Thursday, July 29, 2010

Inasa Shrine

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Inasa Shrine, also known as Hayatama Shrine, is located in a shady cliffside grove on the path to Kofukuji Temple near Inasa Beach.

It enshrines Takemikazuchi, who, according to the Yamato record of events, was one of 2 kami sent down from the high plain of heaven by Amaterasu to arrange the transfer of Japan to her descendants from Okuninushi, a story known as Kuniyuzuri, and which took place a few hundred meters from this site.

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Izumo records however make no mention of Takemikazuchi, rather they say that Futsunushi was the sole emissary. Futsunishi is considered the ancestor of the Mononobe clan, and Takemikazuchi is the ancestor of the Nakatomi, later renamed Fujiwara. As the Fujiwara increased their power at the expense of other clans, notably the Mononobe and the Soga, it seems that Takemikazuchi took on attributes and roles formerly held by Futsunushi.

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I will write a more detailed post on the Kuniyuzuri myth as soon as I have posted on one more shrine in the area.

Friday, July 23, 2010

53,000 knotted handkerchiefs

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Stopped by the Hamada Childrens Art Museum to check out the latest exhibit, owing much to Christo methinks.

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The building is covered with 53,000 handerkerchiefs knotted together. Each handkerchief measures 30cms by 30 cms.

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Its part of Tsunaide Aato ( Connection Art) a collaboration between 6 Japanese artists.

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On Saturday the hankies come down off the building and then the garden and grounds of the museum will be covered in hankies.

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It makes for some interesting light inside the building.

Hamada Childrens Museum of Art is located on the hilltop next to the University of Shimane, overlooking downtown Hamada.

Monday, July 19, 2010

Matsue National Government Building

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Opened in 2004, this building houses a variety of National govedrnment offices that previously had been scattered across the town. The Immigration Office is here, so I and other foreigners who live in Shimane visit it often.

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It was designed by Shin Takamatsu who also designed the Kunibiki Messe building across the road.

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The south facing surface of the building has glass louvers to cut down on the airconditioning bills and the roof features a rainfall catchment system.

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Other than that it is a fairly ordinary office block.

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Sunday, July 18, 2010

Teono Shrine

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Teono Shrine is situated atop a small hill, Honozan, between Izumo taisha and Inasa Beach. The 2 kami enshrined here are Taokihooi, a god of measuring, and Hikosashiri, a god of carpentry. They are considered to be the ancestors of 2 branches of the Imbe Clan, and in the Kogoshui version of the Iwato myth the 2 were charged with the construction of a "great palace" outside of the cave that Amaterasu was hiding in. Some consider this to be the first kagura den. Most likely this was the shrine for the builders of Izumo Taisha.

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Behind the shrine is a sacred tree home to Shirohebi Daijin, I suspect the site of a visit by a white snake, considered particularly portentious.

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Next to the shrine is a small park with an observation tower offering views over the surrounding country. The long beach is Nagahama, and according to the Kunibiki myth it is a rope that tethers this peninsular to Mount Sanbe, just visible in the distance.

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Much of the land down below would have been water 100 years ago. Lake Shinji has been reduced by over one third and land reclaimed earlier in the twentieth Century. The Hi River once emptied into the sea here but now empties into what is left of lake Shinj. 10,000 years ago this peninsular was an island separated from the mainland.

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Downtown Izumo City in the distance. The plastic greenhouses in the forground are for grapes for the Shimane Winery.

Saturday, July 17, 2010

Lotus Blossom Viewing

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Just got back from a visit to the Korakuen, one of the three top gardens in Japan. Located below Okayama castle in Okayama City, the lotus blossoms were on display for the hordes of photographers.

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The lotus blossom is one of the most recognised Buddhist symbols and can be found in much Buddhist art. The pink blossoms represent the historical Buddha.

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Lotus root is edible and can be found in Japanese cooking. Known as Renkon, it is good in soup or as tempura.

