Tomonoura Temple Walk Part 1

 

Tomonoura is an historic port on the coast near Fukuyama. In mid August I walked around the town before visiting the Historic Preservation District.

I decided to explore the large number of temples along the hills at the back of the town.

As it was Obon, many of the temples had curtains on the gates and main halls displaying the temple crest.

The first nine photos are from Ankokuji Temple, a Rinzai Zen temple founded in 1273.

Originally called Konpo-ji, in 1339 the Ashikaga Shogun designated it an Ankoku Temple, one established in every province. The Ankoku system was an attempt for the samurai class to establish a national temple system for political purposes in a similar way to the establishment of the Kokubunji temple centuries earlier.

The Shakado Hall was originally the main hall of Konpji Temple and is a fine example of the Chinese style Zen architecture of the time. It was extensively repaired in the 16th, 18th, and 20th centuries.

It is a National Important Cultural Property, a;long with the triad of statues inside.

The first photo of this post is a Jizo statue also dating back to the Kamakura Period.

Immediately adjacent to Ankokuji is Shohoji Temple, another Zen temple.

Founded in 1598, it is also a Rinzai temple, a branch of Myoshinji.

In its early days it is said to have had a delightful garden, though it no longer exists. It is also said that Korean Delegations on their way to Kyoto were lodged here.

There is a small dry garden dotted with Jizo statues.

In plan form it is a "circle, triangle, square" garden favored by some zen gardeners and based on a famous piece of calligraphy.

Some of the Jizo statues are old, but some are of the more modern "cute" style.

When I was there the lotus was blooming....

Not far away was Jitokuin, yet another Rinzai Zen temple. Founded in 1601 with a Kannon as honzon, the small hall pictured above contains a Yakushi statue "brought" from Korea. In reality probably looted during Hideyoshis invasion.

Honganji was much larger and more important in earlier times. said to have been founded in the 13th century, it is a Jushu Sect temple, one of the lesser Pure Land Sects.

A lot of the temple town area has narrow lanes with high walls and is quite evocative.

Overseeing the area is Nunakuma Shrine, the main shrine of the town. Originally two shrines, both with ancient origins, the Watatsu Shrine, said to be established by Jingu on her return from her failed invasion of Korea, and a Gion Shrine dating from at least the Nara Period.

On this visit I didn't go in, but I will post about it later. In late Meiji with the shrine consolidation program the two shrines were merged and renamed Nunakuma Shrine.

Daikanji was curious because the gate carried a different crest than the main hall. Founded in the 12th century as a Shingon Temple, it later spent a century as a Pure Land Temple before reverting to Shingon in the 16th century.

However it seems that it was established by merging 5 different temples in 1938., with one of the former temples also used to lodge senior Korean envoys.

The new main hall was built following a fire in 2014.

Myorenji was founded at the start of the 17th century.

It is a Nichiren sect temple and was supported by the local Daimyo of the time, Mizuno Katsutoshi. The main temple structures date back to the mid 18th century.

The previous post in this series on day 10 of my Chugoku Kannon Pilgrimage was on the National Treasure,  temple 8 Myoo-in.

Entsuji Temple 7 Chugoku Kannon Pilgrimage

 

Entsuji is a small Soto Zen temple on a hillside near Kurashiki.

It is the 7th temple on the Chugoku Kannon Pilgrimage and also number 17 of the 24 Flower Temples of Sanyo, as well as being on the Bitchu Asakuchi Pilgrimage and the 108 Kannon Pilgrimage.

Though not large it has a delightful garden on the approach and several buildings are thatched.

There is no extant record of exactly when the temple was founded, but it is sid to have been by Gyoki in the 8th century.

At the nd of the 17th century it was rebuilt and established as a Soto sect temple named Entsu-an and about ten years later renamed Entsuji.

The honzon is a Shokannon, said to be carved by Gyoki himself. Shokannon has only one face and only two arms and is usually holding a lotus blossom. I believe it is a secret buddha here.

Entsuji is most famous for being the temple where the mink-poet Ryokan lived for ten years.

Taigu Ryokan (1753-1831) was born in what is now Niigata. While training at a local temple he was impressed with a visiting monk and asked to become his disciple. They returned to Entsu-ji.

I can't comment on his poetry as I am not at all a poetry buff, but while doing research I did come ton feel an affinity for his life and attitude. My favorite story is that because he was banned from attending Bon Odori festivals as he was a monk, he used to dress as a woman and sneak in.

Several of the structures are thatched, including the main hall. Built in the mid-18th century, it is unusual in that it has not been altered in the succeeding centuries.

I wish I had spent more time exploring here.

I also wish I had seen the garden in late spring when the azaleas were in bloom.

The previous post in this series on day 9 of my walk along the Chugoku Kannon Pilgrimage was on the former Yunoki Residence & Garden, a wealthy merchants property in the town below.

The Pagoda at Yokei-ji

At the start of my second day walking the Chugoku Kannin Pilgrimage I was at Yokeiji Temple on a hilltop overlooking the Yoshii River.

The temple dates to 749 but the pagoda is much more recent. The lotus were blooming and I posted earlier on that here

There were numerous shrines and temples within the complex which was a site of Shinbutsu Shugo since the Heian Period, that is to say the kami and the buddhas were worshipped together.

Yokeiji is the third name for the temple here, having been renamed twice.