Over the Mountains to the Sea Again

 

Leaving Kubokawa and temple 37 Iwamotoji, the route carries on south towards temple 38, a long way a away down at the tip of Shikoku, Cape Ashizuri.

It is December 1st, the twentieth day of my walk along the famous Shikoku Pilgrimage, and it's cool and damp with the clouds clinging to the forested mountain slopes and the rain intermittent.

It's not a day for dawdling and exploring.... I pass some small shrines but do not check them out...

Much of the way is narrow roads with little or no traffic, and a few times, tunnels replace what would have been passes in earlier times...

After the tunnel, it is pretty much downhill all the way...

The rain picks up a little..... I have now crossed over from Shimanto to Kuroshio.

By the time I reach the coast at a place called Saga, it gets windier too...

I take a break in a seaside park and cook up some oatmeal....

The park shelter is not enough to keep the rain and wind out, so I use my umbrella as a windshield...

The tiny stove I have runs on the little paraffin blocks used in restaurants..... with the tiny kettle they only weigh a few ounces, but I can make tea, coffee, soup, oatmeal, instant noodles, pretty much anywhere....

I carry on down the blustery coast....

I had heard there was a free place to stay not far away and I hope I can find it....

The previous post in this series on the space between the temples on the Shikoku Ohenro Pilgrimage was on the Kominka Cafe near to Iwamotoji Temple.

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Tsubaki-do Bangai Temple 14 Shikoku Ohenro Pilgrimage

 

Jofukuji Temple, commonly called Tsubaki-do, is the 14th of the 20 extra temples on the Shikoku Pilgrimage. It is one of the ones commonly visited by pilgrims as it is located right on the main pilgrimage route and does not involve a detour.

It was established in 807 as a small hermitage enshrining a Jizo statue.

In 815 Kobo Daishi visited while the local people were suffering from influenza. He planted his walking stick into the grounds and prayed so that the sickness left the people and transferred into the stick.

Later a camellia, tsubaki in Japanese,  grew from the stick, and so the name of the hermitage became Tsubaki-do

The hermitage burned down in 1859, and the current camellia is said to have grown from the burned stump.

The red Fudo Myoo was known as  a fire prevention Fudo, but has been changed to a Non-Nuclear Fudo.

It has received a fresh coat of paint since I visited, as has the unusual gate.

I was lucky as I visited in mid-February, so the camellias were blooming

The previous post in this series was Sankakuji Temple 65.

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Kominka Cafe Hanpei

 

Just around the corner from Iwamotoji Temple, one of the Shikoku Pilgrimage temples, in Shimanto Town, Kochi, is this delightful old house.

It seemed open to the public and there was no etry charge so I went in to have a look.

At that time one of the rooms was being used as a cafe but the rest of the house was open and explorable...

As I understand it, the cafe has expanded a little but the situation is still that visitors can explore the rest of the hose...

It was built as a second home / villa in 1901 for a local businessman Hanpei Tsuzuki.

As far as I can tell, the second building seen in some of the photos with a tarp-covered roof no longer exists.

There are some nice features on the interior including  the ranma, the carved panels above te room dividers that allow light and air to curculate...

When I visited there were several ikebana displays....

The gardens, while not stpendous, were nice enough...

The previous post was 25 photos of Iwamotoji Temple.

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Sankakuji Temple 65 Shikoku Ohenro Pilgrimage

 

Sankakuji Temple, the 65th on the Ohenro Pilgrimage is the last temple in Ehime, before entering the final prefecture, Kagawa.

It is on a mountain at 360 meters above sea level, and there are some fine views on the way up and down.

In earler days it was classed as a difficult-to-reach temple, but nowadays the climb is easier.

This is one of the many temples on the pilgrimage founded by Gyoki.in the early to mid 8th century.

In 815 Kobo Daishi visited and carved the honzon, an eleven-faced Kannon. It is a secret Buddha only opened to the public every 60 years.

Within the grounds is a triangular pond with a triangular island. This is now a Benzaiten shrine, but according to legend the triangular "island" was used as a goma altar by Kobo Daishi. The pond is the origin of the temples name.

The temple is known for its very old cherry trees, but when I visited in winter, they were not at all imoressive.

In the early 9th Century, Emperor Saga donated a lot of land to the temple and it prospered and at one time was a large complex.

The whole temple, excluding the honzon, was destroyed by Chosokabe.

The current main hall dates to 1849.

The Yakushi in the Yakushi-do is said to cure warts and corns.

The 7 meter tall standing Jizo was made in 1977

The previous temple on the pilgrimage was number 64, Maegamiji.

If you would like to subscribe by email just leave your email address in the comments below. It will not be published and made public. I post new content almost everyday, and send out an email about twice a month with short descriptions and links to the last ten posts.