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There was a second pond with white blossoms. In Buddhist symbolism they represent purity.

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I find the leaves at least as interesting as the flowers.

Friday, July 16, 2010

Hanging lunch out to dry

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A common sight in fishing villages on the Iwami coast is squid hanging up to dry.

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I believe Iwami exports a lot of squid to other parts of Japan.

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Dried squid jerky is actually a tasty snack with beer. I often take along some when I am hiking.

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The squid boats use very bright lights to fool the squid into thinking its a full moon when they rise to the surface to mate.

The lamps are so bright that they can be seen through cloud cover when flying over Shimane at night.

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The strangest looking one I ever saw was on one of the Oki Islands. This one had been preserved and was hanging in front of a seafood restaurant.

Thursday, July 15, 2010

Flood update.

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3pm and the river has come up over the bank and is inching its way towards my millet, chingensai, carrots, tomatoes, corn (what was looking to be my best ever harvest), butternut squash, sweet potatoes, black beans, taro, and peppers....
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5pm and the river has claimed my garden.
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7pm and I am now an aquaculturist as my garden is covered with a meter of water that is flowing faster and faster. Bits of garden sheds from gardens upriver speed by on their way to the sea.
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The village paddies behind the levee are getting deeper and deeper, though I am assured that the rice will survive and be fine. It continues to rain a little, but the rain here is not the problem. Hiroshima is getting heavier rains and half the watershed of the river is in Hiroshima, so it depends on releases from the dam upstream whether the river rises anymore. Tomorrow I will find out what, if anything, in my river garden has survived. My village garden is above the flooding so really its only half my garden that has been damaged, and once the river recedes it will leave behind a layer of rich silt for next years planting :)

Wednesday, July 14, 2010

Flood!

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It's been raining heavily for a couple of days, and yesterday I noticed the river was high, so last night as it continued to pour down all night I worried about my riverside garden flooding, like it did 4 years ago.
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As soon as I got up I checked the small stream that runs through the hamlet. Normally this is virtually dry, but when it rains it runs quite heavily. This morning it didn't look bad. I've seen it a meter and a half deeper.
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Down in the paddies, the lowest of them were flooded. Underneath the water is my neighbors rice.
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Down at the riverside my garden is safe. The river was up to the edge of the bank, so my corn, millet, tomatoes, sweet potatoes, and black beans were about a meter above the water.
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100 meters downstream my neighbors were not so lucky... the gardens were under a meter of water. The community PA announces that the dam 30k upstream is going to release more water, followed by the siren. They expect the river to rise at least one more meter with the extra water. That should just about wash my garden away. The local rail line has closed due to a landslide upstream, and the police told me they are going to close Route 261 upstream aways .
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The village is protected from the river flooding by the levee that route 261 travels over. To stop the river backing up through the stream, huge steel floodgates are closed. But, you may ask, what happens to the water coming down the mountains and through the village?
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It backs up of course, which is why the paddies are starting to flood and people with low-lying gardens now have ponds.

Sunday, July 11, 2010

Kurashiki Heron

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Saturday, July 10, 2010

Tenryo Maru

The Tenryo Maru is one of the many tour boats that ply the canals of the Bikan historic district of Kurashiki in Okayama Prefecture.

Kurashiki is a fairly typical industrial city on the south coast, but the Bikan district is a little oasis of traditional streets and buildings that is a very popular tourist destination due in large part to the famous Ohara Museum of Art.

As with most of the major tourist destination in Japan I suggest exploring it very early in the morning. Japan doesnt use Daylight Savings Time in the summer so the days begin ridiculously early, but the tour buses and the hordes they bring don't usually arrive until 9


I found Kurashiki a little bit too touristy, a little bit too theme parkish. Most of the buildings are no longer in use except as tourist sites. Nearby Takahashi and Tomonoura I found to be more authentic.


Anyway, the combination of early morning light and still water makes for easy photography....