Coming Down the Mountain Temples 47 & 48 Shodoshima Pilgrimage

 

After leaving Renge-ji, temple 44 on the pilgrimage, my way was now pleasantly downhill as the sun got lower in the sky on day 4 of my walk around the island of Shodoshima on its smaller version of the 88 temple Shikoku Pilgrimage connected with Kobo Daishi.

It's a wide path down the mountainside and glimpses of the Nakayama Rice Terraces can be caught.

After a while the entrance to a small cave comes into view.

This is temple number 47, Togano o san.

It is not a big cave, and at the back is the small structure housing the honzon, and Eleven-faced Kannon.

It is said that Gyoki spent time in the cave. He was the legendary monk that is said to have  founded many of the temples on Shikoku a full century before Kobo daishi's time.

Near the cave entrance are several more small "halls" enshrining Amida, Kobo Daishi, and Akiba Daigongen.

A little further down hill and temple 48 comes into view, Bishamon-do.

A benefactor recently paid to have the Bishamoin statue renovated and a new building built.

From here the Giant Kannon can be seen across the valley. I will be visiting it tomorrow.

I didnt notic them myself, but there are wooden statues of the Three Wise Monkeys, evidence that the Koshin cult was strong in the area. Koshin was in essence a Taoist cult but now Koshin sites have been turned into Shinto or Buddhist sites.

The previous post was on Renge-ji, temple number 44 .

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Asaharasan Anyoji Temple

 

Anyoji Temple is located just below Asahara Pass in the mountains between Kurashiki and Soja.

It was a large and important temple complex in earlier times and is now a little off any of the main tourist routes.

Its origins lie in the late 8th century when it is said Kobo Daishi performed ceremonies here before he travelled to China. Many sources suggest the involvement of a legendary mink, Hoon Daishi, who is said to have founded 48 temples in what is now the Okayama area, including Kinzanji 

The honzon of Anyoji is Bishamonten, and many statues of him, at least 42 I believe.

In the 11th century, when the temple was very powerful, 100 life-size statues of Bishamonten were carved. Some of the surviving ones are on display in the Jogando.

One of the pair of Nio guardians in front of the temple bell. Weighing about 11 tons is said to be the biggest temple bell in the Chugoku and Shikoku region.

During the height of its power quite a few high-ranking monks served here.

In 1201 the temple converted from Tendai to Shingon.

Many treasures have been excavated from sutra mounds built behind the temple in the 11th century.

A castle stood on the mountain not far from the temple complex and in 1336 much of the huge temple complex was destroyed in a battle between the Northern and Southern Courts.

The temple was rebuilt and continued to be an important centre.

In 1667 the temples surrounding Anyoji were closed down by the anti-Buddhist policy of the ruling Ikeda Clan. Perhaps Anyoji was spared because of its syncretic nature?

There is a lot to see at Anyoji. In previous posts I have covered the 

"floating" Dragon Kannon Hall

The Seven Lucky Gods

The Pagoda

The Teahouse.

More recently,

 the Tie-Cutting Fudo Myoo 

and Bishamonten statues nd other Treasures

In Japan Bishamnten has become associated with the Tiger because of a legend about Shotoku Taishi.

The main hall has a shimenawa and there are multiple Torii in the grounds, indicating this is a syncretic site where distinctions between Buddhism nd Shinto are blurred. In the Daishido, photo below, is a statue of Zao Gongen, protector of the mountain, and the main deity of the syncretic Shugendo.

The new Daishi-do was under construction when I visited but opened in 2018.

Inside the main hall.

Possibly this is a small sculpture of Fukurokuju, one of the Seven Lucky Gods.

The photo below is of what is now called Susano Shrine, though earlier it was known as Gion-sha and Gozu Tenno-sha. It was established here in the late 9th century.

Bishamonten & Other Treasures at Anyoji Temple

Bishamonten & Other Treasures at Anyoji Temple

The honzon of Anyoji Temple near Kurashiki is a golden Bishamonten.

These first six photos are taken in the main hall.

The central, golden statue is Bishamonten depicted seated, whereas he is normally depicted standing. I think the giant Bishamonten statue sitting atop the main gate is modelled on this one.

Bishamonten is, like the other Shitenno, Four Heavenly Kings, originally a Hindu deity brought into Japan through Chinese Buddhism.

Unlike the other three, Jikokuten, Zochoten, and Komokuten, Bishamonten can often be found alone, separated from the Shintenno, and is in fact one of the Seven Lucky Gods.

Also displayed in the main hall is the statue above of Ganesha in its Japanese form of Shoten or Kangiten.

As well as the main hall, the Jogando displays 31 statues, mostly of Bishamonten carved in the Heian Period.

Usually known as Tamonten when part of the Shitenno, Bishamonten seems to be his name when apart from the group.

Like all deities in Japan, both Buddhist and Kami, he has a variety of attributes and appearances though is usually depicted with a pagoda in one hand.

Like the other Shitenno he is usually depicted wearing armour, and usually with either a baton, or a spear in the other hand.

As one of the Shitenno he is considered the guardian of the north and his colour is black.

Most famously he is considered a patron and protector of samurai, and within the Shingon tradition is often equated with  Hachiman

The above statue is, I believe, of Kichijoten, wife of Bishamonten and an Indian Goddess of wealth, beauty, and fertility.

The photo above is, I believe, a modern statues of Zao Gongen. It is possible that it is now on display inside the refurbished Daishi Hall and not the main hall as when I visited.

In Japan the messenger of Bishamonten is the centipede, possibly because of the belief that centipedes can sense gold.

In Japan Bishamonten is also associated with the Tiger, probably connected to a legend about Shoko Taishi.

Usually, all four of the Shitenno are depicted with a foot on a small demon-like creature called Jyaki in Japanese.

The previous posts on Anyoji include the Dragon Kannon Hall, the Seven Lucky Gods, The Tie-cutting Fudo Myo, the unusual Pagoda,  and the Teahouse.

Onomatopia