Iwanaga Hachimangu

 

A little further along the road to Akiyoshidai after visiting the Hirohata Hachiman Shrine, yet another large hachiman shrine appeared.

Iwanaga Hachimangu had a very long approach with numerous torii....

It is claimed to be the oldest shrine in the area, being founded in 715.

The curious thing is they say it was enshrined from Hyuga, now Miyazaki. All the other Hachiman shrines in western Honshu at around that time are enshrined from Usa. Usa was the original Hachiman shrine and as the cult spread to Honshu due to the association of Hachiman with the founding of the Great Buddha at Nara, it gradually became a national cult.

However, before it spread to Honshu, it had spread somewhat around Kyushu. I came across a couple of Hachiman shrines in southern Fukuoka that had been established very early on. However, I had not found one in Miyazaki. The head priestess of Usa Hachiman had led an army earlier to suppress "revolt" in the southern part of Kyushu, so maybe that explains it.

Like many shrines, this one has been relocated several times, although the exact dates are unknown. It changed its name to Iwanaga in 1922, but it is unclear what it was called before.

Like other hachiman shrines in the area, the kami selection is Ojin, Jingu, and the three Munakata princesses.

Within the grounds is a Tenmangu, and an Arajinja enshrining Susanoo.

In the 1980's a small kofun with an unusual stone-lined coffin chamber was excavated nearby. It was relocated the shrine grounds to keep it safe from the expanding limestone mining.

The final photo shows a quite common feature at many shrines..... a naval artillery shell!!...almost certainly dating to just after the Russo-japanese War at the start of the twentieth century.

The previous post was on another nearby hachiman Shrine, Hirohata Hachimangu.

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Hirohata Hachimangu

 

An hour or so after setting out from my hotel on my walk from Ine to Akiyoshidai I came across the first shrine of the day.

Yet another Hachiman Shrine.

This one was said to be a branch of the original Hachiman Shrine, Usa Hachiman, in what is now Oita. The date given is 732.

The shrine has been at its current site since 1660. It had moved several times before.

In 1221, following the Jokyu War, a new samurai lord took over the area. Unusually, he chose to make this Hachiman shrine his tutelary shrine, rather than establish a new one, which was normal.

The kami are Ojin, Jingu, and the three Munakata Princesses. This seems to be the norm for Hachiman shrines in this area.

In 1752 a Tenmangu Shrine was established within the grounds....

The main shrine was rebuilt in 1769, and in 1770 the shrine grounds were expanded and reforested.

The previous post was on the walk from Mine to Akiyoshidai, during which I stopped in at this shrine.

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Toshi Daimyojin & Ryosho Daigongen Shrine

 

Heading south from Futagoji Temple I stopped in at a shrine that seems to have been closely connected to the temple.

Toshi Daimyoji Ryosho Daigingen Shrine is the old name for the shrine, the name written on the torii, but in Meiji when the kami and Buddhas were seperated it became simply Toshi Shrine.

The Toshi refers to Otoshi, one of the sons of Susanoo, a kami associated with agriculture, and also connected to "immigrant" groups.

The Ryosho Daigongen are much more fascinating. According to the legend, Ninmon, the legendary founder of the Rokugo Manzan temples on Kunisaki, established this shrine in 717. Next year he established the temples, including Futagoji.

According to the legend, he was practising austerities in the area and was bothered by a pair of kami who he "tamed" and convinced to become the guardian kami of Futagoji. They are enshrined in the okunoin as Ryosho Daigongen.

The pair are said to be a brother and sister,  twin children of Hachiman, the powerful kami whose head shrine is not far from Kunisaki. Interestingly, this was long before Hachiman became equated with Emperor Ojin.

Other than Futagoji Temple and this shrine, there seems to be little mention of Ryosho Daigongen other than a statue held in the treasure house of Usa Hachimangu.

Nowadays, the official kami listed are Otoshi and Izanagi and Izanami

Until Meiji, the rituals and ceremonies performed at the shrine were done by priests from the Futagoji complex.

Like many shrines on the Kunisaki Peninsula, Buddhist Nio guardians of stone can be found. The ones here are said to be unusual in that their eyes are made of copper plate.

The previous post in this series on the Kyushu Fudo Myoo Pilgrimage was on the Okunoin of Futagoji Temple.

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Hara Hachimangu & Jingukogo Shrine

 

While walking from Chofu to Mine I stopped in at a couple of shrines. The first a Hachimangu in the village of Hara.

It is said to have been founded around 1420 as a branch of Hakozaki Shrine, the famous Hachiman Shrine involved in the defense against the Mongol invasion in what is now Fukuoka.

As well as the standard Hachiman trio of Ojin, Jingu, and Chuai, it also enshrined the three Munakata princesses.

The shrine has three huge trees, a Gingko, a Sugi, and a Mukunoki, and it is the one of the most interest.

It is the third-largest tree in all of Yamaguchi with some impressive statistics....it is 27 meters tall, with a trunk diameter of 5.3 meters. It is in remarkably good condition and is said to have been planted when the shrine was established, making it about 600 years old. I recently posted about another sacred Mukunoki tree in my neighbourhood.

The shrine is home to a unique dance, Iwato Mai. In the mid Edo Period two men from the village travelled all the way to Izumo to be taught a sacred dance based on the Iwato Myth. I suspect that must have been Sada Shrine near Matsue, the origin of much of the kagura performed nowadays.

The next shrine was Jingukogo Shrine, literally "Empress Jingu" Shrine.

One source says that originally it was a Hachiman Shrine, but in the early 15th Century the spirits of Imimiya Shrine were transferred here.

The main kami is Jingu along with Chuai, Ojin, the Sumiyoshi kami, and Emperor Nintoku.

Whereas Imimiya Shrine is the spot where Chuai fought against the Kumaso, this spot is said to be where Jingu gathered her army for her invasion of Korea.

The grove of trees surrounding the shrine is distinctively very different from the surrounding area and is beleievd to be between 300 and 500 years old.

The oldest tree is said to be a huge Yew tree..... It and the grove are registered natural properties

The previous post in this series was on the walk the day I visited these shrines

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Onbara Hachimangu

 

After walking through the small settlement of Onbara on the bank of the Gonokawa River, I stop in at rhe local shrine.

It's a Hachimangu, not surprising, and appears to be a fairly typical local shrine of the area...

However, with a bit of digging I was able to find a few stories in its history.

The Hachimangu was established in 1603, but prior to that the villagers were parishioners of an Amatsu Shrine which is about 4 kilometers upriver and on the opposite bank. That in itself is quite unusual, though Amatsu Shrine was obviously fairly important as it is ranked as a Sannomiya.

For those villagers that couldn't make the journey to Amatsu Shrine, they would gather on this hill and set up altars and perform rituals to worship it from afar, so it looks like the establishing of the Hachimangu was on a site already with spiritual significnce to the villagers.

In the 18th century someone stole the goshintai of the shrine, the object inside the honden that the kami inhabits when visiting. No info is given on what the goshintai was, though it was often a Buddhist statue or sometimes a rock. Nowadays, we are told that goshintai are supposed to be a mirror, though that is a largely modern "tradition". A new goshintai was enshrined. However, in the 19th century the old goshintai was discovered in the grounds so it was enshrined in a new structure named the Old Hachimangu. It now stands next to another small shrine, a Yama Shrine that used to be located at an old mine nearby that closed down.

The previous post in this series on my walk up the Gonokawa River to its source was on my walk into Onbara.

if you would like to subscribe by email just leave your email address in the comments below. It will not be published and made public. I post new content almost everyday, and send out an email about twice a month with short descriptions and links to the last ten posts.