Susa Shrine

 

May 5th, 2015, day 40 of my walk along the Chugoku Kannon Pilgrimage. A short walk from my nights campsite I arrive at Susa Shrine.

This is the head shrine of a large network of Susa shrines nationwide. I know I have come across many Susa shrines in my walks around western Japan, but I am not sure how common they are in the east.

There is a small Amaterasu shrine facing the main shrine.

The shrine was originally located a little to the north but was moved to its current location probably in the 9th century.

It ios mentioned in the Izumo Fudoki and so is very ancient. It is also listed in the Engi Shiki.

The main shrine enshrines Susano, but also his wife, Kushinada, and her parents, Ashinazuchi, and Tenazuchi.

Behind the main hall is a Miho Shrine, and to the east and west of the main hall are shrines enshrining various offspring of Susanoo, so the shrine is unusual in being surrounded by shrines in the 4 directions.

The current main hall dates to 1861.

The shrine is said to have 7 special sights, including a huge sugi tree.

Most unusual, perhaps, is the salt well. It is said that when the sea is at high tide the water from the spring is seawater, however, sciebtists have dispelled that story and explin the saltiness by natural causes.

Outside the grounds, but on the approach to the shrine, are another two shrines, an Itsukushima Shrine enshring the three munakata princesses, daughters of Susanoo, and a Suga Shrine, another shrine enshrining Susanoo that has many branches around Japan.

The honden was rebuilt by Harhisa Amago in 1554, and is relatively large, but n 14th cetury documents it was 4 times the size.

The honden has undergone periodic repairs and renovation about every 30 years.

A renovation is currently taking place.

The shrine is considered a "power spot" and is quite popular, though being off the beaten track and not near a railway it is relatively quiet.

The previous post was on the previous afternoons walk.

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Fujishiro Oji Shrine

 

Fujishiro Oji Shrine in Kainan, Wakayama, used to be considered the entrance to Kumano. The Kiiji Route, the main route of the Kumano Kodo, ran from Kyoto and then through Osaka and Wakayama. This route was primarily coastal or following rivers. From Fujishiro Oji the route heads into the mountains for the first time.

Of the 99 Oji, shrines where pilgrims stopped on the way to Kumano, Fujishiro was considered to be in the group of five most important Oji.

The shrine claims to have been founded during the reign of Emperor Keiko, said to have ruled in the first and second centuries. Historically, this is absurd, so let's say it's an ancient shrine.

The primary kami enshrined is Nigihayahi, a kami claiming descent from heaven and claimed as ancestor by the Mononobe. Seems Nigihayahi ruled over Yamato until Jimmu's expedition from Kyushu. Nigihayahahi submitted to Jimmu.

Other kami enshrined include Amaterasu and of course the Kumano trio.

The Ezra Stone, above photo left, is explained by the signboard below. If you offer sake to the stone and pray, you will become averse to alcohol.

Quite a delightful wooden horse.

The main hall of the shrine dates to mid 17th century.

The shrine is very proud to still have a trio of Heian Period Buddhist statues that represented the Kumano trio. The statues were not destroyed in 1868 like at many other shrines....

There are a multitude of secondary shrines within the grounds, including an Arima Oji Shrine enshrining Prince Arima who tragically died on the pilgrim trail above Fujishiro.

This giant camphor tree is listed as Komorigusu Shrine and is connected to Minakata Kumagusu. At the end of the post is an even bigger and older camphor tree.

Other shrines in the grounds include an Ebisu Shrine, Gion Shrine, Akiba Shrine, and Sumiyoshi Shrine.

The shrine is registered as a museum that includes all these sites as well as a reconstructed residence and garden of the Suzuki family. I Can't show it because it was built after my visit.

For generations, the Suzuki have been hereditary priests of the shrine, and it is believed that this is the origin of the Suzuki name.

Suzuki is a common family name as well as being a manufacturer of motorbikes and cars. My wife's sister married a Suzuki.

The previous post was on the last leg of the Kumano Kodo coming down to Fujishiro Shrine.

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Down the Isa River from Hachimangu to Izuchi Shrine

 

After passing by the entrance to Mount Sanbe, my route continued west down the Isa River.

My first stop, in the village of Yamaguchi, was the village Hachiman Shrine.

It was established in 1095, but I can't find from which "mother" shrine it is from, Usa, or Iwashimizu I think it is a little too early to be a branch of Tsurugaoka.

Curiously it only lists Ojin and Jingu. No mention of Chuai or any consort kami.

The style of architecture with glass doors on three sides of the worship hall is unusual.

Heading down the Isa River, the Yaezakura, the late cherry blossom with thick, pink blossoms appears several times.... I find it much nicer than the Yoshino cherries that dominate...

Of course, lots of other flowers are around at this time..

At some point as I approach Izuchi Shrine I pass from Iwami into Izumo..... it would have been clearly demarcated in earlier times....

Izuchi Shrine is written as Ijitsu Shrine on Googlemaps. It was known as Wakaichi Gongen until 1868.

It enshrines Kunisatsuchi no mikoto, a fairly obscure kami mentioned early in the myths and then disappearing. The honden dates back to 1812.

The previous post was on the delightful scenery of flooded rice paddies around the base of Mount Sanbe.

If you would like to subscribe by email, just leave your email address in the comments below. It will not be published and made public. I post new content almost everyday, and send out an email about twice a month with short descriptions and links to the last ten posts.