Fukuzenji Temple & The Most Beautiful View

 

Fukuzenji is unusual in that, unlike almost all the temples of Tomonoura, which are clustered in one area along the town's edge, Fukuzenji is situated right in the middle of the town.

Like many of the other temples, Fukuzenji was used to accommodate visiting Korean dignitaries on their journey to the Japanese capital.

In 1711 one envoy claimed that the view from the temple was the best scenic view east of Korea and this has been often translated to mean the best view in Japan.

However, when the next delegation visited in 1748 they were told to use another temple as Fukuzenji had fallen somewhat into disrepair. The Koreans were indignant and stayed on their boats overnight in protest.

In 1763 when the next Korean mission arrived their were put up once again at Fukuzenji.

It was a Korean who named the reception hall Taichoro, the name it retains to today.

The Taichoro is also where Sakamoto Ryoma had a meeting.

Fukuzenji is a Shingon sect temple and is believed to have been founded around 950, but records are sketchy.

The main altar is quite colourful and has a Thousand-armed Kannon as honzon.

I was, of course, rather partial to the couple of Fudo's as well as the Aizen Myoo.

The main view from the temple is of Bentenjima Island with its Benzaiten Fukujudo, a small Buddhist hall on the island to Benzaiten, but also with a Torii indicating Benten's syncretic nature.

Behind it is Sensui Island and then the Inland Sea

The previous post was on the harbour of the old port of Tomonoura.

Jobutsuji Temple 3 Kyushu Fudo Myoo Pilgrimage

 

Jobutsuji, temple number three of the Kyushu Fudo Myoo Pilgrimage, is quite close to Monjusenji, temple number four, high in the mountains at the centre of the Kunuisaki Peninsula in Oita.

Like most of the older temples and shrines in the area it is guarded by stone Nio guardians.

It is said to have been founded in 718 by the legendary monk Ninmon who founded the 28 temples of the Rokugo Manzan shugendo system, so its not surprising that Jobutsuiji is on the Rokugo Manzan pilgrimage also.

Outwardly the temple appears like many smallish, rura; temples, and the architecture is nothing special, however it is home to an unusual and unique festival.

Shujo Onie is held on the Lunar New Year and used to be performed at twenty temples around the peninsula, but now only at 3. Tennenji Temple which I visited a few days earlier on this pilgrimage, and nearby Iwatoji Temple which holds the festival on alternate years with Jobutsuji.

I did not visit Iwatoji on this trip, but was lucky enough to see Shujo Onie a few years earlier there. The post on it has a few videos of the amazing torch procession that precedes the demon dance;

This was day 4 of my walk around Kunisaki at the start of the Kyushu Fudo Myoo Pilgrimage and I was mostly following the trail that roughly follows the old shugendo pilgrinage route and so was doing the 7 Fudo Myo temples here in approximately reverse order.

The previous post in this series was on Monjusenji Temple 4 of the Kyushu Fudo Pilgrimage

Fukushoji Temple 7 Shikoku Fudo Myoo Pilgrimage

 

I made a mistake at Fukushoji. Many sites list it as the 7th temple of the Shikoku Fudo Myoo Pilgrimage, however the real 7th temple is Kamo Fudoin, the okunoin of Fukushoji, located about 2k up the mountain.

Fukushoji does have a Fudo statue and altar although it is for "worshipping from afar" for those not willing or able to climb the trail to Fudoin.

The temple is said to have been founded by Kobo Daishi in 828 and was originally called Iwaya-ji. He is said to have carved the Fudo in a single night.

Curiously it is enshrined in "shinto" style, with photos showing a honden type structure behind the main hall. No information on why this is. The temple was quite large in its heyday but suffered under the Chosokabe campaign.

The previous post in this series was temple number 6, Fudoin which I had visited a little earlier in the day.

Rendaiji Temple 6 Chugoku Kannon Pilgrimage

 

Rendaiji, the 6th temple on the Chugoku Kannon Pilgrimage, is a large complex located high on Mount Yuga in the Kojima area south of Kurashiki and Okayama.

It was a syncretic site known as Yuga Daigongen until modern times but has now split into Rendaiji Temple nd Yuga Shrine, though they both occupy the same site.

In the Heian Period it was one of three sites that were called New Kumano, this site being the equivalent of Nachi Taisha.

Long a site of pilgrimage, the approach to the shrine-temple complex has a temple town with long street lined with souvenir shops.

I arrived by following the old pilgrimage trail from the north and the first things I saw were the statues of the Seven Lucky Gods. The tradition here is that you write your prayer or wish on a white stone and leave on the statue.

Also in this area was a newish Fudo statue, but much more of Fudo is to come......

In one hall is this striking statue of Dakiniten, a Buddhist  goddess with Hindi roots that has become synonomous with Inari in Japan. Two great Dakiniten temples are commonly known as Inari, Toyokawa Inari in Aichi, and Saijo Inari near here in Okayama.

Dakiniten is often associated with foxes and sometimes depicted riding a white fox. The association with foxes seems to be behind much of the association of Dakiniten with Inari.

In this part of the temple is also this magnificent statue of Fudo Myoo, the biggest wooden Fudo in all of Japan, and possibly the world.

It was unveiled in 2007 and is about 7.5 meters tall. You can see more on this earlier post.

Rendaiji was siad to have been founded by the famed monk Gyoki in 733. He enshrined a Kannon and Yuga Daigongen.

In the late Heian Period the complex was destroyed by fire.

It was rebuilt in the Muromachi Period, but really grew in stature during the Edo Period when it became a major pilgrimage destination.

Yoga Daigongen was a deity that offered protection against misfortune, and it became paired with the Konpira Daigongen across on Shikoku. A pilgrimage to both sites became very popular.

The Guest Hall, or, Reception Hall dates back to the very end of the 18th century.

It boasts an impressive collection of painted screens by some well known artists and also offers views of the garden

It is free to enter and I am disappointed I did not.

In many placdes where a temple and shrine were seperated, they now sit adjacent to each other, but here thye shrine part is in the middle of the Buddhist part. After passing through the shrine you come to the second area of the temple and here is the Kannon Hall, pictured in photo 1 above, and also the Daishi Hall below. I will cover the shrine, with its unusual ceramic torii, in the next post in the series.

Also on this side of the complex is an area devoted to Mizuko Jizo.

Also in this part of the complex is the pagoda. In Tahoto style associated with Shingon.

The original pagoda collapsed during a storm in 1670, and was rebuilt during the 1830's and 40's. It is said to be the biggest pagoda in Okayama.

Officially seperated in 1868, the shrine and temple began again to operate as one entity after 1945, however in the lat 1990's a duispute arose between the shrine and temple that continues to this day.

The head priest of the temple and the head priest of the shrine are brothers, which may explain the dispute somewhat.

The previous post in this series on my walk along the Chugoku Kannon Pilgrimage was on the old  pilgrimage trail leading to Rendaiji.