Sunday, February 6, 2011

Nagashibina Doll Museum

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This is the draincover for Mochigase Town, now part of Tottori City.

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It shows the Nagashibina Doll Museum which houses a collection of over 1,000 Hina dolls of the Edo period from all over Japan.

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Mochigase Town is one of the few places in Japan that still practises the rituals at the heart of the Hina Matsuri.

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There is a nice little garden and pond within the grounds

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With the obligatory hungry koi!!!

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The building itself is an unusual example of a large wooden building built in the traditional style.

Saturday, February 5, 2011

Saijo Inari

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The Niomon at Saijo Inari is most unusual. It is built of stone in the style of an Indian Palace.

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The nio are quite remarkable, though taking photos of them is hindered by the wire grill protecting them.

Saijo Inari is often considered on of the top three Inari in Japan. It is located a little off the Kibi Bike Path, and well worth the detour.

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Saijo Inari is officially a temple named Myokyo-Ji, and is sometimes known as Takamatsu Inari.

According to legend it was originally founded in the 8th Century as a Tendai temple. In the 16th Century it became a Nichiren temple, and in 1954 it became the head temple of its own separate sect known as Saijo Inarikyo.

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According to the founding legend the founder of the temple, a monk known as Hoon Daishi, had a vision involving a deity riding a flying white fox, though it is quite possible that this is a Meiji-era invention created after the separation of the buddhas and kami.

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Also worshipped here along with Inari is the Lotus Sutra, and behind the main hall of the temple the cliff has been sculpted supposedly into a sculpture based on the Lotus Sutra.

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Wednesday, February 2, 2011

Ebisu Shrine, Gion

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Ebisu Shrine in Gion is just across the road from Kennin-Ji, the oldest Zen temple in Kyoto.

Both were built in 1202 and the Ebisu shrine was built to protect Kennin-Ji.

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The main kami is of course Kotoshironushi, the official name of Ebisu.

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There are numerous secondary kami enshrined within the grounds, including Hachiman and Sarutahiko.

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Gion Ebisu is included in the "top 3 Ebisu shrines", and the major Toka Ebisu Matsuri takes place here in early January.

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Monday, January 31, 2011

Around Gion

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The Gion district of Kyoto is one of the most familiar places to visitors to Japan, and whiles I try to concentrate on posts that are more unfamiliar, because Yoko is from Gion we visit there fairly often to visit family, so sometimes I will post on Familiar Japan.

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This little girl was being photographed by her parents last August. Probably not dressed up for Shichigosan as that is not until November.

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The chances are she is a student of Nihon Buyo, traditional dance, and has just finished taking part in the annual recital.

Saturday, January 29, 2011

NEC Building, Momochi

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The 11 storey NEC building in the Momochi district of Fukuoka is not a particularly outstanding piece of architecture, but its use of some subtle curves and its cantilever porch gives it a little style.

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Like so many other buildings in this area of reclaimed land in Fukuoka it was built in 1996.

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It was designed by Nikken Sekkei, and while they are not a particularly famous architectural company, they have done a lot of interesting buildings. Clicking on their name in the tags below this post will show you some of them.

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Wednesday, January 26, 2011

Komainu of Kunisaki

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Like shrines and temples everywhere, on Kunisaki Peninsular there are plenty of the guardian Komainu. This one with a flat head is supporting a lantern.

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This is a variation on a modern style. Some komainu, like here, have a baby under its paw.

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Often seen with elephants and dragons, the ends of beams are carved as komainu

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This one is sitting on top of a turtle.... something Ive never seen before.

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There are dozens of different styles of komainu, and part of the fascination with visiting shrines for me is to discover new variations.

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All of these were found on the Kunisaki peninsular in northern Kyushu.

Monday, January 24, 2011

Haruta Shrine, Asuka

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Haruta Shrine is located on the east side of Asuka, right next to Okadera Temple. The two were a temple-shrine complex until the seperation of buddhas and kami in early Meiji.

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The three primary kami enshrined here are Onamuchi, another name for Okuninushi, Susano, and Homuda Wake, another name for Emperor Ojin.

The shrine is listed in the Engi Shiki, so is more than 1,000 years old.

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The honden has an unusual design with a T-shaped roof topped by 3 chigi. The torii in front of the honden I would guess to be a post-meiji addition as this style was adopted by State Shinto.

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A statue of Kinjiro, the common name for Ninomiya Sontoku. Similar statues are common in front of schools. Kinjiro is famous for becoming successful through self-study.

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Saturday, January 22, 2011

Momiji gari

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Went to a charity kagura event today and saw a dance I had never seen before, Momiji-gari.

The dance opens with three maidens dressed in gorgeous kimonos carrying sprigs of maple.

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The dance is based on a Noh drama which itself was based on an older story set among the autumn leaves in what is now Nagano.

The group dancing was from northern Hiroshima, and one feature of Hiroshima kagura is that "human" dancers do not wear masks, rather make-up.

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The dance was graceful and at times frenetic, and the blur of golds, yellows, and reds against the backdrop of autumn leaves was quite spectacular.

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Next up we are introduced to Taira Koremochi, the great Heike warrior, who along with an aide has come to Nagano to destroy a demon that has been harassing the local people.

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The heroes accept the invitation of the maidens to join their party and are repeatedly given sake until they fall into a drunken stupor.

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Now the maidens reveal their true identity as the demons the heroes have come to slay and begin a dance in celebration of the inevitable doom of the heroes.

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The transformation from maiden to demon is truly instantaneous.... one second the women are spinning around and in the next they have on the demon masks....... I certainly did not see it happen, and the audience erupts with applause at the slickness of the transformation....

As you can see in the photo, the masks are not held to the head by strings but are gripped between the teeth

to be continued

Friday, January 21, 2011

A gallery of Miko


Iwashimizu Hachimangu, Kyoto.
Miko, commonly translated as "shrine maiden" in English, can be seen at many shrines in Japan.


Iwashimizu Hachimangu, Kyoto.
At larger shrines they will be full-time employees with duties that include office work, cleaning, sales, and assisting with ceremonies.


Dazaifu Tenmangu.
They are not female priests, or priestesses. There are female priests, though they are  not a large percentage of the priesthood.


Iwaishima, Kanmai Matsuri
At smaller, local shrines, elementary-school girls will fulfill the role of miko in some ceremonies. A common scenario being Miko Mai, a dance performed by a single miko or a group. I have several videos of Miko mai, one performed by 4 village girls at the Tsunozu matsuri, and another of two full-time miko rehearsing for a festival at Kagoshima Jingu. Both posts also have lots of photos.


Takachiho Shrine.


Nagaoka Tenmangu.
The most common time to see miko though will be over the New Year period when shrines are at their busiest in the whole year. Big shrines will hire lots of university students as Miko to handle the influx of visitors.


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The full-time Miko will perform the more ceremonial duties, commonly inculuding purification rituals.