Around Kawamoto Higashi Ohashi Bridge

 

After leaving Kawanoto, heading upstream the river does an s-bend.

Not far out of town and the Higashi Ohashi Bridge comes into view.

It carries a road that heads up to Iwami Ginzan, Oda, and Mount Sanbe.

 

However, it doesnt get much traffic. Most traffic comes into Kawamoto from the downstream side.

The bridge dates to 1967 and is 165 meters long.

It replaced a suspension bridge built in 1923. At that time there were still few bridges across the Gonokawa River, with most crossings still done by ferry.

Consequently the suspension bridge was somewhat of a tourist attraction. It was destroyed by a flood in 1965.

The previous post in this series documenting my walk up the south bank of the Gonokawa River to its source was on the roadside Tatara Shrine at the edge of town.

Until the Meiji Period, the river marked the boundary between the Hamada Han and Iwami Ginzan, controlled directly by the Shogunate.

Usually in Japan, when a river marked a boundary, it ran down the middle of the river, but it is said that in this instance the Shogunate put the boundary on the opposite bank and took the whole of the river as its territory.

Not sure how that worked in practise, but the next section of the river was the route used by the Shogunate to transport the gold, first upriver to Miyoshi and then by land to Onomichi, then by ship up the Inland Sea.

When the Mori Clan controlled the mines the silver was shipped out along the Kitamaebune trade route along the Sea of Japan, the closest and easiest way. Once the Shogunate took over using that route would have meant sailing around the territory that the Mori had been confined to after their defeat by te Tokugawa, and so I guess they thought that not so smart and kind of inviting trouble...

Entsuji Temple Garden

 

The karensansui rock garden at Ryoanji Temple in Kyoto is almost certainly the most famous example of what are commonly called Zen gardens.

Five clusters of rocks on moss "islands" in a 300 square metre "sea" of raked gravel....

At Entsuji Temple in Saijo, Hiroshima, is a garden that while not quite an exact copy of the one at Ryoanji, is more than modelled on it.

It was created in 2001 by the head priest who received permission from Ryoanji to measure their garden. Entsuji and Ryoanji both belong to the same sect of Rinzai Zen.

The shape of the garden is a little different to that of Ryoanji, but it was made to be the same total area.

The rock clusters and their spatial relationship with each other seem to coincide with Ryoanji. Since taking these photos it seems the garden has been changed a little by the addition of pure white gravel areas around each rock cluster contrasting with  the sandier coloured gravel of the rest of the garden.

The full name of the temple is Fukujuin Entsuji and it is believed that Shotoku Taishi trained here.

It fell into disuse multiple times over the centuries but was revived as  Rinzai temple in 1706 and the current main hall dates to that time.

The honzon is an Eleven-faced Kannon. The temple is one of the 24 Flower Temples of Sanyo and so is worth visiting in Spring and early Summer when flowers such as azaleas, hydrangeas, and lilies are blooming.

The previous post in this series exploring Saijo while walking the Chugoku Kannon Pilgrimage was on Aki Kokubunji, the ancient provincial temple....

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Twins Momochi

Twins Momochi is an unusual building located, not surprisingly, in the Momochi district of Fukuoka.

From the street the building(s) look quite unremarkable, however if you venture into the courtyard you will notice something quite strange....

The buildings looks like a single building, but there is a gap of a few centimeters between the East and West wings.

It was built in 1996, but I have been unable to find out who the architect was.

It intrigues me for several reasons,... one, why?.... and secondly, how did they do it?.... it brings to mind the many times I have seen houses in Japanese cities built so close together that there is no gap between them wide enough for a human, let alone a human with tools to repair or even paint the buildings...

The previous post in this series on modern architecture of Fukuoka was on the New Fukuoka Tower.

One wing is home to the Twins Momochi Hotel, and the other is home to offices.

Aki Kokubunji Temple

 

Aki Kokubunji was one of the monasteries that were established by Emperor Shomu in the mid 8th century as a national system of temples to both spread Buddhism and also solidify political control.

Each temple was to enshrine Yakushi Nyorai and have a 7-storey pagoda. Often government offices were built nearby. The Kokubunji for Aki Province was established here in what is now Saijo.

Excavations in the area around the current temple have revealed many details and the area is now a history park.

The original temple disappeared long ago, and the oldest remaining structure is the Niomon built in the mid 16th century.

The  Goma Hall was built in the early 19th century.

The main hall was rebuilt in 2004.

The Yakushi honzon was burnt several times and has been extensively repaired. It is a secret Buddha shown every 33 years, te next time in 2038.

Another Yakushi statue can be seen in a small Yakushi-do. It has also been extensivey repaired and dates back to the late Heian Period.

In the Heian Period the government offices were moved to what is now Fuchu, and many monks moved there too...

At some point many Shingon monks settled in the area and it became a Shingon temple.

The previous post in this series on day 14 of my walk along the Chugoku Kannon Pilgrimage was on Mitate Shrine, the main shrine of Saijo.

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Kawada Hachiman Shrine

 

Kawada Hachiman is the biggest shrine in the Yamakawa district of western Tokushima, but is deserted most of the year outside of the annual festival which draws visitors from across the prefecture.

There is no date for when it was originally founded, but it was rebuilt in 1189. It is said to have been a guardian shrine for the Inbe Clan.

The Inbe, or Imbe, were a powerful clan at court but lost power to the Nakatomi/Fujiwara. They sent a branch of the clan to what is now Tokushima to grow hemp for imperial shinto rituals. Another branch of the clan controlled the production of magatama in what is now the Tamatsukuri area near Matsue.

It is believed that at first the three "Munakata Princesses" were enshrined here, Ichikishimahime, Tagitsuhime, and Tagorihime. Later Hachiman was added.

Within the grounds is an Atago Shrine, a Kasuga Shrine, and a Shinmei Shrine.

The previous post in this series on my walk along the Shikoku Fudo Myoo Pilgrimage was on temple 8, Chozenji, further upstream.