Showing posts with label ebisu. Show all posts
Showing posts with label ebisu. Show all posts

Wednesday, October 14, 2026

Oki Beach to Iburi to Kubotsu to Kinpei-an

 


Day 23 of my Shikoku Pilgrimage, and from Oki Beach I continued on down the coast of the Ashizuri Peninsula towards the cape and Kongofukuji Temple, the 38th temple of the pilgrimage.


I should easily reach it today, but it has been 3 days since the 37th temple, Iwamotoji.


It is unusual to find a cemetery with a Shinto gate....





With a large torii flanked by komainu, I was expecting a substantial-sized shrine...


But it turned out to be little more than a roadside hokora...


However, in a fishing area, an Ebisu shrine is going to be well maintained and used...


Several renditions of Ebisu statues .....


Plus a Taiko, indicating that rituals are still performed....


A Daikoku and a Buddha statues extend the mix.....


I think this final one must be a Benzaiten... looking like a female riding a dragon...


a small Tenmangu shrine...


Iburi harbour... with a curious tunnel... part natural, part man-made, I think...


Looking back up the coast....


Not sure what species of fish these are...


Another small shrine...


And then an Ichioshi Shrine, right on the waterfront....



... where a new road over the inlet...



Another very small shrine which has been completely rebuilt recently...


And then, on the outskirts of the little fishing village of Tsuro, an establishment with the name of Kinpei-an. It is a Zenkonyado, rudimentary lodgings made available free of charge to walking pilgrims. This one is very well known to walking pilgrims, as the 80 year old man who offers it is very generous, offering the use of the shower and kitchen in his house.


The structure is handmade but has a woodstove made out of an oil drum. The number of ofuda left is a testament to how many people have used his place. There is a move to gentrification on the pilgrimage, with pilgrims who want to camp and sleep out being actively discouraged. One website I know of for pilgrims refuses to carry posts on free accommodation options. It is a real shame as this has always been a pilgrimage for the less well-endowed financially. I know if I had to pay for lodgings every night of the pilgrimage I would not have been able to do it. It was too early in the day for me to stay, but in my opinion it is an example of the genuine spirit of a pilgrimage.


The previous post was on the glorious sunrise of the day...


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Friday, June 19, 2026

3 Shrines Around the Iwami Kokubunji Sites

 


The Iwami Kokubinji and Kokubunniji (nunnery) were located on the high ground just up the coast from Shimoko. Neither still exist, but the area is named Kokubu-cho.


The first shrine I visited was the Otoshi Shrine, which is, I think, the main shrine for Shimoko.


It is up a long flight of steps and on the way up offers views over Shimoko.


The main kami is Otoshi, a son of Susano connected with growing rice and also with immigrant clans from Korea. There are several more Otosshi shrines in the towns further up the coast...


Other than that I can find no history or info on secondary kami.....


A walk east toward the main Route 9 brings me to the guardian shrine of the Kokubunji, Kokubunji Kantake Shrine.


It was moved here when the Kokubunji was moved here. I had always presumed that Shimoko was the capital of Iwami all along, but apparently it was originally further up the coast in the Nima area. It was moved here in the early 9th century I think. I must find out why.


The most striking thing for me at the shrine was the pair of ceramic komainu. Unlike any I have seen before, they are quite cat-like.


The main kami of the shrine is Raijin, the Thunder God. I have always considered Raijin, and Fujin the Wind God, to be primarily Buddhist, as they are often depicted in paintings and sculptures at temples.


However, in Shinto mythology Raijin is equated with Ikazuchi, created out of the rotting corpse of Izanami. Ikazuchi is connected to the Kamo shrines that preceded the establishment of Kyoto.


Due to its importance and connection to the provincial capital, the shrine is listed in the Engi Shiki. Also enshrined is Omoto, the local land-goddess found everywhere in Iwami, and also Ebisu.


After passing the site of the former monastery, I head to Route 9, the old San-in Do that ran from Kyoto to Yamaguchi. The original Sanindo turns off from the new Route 9 and I follow it into Kushiro.


Kushiro Shrine enshrines Kushiroame no Koketsuhiko no mikoto, the son of Ama no Tarashihikokunioshihito no mikoto, the ancestor of the Kushiro Clan who settled the coast of Iwami.


More of that story can be found in this earlier post from down in Masuda.


It is also important enough to be listed in the Engi Shiki.


In the early 20th century with the shrine merger programme, the village Otoshi Shrine was merged with it.


In the grounds are an Omoto Shrine and an Ebisu Shrine.


New growth on a Sago Palm....


The Ebisu Shrine....


I carry on up the coast following the old San-in Do for a while. Abandoned properties are numerous.


The previous post in this series was on two shrines in Shimoko...


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Monday, June 1, 2026

Matsubara Itsukushima Shrine & Tonoura Kotohira Shrine

 


Matsubara is the small settlement below Hamada Castle on the mouth of the Hamada River.


The shrine right below the castle and immediately next to the sea is, not surprisingly, an Itsukushima Shrine...


There is a secondary Ebisu shrine in the grounds and hanging inside the common pairing of two masks of Ebisu and Daikoku. 2 of the 7 lucky gods, the pairing has deeper significance in this region as Daikoku is read as Okuninushi, and the father-son pair of Okuninushi and Ebisu are important in Izumo mythology.


The Itsukushima shrine is a branch of the famous one on Miyajima. This one only enshrined Ichikishima and not her sisters...


The chikaraishi stones were used in displays of strength at festivals...


The shrine has some very nice, large paintings.....


A few hundred meters up the narrow inlet towards Tonoura, the Kitamaebune port in earlier times, is a Kotohira Shrine set among a rocky outcropping.


This was originally a small Buddhist hermitage in 1711, but a few years later, following a dream, Kotohira Gongen was invited from Shikoku. In 1868, with the separation of Buddhas and Kami, it was turned into a shrine.


The previous post was on the Otoshi Shrine near Hamada Port


If you would like to subscribe by email, just leave your email address in the comments below. It will not be published or made public. I post new content almost every day, and send out an email about twice a month with short descriptions and links to the last ten posts.