Myoo-in Temple 8 Chugoku Kannon Pilgrimage

 

Myo-o-in Temple on the bank of the Ashida River in Fukuyama is home to two National Treasures, the pagoda and the main hall.

Though early records don't exist it is said to have been founded by Kobo Daishi in 807.

The honzon, an 11-faced Kannon is dated to the ninth century so it is certainly possible to be that old.

The temple was originally called Saikozan Richi-in Jofukuji.

The temple was supported by the nearby settlement of Kusado Sengen which grew wealthy through trade and became one of the bigger temples of the region.

The current main hall was built in 1321 and the 5 storey pagoda in 1348.

It is the fifth-oldest pagoda in Japan.

Much of the temple was damaged by a landslide in 1620 and rebuilt by Mizuno Katsunari a few years later.

The third Mizuno Daimyo, Katsutada, merged a nearby small temple, Myoo-in, with it and renamed the temple.

A small Good Luck Daikokuten altar and stone carving.

The torii and steps leading up to the Atago Shrine.

I'm not sure what the kokeshi dolls were doing hung up by the 6 Jizo statues.... but they are not there anymore...

As well as the Pagoda and Main Hall National Treasures, plenty of the other buildings are also quite old. The gate is dted to 1614, and the Shoin is dated to 1621, the bell tower to 1647.

The main hall is classed as "eclectic" as it incorporates architectural features from a range of traditions.

There is a Benzaiten pond and statues of the 6 other "Lucky Gods" nearby.

The previous post was on Kusado Inari Shrine next door.....

Takuhi Shrine in the Oki Islands

 

Takuhi Shrine is possibly the most famous of all the shrines on the Oki Islands, considering that during the Edo Period both Hakusai and Hiroshige, two of the most pre-eminent artist of the times, did prints of the shrine and its founding legend.

Situated high on 452 meter high Mount Takuhi which is the central peak of the submerged caldera that has formed the Dozen group of islands, the shrine has expansive views over the surrounding seas and islands.

Getting there involves a hike up a mountain trail which passes several smaller shrines on the way.

Known as the "Burning Lights" shrine, the legend is that three fireballs arose from the sea and flew into the cave where the shrine now stands.

Another story has it that when Emperor Gotoba was on his way here to exile his ship was lost and a light from the shrine saved him.

The origin stories most likely relate to the practice of signal fires and temple and shrine  lanterns being used by sailors to navigate at night. Takuhi Shrine became well known as a shrine offering protection on sea journeys.

The honden of the shrine is built into a small cave and is said to be the oldest building on the Oki Islnds.

It was built in 1732, prefabricated in Osaka and then shipped here and carried up the mountain to be reassembled.

It, along with the main hall are registered Important Cultural Properties.

The ornate carvings only appear on the front and one side of the structure, with the two unseen sides remaining plain.

By the 14th century it had become a Shugendo site and Unjoji Temple was set up with a Jizo as honzon.

The combined site became known as Takuhi Gongen until the early Meiji Period when most traces of Buddhism were removed.

The kami enshrined here is now listed as Ohirumenomuch, more commonly known as Amaterasu the Sun Goddess. Originally the mountain itself was considered the kami. For most of its history the primary deity was a Jizo.

There are numerous smaller shrines dotted around mountainside.

On one visit I was accompanied by the head priest whose family were originally Buddhist priests serving the complex.

The former priests house not far from the shrine is now used as the shrine office. It is a fine example of a traditional large house .

While chatting with the priest he showed me this painting of a Tengu. According to our chat he said that the highest shrine on the mountain was a Sanjin Shrine dedicated to Tengu. However, upon some research it turns out that the sanjin concept was created by Hirata Atsutane in the 19th century.... He also showed me a print of Izuna Daigongen which at the time I described as Tengu Dakiniten Fudo Myoo.

The previous post in this series on the Oki Islands was on the kagura performed in the area.

Kusado Inari Shrine

 

Day 10 of my walk along the Chugoku Kannon Pilgrimage begins just south of  downtown Fukuyama on the bank of the Ashida River.

Kusado Inari Shrine was originally located on an island in the river that has long since disappeared due to river straightening and land reclamation.

Kusado Sengen was a fairly major port about 1,000 years ago but has long since disappeared, however the history museum in the castle grounds has an excellent set of displays about what was there...

Kusado Sengen was important and wealthy enough to maintain a major temple complex, now named Myoo-in, adjacent to the shrine.

The shrine was said to have been established by a sword-maker who lived in Kusado Sengen after he donated a sword to the temple.

The shrine was swept away by flood numerous times and was moved to its current location in 1655 after having been rebuilt by the founder of Fukuyama Castle, Mizuno Katsunari, at the original site.

It is claimed that the shrine receives the second-largest number of visitors at New Year of all shrines in Hiroshima Prefecture.

With the elevated main hall it reminded me of Yutoku Inari down on Kysuhu... though on a somewhat smaller scale. Perhaps that was the inspiration.

Between the business hours of 9 to 4 the gates to the stairs leading up to the elevated main hall are opened. There are great views.

At other hours the shrine is open and the lower main hall can be used.

The construction of the concrete framework and upper hall was not until the 1980's.

There are many different Inari shrines within the grounds.

The main kami enshrined here is Ukanomitama, the standard Inari kami, but also enshrined is Ukemochi, otherwise known as Ogetsuhime, another food deity that also sometimes appears as a fox, and the third kami is Onamuchi, otherwise known as Okuninushi.

The shrine is popular all year round, and has a full schedule of festivals...

On top of the mountain is an Atago Shrine, the protective shrine for Myoo-in Temple. With the separation of Buddhas and Kami the shrine came under the control of Kusado Inari.

The largest of the secondary shrines in the grounds is the Hachiman Shrine photo below.

The previous post in this series was on the Niagari Odori Festival the evening before.