Haguro Shrine Tamashima

 

Adorning the roof of Haguro Shrine in Tamashima, Okayamama, is a ceramic Karasu Tengu, and it has become the symbol of the shrine and also a mascot for the town.

Tamashima was a cluster of small islands that have now become reclaimed land due to the efforts of the local daimyo Mizutani Katsutaka who started with the area immediately around where the shrine is now and spread out building embankments and reclaiming more land.

The area quickly became a major port on the trading route of the Inland Sea.

Mount Haguro is a sacred mountain in Yamagata in northern Japan with a major shrine called Dewa Shrine.

It is one of three sacred mountains  grouped together as Dewa Sanzan, and is and was a major Shugendo centre, hence the Karasu Tengu.

The shrine in Tamashima became the centre of the land reclamation project and was supported by the growing merchant population.

The current buildings date back to the mid 19th century and have a lot of fine decorations.

Within the grounds are numerous secondary shrines including a Sumiyoshi Shrine, and a Tenmangu Shrine, as well as a Mizutani Shrine, Kumada Shrine, and a Warei Shrine.

The Seven Lucky Gods are also enshrined and very popular.

There is a small pine tree that has had its branches woven together and is therefore known as Musubi no Matsu.

The figures on tye roof are particularly nice with dragons as well as the Karasu Tengu.

Photos 16 and 17 show two other figures which I believe to be Daoist Immortals. One is riding a turtle and the other a crane, both important Daoist symbols and prevalent in Japanese art and culture, especially gardens.

The kami listed as enshrined here are Tamayorihime, Susanoo, Okuninushi, and Kotoshironushi.

A little off the main tourist track, Tamashima is worth a visit, not least for the artwork adorning Haguro Shrine.

I visited at the start of day 9 walking the Chugoku Kannon Pilgrimage.

The previous post was on the shrine at temple 6 of the pilgrimage that I visited the afternoon previous, Yuga Shrine.

Akashi Kaikyo Suspension Bridge

 

When it was completed in 1998, the Akashi Kaikyo Suspension Bridge was the longest suspension bridge in the world, a title it held until 2022 when a bridge in Turkey, the Canakkale Bridge took the title.

Though only the second longest suspension bridge in the world, it is nonetheless an impressive sight.

It crosses from Akashi, near Kobe on the main island of Honshu, over to Awaji Island, from where another bridge crosses over to Shikoku. The bridge is clearly seen from the train line connecting Kobe with Okayama, as well as obviously the expressway that it carries across the channel.

Underneath the bridge on the Kobe side is a museum about the bridge and its construction, and is well worth a visit.

The bridge is 3.9 kilometers in total length, and with a central span of 1,991 meters, the dimension usually used in measuring longest bridges.

The two towers supporting the bridges are 282 meters high. It is possible to book a tour that takes you up to the very top of one of these towers, an experience I heartily recommend and which I posted on earlier.

The bridge is more than 65 meters above the water at its central point.

The museum has great exhibits showing how the bridge was built, methods used, and how it is maintained.

Member of a tour to climb one of the tours get a guided tour of the museum as well.

A cross section of one of the enormous cables that carry the bridge.

There is an observation deck below the bridge that is accessed vis a walkway under the bridge that has sections of glass floor.

There is a cafe and shop with great views up and down the coast.

Called the Maiko Marine Promenade, it is accessed via elevators next to the museum building and costs just 300 yen and involves a 300 meter walk. At the point of the observation deck you are 47 meters above the water.

Around the base of the bridge on the Kobe side is Maiko Park with a couple of historic buildings including the Sun Yat Sen memorial Hall, a 1915 building showing materials about the Chinese revolutionary.

Dream Lens is a circular stone sculpture that is a very popular spot for taking photos of the bridge. Top photo.

The previous post in this series was on the nearby Akashi Castle. In case you missed it I highly recommend the post on the view from the top of the bridge.

Yuga Shrine

 

Yuga Shrine is unique in having a ceramic torii entrance gate made of local Bizen-ware. It is not the only ceramic torii in Japan. Down in Arita in Saga on Kyushu is a torii made of porcelain at Tozan Shrine.

Yuga Shrine is the now Shinto part of the former shugendo complex of Yuga Daigongen, a syncretic establishment forced tp separate in early Meiji. Post 1945 the shrine and temple began operating again as one entity but in the late 90's a dispute arose between them that continues to this day.

Immediately adjacent to the shrine is the okunoin of the temple. Again, the architecture alone is no help in distinguishing between the shinto and Buddhist parts as they are the same.

The okunoin currently houses a Fudo Myo.

The original kami enshrined here was Yuga Daigongen, a buddhist name and considered a manifestation of Amida and Yakushi.

The kami listed now I suspect were added in the Meiji Period and are Hikosachi no Mikoto, Kaminaohi, and Teoshihobo. They are not well known kami at all.

As well as the torii there are a pair of fine ceramic komainu also in Bizen-ware. The komainu date to 1829 and tye torii to 1894.

There are numerous secondary shrines around the grounds, many clustered around a set of Iwakura, large sacred rocks on the hillside said to have been worshipped since ancient times.

There is a Tenmangu, and also the Seven Lucky Gods are here as well as in the parking lot of the temple.

Interestingly there is a Susanoo Shrine, and here he is considered a god of matchmaking. Males will pray to the female ceramic komainu and females pray to the male ceramic komainu, both with a dark glaze so not technically Bizen-ware.

Yuga Shrine is considered an important shrine for disaster prevention and was historically connected to Konpira on Shikoku with both being connected pilgrimage sites.

The main hall, (photo 9), was built in the early Edo Period and is a registered Cultural Property, as are the ceramic torii and the honden (final photo).

There is a largish Inari presence here, though they list the kami as Kurainakatama no mikoto, not a variation I have ever heard of before.

You might notice the "cute" octopus statue......

This is Owatatsumi, a modern creation by the local fishing culture.....

Though somewhat distant from major tourist sites, and not accessible without a car, Mount Yuga, with all the sights of the temple and the shrine, is well worth a visit.

This was my final stop on day 8 of my walk along the Chugoku Kannon Pilgrimage, and the previous post in the series was on the Buddhist section of Yuga Daigongen, Rendaiji Temple.