Futagoji Temple 1 Kyushu Fudo Myoo Pilgrimage

 

Futago-ji Temple is located right in the cemtre of the Kunisaki Peninsula in Oita.

It is the first temple of the Kyushu Fudo Myoo Pilgrimage, with a cluster of other temples of the pilgrimage also in the Kunisaki Peninsula.

I arrived here on day 5, after having visited the other temples earlier as I had been following a route that roughly followed an ancient yamabushi pilgrimage route around the peninsula in a clockwise direction.

I had visited Futagoji several times before, most recently posting about it when I visited on an earlier 5-day walk around the peninsula in Autumn colors season.

Said to have been founded in 718, along with numerous other temples around the peninsula.

It is now considered the head temple of the Rokugo Manzan, the unique syncretic, shugendo sect.

In earlier times it was the head of the central area of the Rokugo manzan system.

In this first post I am just showing things around the lower area of the temple complex.

The main worship hall on this level is the Goma-do.

Enshrining Fudo Myoo, it was the focus of my visit.

All the photos from this point on were taken inside the Goma-do.

In the next post in the series I will cover the Okunoin and the other sights along the way to it...

The previous post was on Jinguji Temple 2, which I visited the evening before.

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Kawada Hachiman Shrine

 

Kawada Hachiman is the biggest shrine in the Yamakawa district of western Tokushima, but is deserted most of the year outside of the annual festival which draws visitors from across the prefecture.

There is no date for when it was originally founded, but it was rebuilt in 1189. It is said to have been a guardian shrine for the Inbe Clan.

The Inbe, or Imbe, were a powerful clan at court but lost power to the Nakatomi/Fujiwara. They sent a branch of the clan to what is now Tokushima to grow hemp for imperial shinto rituals. Another branch of the clan controlled the production of magatama in what is now the Tamatsukuri area near Matsue.

It is believed that at first the three "Munakata Princesses" were enshrined here, Ichikishimahime, Tagitsuhime, and Tagorihime. Later Hachiman was added.

Within the grounds is an Atago Shrine, a Kasuga Shrine, and a Shinmei Shrine.

The previous post in this series on my walk along the Shikoku Fudo Myoo Pilgrimage was on temple 8, Chozenji, further upstream.

Osake Shrine

 

Osake Shrine is a big, ancient shrine on the coast of Hyogo near to Ako.

The main kami is the spirit of Hata no Kawakatsu, whose grave is on the sacred uninhabited island just offshore.

The Hata were an intriguing immigrant clan who have unknown but variously theorized roots. Some say they were descendants of a Chinese emperor. Others say they were a "lost" tribe of Israel. Some say they came to Japan from paekche in Korea, others say Sila. Some say they spent time in Izumo before moving to Yamato.

Like other immigrant clans at the time they settled near what is now Kyoto and quite a few important sites are attributed to them, including most famously Fushimi Inari Shrine, but also Matsuo Taisha. Kawakatsu no Hata was a known associate of Shotoku Taishi and is said to have had much influence over the founding and construction of Shitennoji Temple.

One noteworthy point about Osake Shrine is that along with the shitno zuijin guardians there is also a pair of Buddhist Nio.

Also noteworthy are the large number of Ema paintings, especially those of boats. One dated to 1722 is considered the oldest and most valuable in Japan.

Not on display, the shrine owns a 1,300 year old mask, said to have been either given to Kawakatsu by Shotoku Taishi or carved by Kawakatsu himself.

Kawakatsu is said to be the founder of sarugaku, and Zeami and many other notable figures from ancient theatre styles claim to be his descendants.

Following the death of Shotoku Taishi Kawakatsu set sail and ended up in this area and spent some time developing the land. Some say he was exiled, some say he left to avoid the political violence that was commonplace in the capital at that time.

When he died a few years later his tomb was made on Ikushima just offshore and the locals built the shrine and enshrined him.

The Sakoshi Boat Festival takes place every October and is considered one of the Three Great Boat Festivals of the Inland Sea along with the Osaka Tenjin Festival and the Kangen Festival at Miyajima.

One of the traditional boats used in the festival is on display in the shrine grounds.

Most of the current buildings at the shrine date back to the 18th century.

Within the shrine grounds are numerous secondary shrines, including a Shingu Shrine to Shotoku Taishi, a Sumiyoshi Shrine and a Kotohira Shrine, both shrines connected with safety at sea.

There is also an Inari Shrine, a Tenmangu, an Ebisu Shrine and an Awashima Shrine.

There are said to be 28 branch shrines of Osake Shrine in the area, indicating its importance locally.

The island is visited by the boast during the festival, but otherwise is still off-limits to everyone, so the woodland on the island is completely natural and is a National Natural Monument.

Though not as grand, I recommend a local sea festival from my local area.

The previous post in this series on the Ako area was on Fumonji Temple and its beautiful Kannon statue.