Taking Tea at Fumon-in Temple Matsue

 

Fumon-in, a small Tendai temple near Matsue castle, has an Edo-period teahouse used by the great tea master and daimyo, Fumai, and also later by the writer Lafcadio Hearn.

The small bridge you must cross to reach the temple is itself the subject of a ghost story made famous by Hearn.

In the grounds is a fairly big Inari Shrine. Originally established in Wakamiya Shrine to the north of the castle, the priest of Fumon-i was charged by the lord of the castle to perform ceremonies at the shrine. It was moved here in 1870 following the separation of Buddhas and kami.

The thatched roof of the teahouse Kangetsuan can be seen from the temple's outer grounds

The honzon of the temple is a Fudo Myoo and there are several other, smaller, stone Fudo's in the grounds.

Plastic bamboo...

Binzuru

The temple was originally established in 1607 by the first lord of Matsue, Yoshiharu Horio. Called Ganno-ji it was located further away from the castle.

It burned down and in 1699 was rebuilt at the current location and renamed Fumon-in.

The current location was chosen as it protects the castle from the dangerous influences that come from the NE.

The temple is now most famously known for the teahouse Kangetsuan.

Built in 1801 in the temples small, pond, stroll garden...

Fumai Matsudaira, the great tea master, is said to have visited often.

Visitors can walk in the garden and look inside the teahouse, but not enter.

In the next post in this series I will post about Kangetsuan.

After exploring I returned to the temple and the priest's wife brought me a matcha and sweet to enjoy.

The previous post in this series on Matsue was on the garden and teahouse at the nearby Matsue History Mueum.

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Garden & Teahouse at Matsue History Museum

 

The Matsue History Museum is just across the moat from Matsue Castle and opened in 2011.

It was built on the site of the residence of the senior retainer of the domain and was built to resemble a high-ranking retainers residemce. The museum is fronted by the original Eco-Period Nagayamon.

Matsue is known as one of the three centres of Tea Culture in Japan, thanks to Fumai Matsudaira, the daimyo and tea master.

The museum has extensive displays on Fumai and the tea ceremony as well as the history of the town and castle.

The cafe of the museum, where matcha with traditional sweets is the main offering, looks out on a small traditional garden.

Though modern, and built for the museum, it is a traditional Izumo-style garden, one feature of which is stepping stones raised higher than in other parts of the country.

Like most gardens it is planted with seasonal plants so changes throughout the year. These photos were from a couple of different visits at different times of the year.

The top of the castle keep can be seen from within the cafe.

From the cafe a corridor leads to an old teahouse with links to Sen no Rikyu.

I had always thought this was a replica, but apparently not, it is the oldest teahouse remaining in Matsue.

It was designed either by Sen no Rikyu, or under his guidance, in the late 16th century and ended up in Matsue. In the Meiji Period it was dismatled and stored at the Yakumo Honjin.

The previous post in this series exploring Matsue and Izumo was on the gardens at the Prefectural Office next to the castle.

Shimane Prefectural Office Gardens

 

The Shimane Prefectural Offices are located in the Matsue City, the prefectural capital.

Opened in 1959, they were built adjacent to the inner castle and its moat in what would have been the outer bailey of the castle complex.

Designed by Yasuda Shin, a Shimane-born architect, the building was recently made an Important Cultural Property.

The inner courtyard garden was completed in 1966.

The garden was designed by Shigemori Kando, the oldest son of the greatest 20th century Japanese garden designer Shigemori Mirei.

I found it interesting that the draincovers were incorporated into the raked sand design...

The influence of his father was quite strong.....

Another unusual feature that I found intriguing was that light reflected off the windows and created unnatural shadow patterns

Shigemori Kando later designed the garden at Tottori Prefectural Government Offices, and while some elements are common to both gardens, it is quite different.

If you are visiting the castle and have an interest in gardens, then it is certainly worth a visit, especially as there is no entry fee.

A second garden can be found in another part of the complex.

It is long and narrow and seems to represent the coastline.

The final two photos are stone arrangements in different parts of the park around the offices.

The previous post on gardens in Matsue was on the Meimei-an Teahouse.