji Temple became a branch shrine of Ishizuchi Shrine and a temple at the base of the mountain became the 60th pilgrimage temple.


By 1909 it was reinstated as Yokomineji Temple, though the observant notice that the architecture remains shrine-style.


The statue a few photos above is a Hoshiku Daishi. Holding a sword, I believe this represents Kobo Daishi performing a star ritual when he visited here. It stands on the site of the former Kaisan-do.


I did not spend much time exploring as it was very cold and there didn't seem to be anyone around. I certainly saw no other pilgrimas.


As I was about to leave it started snowing. 


On the way down I stopped in at Tsumashiro Daimyojin Shrine.


The guardian deity of the temple, many of the crude torii had rotted and collapsed.


The previous temple on the pilgrimage was Koryuji, the 10th bangai temple.


Saturday, July 5, 2025

Osake Shrine

 


Osake Shrine is a big, ancient shrine on the coast of Hyogo near to Ako.


The main kami is the spirit of Hata no Kawakatsu, whose grave is on the sacred uninhabited island just offshore.


The Hata were an intriguing immigrant clan who have unknown but variously theorized roots. Some say they were descendants of a Chinese emperor. Others say they were a "lost" tribe of Israel. Some say they came to Japan from paekche in Korea, others say Sila. Some say they spent time in Izumo before moving to Yamato.


Like other immigrant clans at the time they settled near what is now Kyoto and quite a few important sites are attributed to them, including most famously Fushimi Inari Shrine, but also Matsuo Taisha. Kawakatsu no Hata was a known associate of Shotoku Taishi and is said to have had much influence over the founding and construction of Shitennoji Temple.


One noteworthy point about Osake Shrine is that along with the shitno zuijin guardians there is also a pair of Buddhist Nio.


Also noteworthy are the large number of Ema paintings, especially those of boats. One dated to 1722 is considered the oldest and most valuable in Japan.


Not on display, the shrine owns a 1,300 year old mask, said to have been either given to Kawakatsu by Shotoku Taishi or carved by Kawakatsu himself.


Kawakatsu is said to be the founder of sarugaku, and Zeami and many other notable figures from ancient theatre styles claim to be his descendants.


Following the death of Shotoku Taishi Kawakatsu set sail and ended up in this area and spent some time developing the land. Some say he was exiled, some say he left to avoid the political violence that was commonplace in the capital at that time.


When he died a few years later his tomb was made on Ikushima just offshore and the locals built the shrine and enshrined him.


The Sakoshi Boat Festival takes place every October and is considered one of the Three Great Boat Festivals of the Inland Sea along with the Osaka Tenjin Festival and the Kangen Festival at Miyajima.


One of the traditional boats used in the festival is on display in the shrine grounds.


Most of the current buildings at the shrine date back to the 18th century.


Within the shrine grounds are numerous secondary shrines, including a Shingu Shrine to Shotoku Taishi, a Sumiyoshi Shrine and a Kotohira Shrine, both shrines connected with safety at sea.


There is also an Inari Shrine, a Tenmangu, an Ebisu Shrine and an Awashima Shrine.


There are said to be 28 branch shrines of Osake Shrine in the area, indicating its importance locally.


The island is visited by the boast during the festival, but otherwise is still off-limits to everyone, so the woodland on the island is completely natural and is a National Natural Monument.


Though not as grand, I recommend a local sea festival from my local area.


The previous post in this series on the Ako area was on Fumonji Temple and its beautiful Kannon statue.


Sunday, June 22, 2025

Saigoku-ji Extra Temple on the Chugoku Kannon Pilgrimage

 


As well as the main 33 temples, the Chugoku Kannon Pilgrimage also has, like many pilgrimages, "extra" temples on the route not part of the 33.


In Onomichi, Saigokuji is one such temple. The previous example was Tanjoji Temple in Okayama.


Saigokuji is a huge complex, approached by a long road lined with cherry trees so very spectacular in season.


The Niomon dates back to 1648 and has a fine pair of Nio guardians.


A giant pair of straw sandals measuring more than 2 meters hang there and are the symbol of the temple.


From the Niomon 108 steps lead up to the main temple.


The temple claims to have been founded by Gyoki in the early 8th century.


Most of the temple burned down in 1066 but was restored under the orders of Emperor Shirakawa.


He made it an Imperial temple and it became the largest temple complex in the Sanyo Region with over 100 branch temples.


It remains the largest temple in Onomichi.


The temple was burned down again in the late 14th century. The current Kondo, Golden Hall was rebuilt in 1386 and is an Important Cultural Property.


The pagoda was rebuilt in 1429 and is also an Important Cultural Property.


The Jibutsu Hall, above, has an entry fee to enter, so not sure what is on display.


The main hall is free to enter.


The honzon is a Yakushi Nyorai. It is an Important Cultural Property, but is a Secret Buddha, so cannot be seen.


There is a "stand-in" in front of the curtain that hides the shrine holding the honzon.


As well as being on the Chugoku Kannon Pilgrimage, Saigokuji is also on the Sanyo Flower Temple Pilgrimage, The Chugoku Yakushi Pilgrimage, and the Bingo Kannon Pilgrimage.


Other halls within the complex are the Fudo-do, Bishamon-do, Daishi-do, and a Miroku-do.


The previous post in this series on day 10 of my walk along the Chugoku Kannon Pilgrimage was on the nearby Jodo-ji Temple complex.