Coming Down the Mountain Temples 47 & 48 Shodoshima Pilgrimage

 

After leaving Renge-ji, temple 44 on the pilgrimage, my way was now pleasantly downhill as the sun got lower in the sky on day 4 of my walk around the island of Shodoshima on its smaller version of the 88 temple Shikoku Pilgrimage connected with Kobo Daishi.

It's a wide path down the mountainside and glimpses of the Nakayama Rice Terraces can be caught.

After a while the entrance to a small cave comes into view.

This is temple number 47, Togano o san.

It is not a big cave, and at the back is the small structure housing the honzon, and Eleven-faced Kannon.

It is said that Gyoki spent time in the cave. He was the legendary monk that is said to have  founded many of the temples on Shikoku a full century before Kobo daishi's time.

Near the cave entrance are several more small "halls" enshrining Amida, Kobo Daishi, and Akiba Daigongen.

A little further down hill and temple 48 comes into view, Bishamon-do.

A benefactor recently paid to have the Bishamoin statue renovated and a new building built.

From here the Giant Kannon can be seen across the valley. I will be visiting it tomorrow.

I didnt notic them myself, but there are wooden statues of the Three Wise Monkeys, evidence that the Koshin cult was strong in the area. Koshin was in essence a Taoist cult but now Koshin sites have been turned into Shinto or Buddhist sites.

The previous post was on Renge-ji, temple number 44 .

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Dairyuji Temple 9 Kinki Fudo Myoo Pilgrimage

 

Though not far from the busy city of Kobe, Dairyuji is not well known and not well visited as it is situated in the middle of the mountains north of the city.

As the crow flies, only 2k from Shin Kobe station, but with no public transport you either drive, or, as I did, hike

.

Just below the Nio Gate is a Jizo statue surrounded by dozens and dozens of smaller Jizos with brightly-coloured bibs.

The Nio themselves are quite interesting, with somewhat stronger facial features than most nio.

The temple has a reputation for protection against paralysis.

The honzon, a secret Buddha, is a Standing Kannon

After passing through the Nio gate steps and vermillion torii lead up to an Inari shrine.

According to kegend, the temple was founded in 768.

A court  aristocrat was in the mountains searching for a suitable site for a temple under orders of Empress Suiko.

He was attacked by assassins sent by the priest Dokyo. He was saved by the sudden appearance of a dragon.

He established the temple at the place the event happened. Dairyuji means Great Dragon Temple.

The backstory is that Dokyo was a monk who achieved unheard of levels of  power by being favoured by Empress Shotoku. He is said to have healed her, but some speculate that they became lovers. An oracle was received at Usa Hachimangu that was interpreted to mean that Dokyo should be made the next emperor.

This caused great consternation among the courtiers and powerful clans, and Wake Kiyomaro was sent to Usa and obtained another oracle that contradicted the first. That Dokyo and Kiyomaro were enemies is without doubt. Some have likened Dokyo to Rasputin.

The temple is one of the very many that Kobo daishi is said to have visited on his way to China to study and then visited again on his return.

The temple is now a Shingon temple and has a Daishi Hall.

During the unrest of the Nanboku-cho Period in the 14th century, the temple was part of a castle and was destroyed several times but rebuilt.

The current structures date from the Edo Period.

The temple is perhaps best known for its large, vermillion Mountain Gate, but as I arrived via the footpath I didn't get to see it.

A Bokefuji Kannon for protection against dementia and senility.

Though there are many different Kannon statues here, I was here to visit the Goma-do which houses the Fudo Myoo.

The Fudo statue dates to the Edo Period and is flanked by a Daishi and a Jizo.

From here I carried on north towards the next temple located in Yamada.

The previous post was on my walk up the mountain to get here.

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Mitakidera Temple 13 Chugoku Kannon Pilgrimage Part 1 Down Below

 

Mitakidera is a real hidden gem in Hiroshima. Tucked away in a narrow, steep, valley, it is only a few kilometers from the epicenter of the atom bomb blast, but was mostly unscathed.

There are many things to see in the steep climb up to the main hall, the first being theTahoto-style pagoda.

This was not here until 1951 when it was donated to the temple as a memorial to the bomb victims.

Until then, it was located at Hiro Hachiman Shrine near Yuasa in Wakayama.

It was built in the 1520's and has many colourful carvings that are worth checking out.

Mitakidera is said to have been founded in 809 by Kobo Daishi.

The honzon of Mitakidera is a Kannon, but also an unusual triple deity Sanki Daigongen, more of which in the next post.

Mitaki means three waterfalls, named after the three small waterfalls within the grounds.

Interestingly each is from a different souirce.

One of the many tsukubai, water basins, within the temple.

Mitakidera is known for its autumn foliage. I was here in early November, so they were just starting.

The Soshin Kannon Hall, built in the Edo Period and renovated in early Meiji.

Theer are so many things to see, and I took so many photos, that I have split this post into two parts...

Founders Garden..... not sure if this refers to only the major founders of this temple, or Shingon Buddhism in general. Obviously, Kobo Daishi is here..... Is it four variations of Kobo? Four monks or abbots connected to Mitakidera,... or 4 Shingon Patriarchs?

Behind the group of statues is Komaga Falls, the lowest of the three...

Incidentally, water from the three falls is used in the Peace Ceremony every year at the Peace Park and Museum.

From here the path leads up to the Bell Tower, which did suffer damage during the bomb blast.

There are many, many statues along the path. Quite a few are Kannons.

I think these are some of the Rakan.

Next you pass a small thatched teahouse and garden.

This is the Fudaraku Garden and Teahouse.

Unfortunately, it only opens during the fall foliage season.

The garden was built in the 1950's by the famous garden designer Mirei Shigemori.

Behind it is Bon no Falls, the second of the three.

Next I will post on the upper part of the temple. The previous post was on the Brush Museum in Kumano.

The second part on Mitakidera, with 30 more photos is here.