Suijin Shrine Saigo

 

This Suijin Shrine, is located on the waters edge in Saigo, the main port of Dogo, the largest of the Oki Islands in the Sea of Japan off of Shimane.

Most locals refer to it as Tenjinsan, as since at least the 16th century Sugawara Michizane has been enshrined here.

However, towards the end of the Edo period it was decided that this was a Suijin Shrine that had been recorded in the tenth century, and Tenjin had been added later.

I recently covered a similar situation where the Suwa Shrine in Kobe had become overpowered by the Inari that had been enshrined later.

The main kami is now listed as Mizuhanome, though it is unclear if that was a renaming from the Meiji riod when many kami were renamed to fit with the "national" histories of the Kojiki and Nihonshoki.

The previous ost in this series on the Oki Islands was on Takuhi Shrine, one of the most important shrines in the Oki Islands.

Takuhi Shrine in the Oki Islands

 

Takuhi Shrine is possibly the most famous of all the shrines on the Oki Islands, considering that during the Edo Period both Hakusai and Hiroshige, two of the most pre-eminent artist of the times, did prints of the shrine and its founding legend.

Situated high on 452 meter high Mount Takuhi which is the central peak of the submerged caldera that has formed the Dozen group of islands, the shrine has expansive views over the surrounding seas and islands.

Getting there involves a hike up a mountain trail which passes several smaller shrines on the way.

Known as the "Burning Lights" shrine, the legend is that three fireballs arose from the sea and flew into the cave where the shrine now stands.

Another story has it that when Emperor Gotoba was on his way here to exile his ship was lost and a light from the shrine saved him.

The origin stories most likely relate to the practice of signal fires and temple and shrine  lanterns being used by sailors to navigate at night. Takuhi Shrine became well known as a shrine offering protection on sea journeys.

The honden of the shrine is built into a small cave and is said to be the oldest building on the Oki Islnds.

It was built in 1732, prefabricated in Osaka and then shipped here and carried up the mountain to be reassembled.

It, along with the main hall are registered Important Cultural Properties.

The ornate carvings only appear on the front and one side of the structure, with the two unseen sides remaining plain.

By the 14th century it had become a Shugendo site and Unjoji Temple was set up with a Jizo as honzon.

The combined site became known as Takuhi Gongen until the early Meiji Period when most traces of Buddhism were removed.

The kami enshrined here is now listed as Ohirumenomuch, more commonly known as Amaterasu the Sun Goddess. Originally the mountain itself was considered the kami. For most of its history the primary deity was a Jizo.

There are numerous smaller shrines dotted around mountainside.

On one visit I was accompanied by the head priest whose family were originally Buddhist priests serving the complex.

The former priests house not far from the shrine is now used as the shrine office. It is a fine example of a traditional large house .

While chatting with the priest he showed me this painting of a Tengu. According to our chat he said that the highest shrine on the mountain was a Sanjin Shrine dedicated to Tengu. However, upon some research it turns out that the sanjin concept was created by Hirata Atsutane in the 19th century.... He also showed me a print of Izuna Daigongen which at the time I described as Tengu Dakiniten Fudo Myoo.

The previous post in this series on the Oki Islands was on the kagura performed in the area.

Oki Islands Kagura

Oki Islands Kagura

I'm a big fan of kagura, the traditional performing art of japan that is the least well-known. In my area, Iwami in Shimane, kagura is hugely popular,but over the years I have been fortunate to see some different styles of kagura in Izumo, Hiroshima, Yamaguchi, Oita, and Miyazaki, and, as shown here, on the Oki Islands.

Nowadays normally only performed during the summer festivals, I was able to see a short performance of three dances put on for a group of tourists on Nishinoshima Island, and the style is Dozen Kagura as opposed to Dogo Kagura. One unusual feature of Dozen kagura that differed from all the others I have seen is the involvement of Miko, shrine maidens.

Miko Mai, or the dance of shrine maidens is probably the most common form of what was once kagura, though it is not usually called kagura nowadays.

The second dance was called Sakibarai or Sakiharai. The dancer represents Sarutahiko and the dance is a protective purification dance.

Traditionally Sarutahiko leads matsuri processions, purifying the path as he goes.

The instruments are the same as other types of kagura I have seen except there is no flute here.

The third dance was Kiribe, but unfortunately I know nothing about the character or meaning of the dance.

I don't know much about the technicalities of music, but a source says that here with dozen kagura it switches between 4/4 and 3/4 which is rare in traditional Japanese music but common in traditional Kprean music. Also worth noting is that the space the dancing is performed within is quite small compared to say Iwami Kagura.

The previous post in this series on the Oki Islands was on Uzukamikoto Shrine.

Goods From Japan

Uzukamikoto Shrine

 

Uzukamikoto Shrine is located near the northern tip of Ama, one of the main islands in the Oki Islands.

The main kami, Uzukamikoto, sometimes known as Uzuka no Mikoto is unique to those shrine and is obviously a local deity.

The shrine was listed as one of the 4 major shrines of the Oki islands in the 9th century. Its treasures include many volumes  of a Buddhist sutra from the 14th to 16h centuries.

Throughout its history it received major support in terms of donations of land from whoever was the political power of the islands at the time.

According to the myths, the kami was in dispute with a kami on the neighbouring Nishinoshima Island over a certain Princess Hinamachihime of Nishinoshima. The dispute was won by Uzaka no Mikoto and following their marriage she gave birth to a daughter, Yanaihime or Nagirahime, the kami of nearby Nagarihime Shrine.

Nagarihime was born at Byobu Rock at the nearby Akiya Coast, the subject of the previous post in this series.

The honden of the shrine is quite magnificent and large, befitting its earlier importance. Now with a copper roof, it was thatched until about 70 years ago.

Akiya Coast Ama Island

The Akiya Coast is a section of scenic coastline in the northwest of Ama Island.

Some of the inlets on the island are home to what I believe are oyster farms, though they could be another form of shellfish farming.

There are also numerous fishing harbours.

Like the rest of the Oki Islands, the sea is incredibly clean and clear, ideal for swimming, snorkelling, and diving.

Ama is the third-largest of the islands that make up the Oki Islands in the Sea of Japan off the coast of mainland Shimane, four of which are inhabited.

Collectively the Oki Islands are a UNESCO Global Geopark and so there is lots of explanatory signboards, in English, of the volcanic geology you can see.

 The Akiya coastline is not quite as dramatic as some of the other sites like theKuniga Coast or Candle Rock, but is nonetheless picturesque, with views across to Dogo, the largest of the islands.

Apparently the site is being marketed as a "powaa supoto" for lovers as the offshore rock formation has an opening that is shaped like a heart when viewed from one end of the beach, and also because a nearby shrine has a myth of a goddess giving birth here.

The previous post in this series was on Tengawa no Mizu Spring.