Kanden-an. Samurai Villa with Teahouse, Bathhouse, & Garden designed by a Warlord

 

Kanden-an was the country retreat for the Arisawa family, the chief  retainers of the Matsudaira who controlled Matsue Domain from the nearby castle.

Open to the public on weekends for part of the year, it is not on most tourists' radar, but is a National Historic Site, a National Scenic Site, and an Important Cultural Property.

Located a couple of kilometers from the castle, the way to the villa is along a footpath through the woods until you reach the original gate that would have been used by guests.

It is no longer in use and so visitors now follow the scenic main path up to the villa.

The land was given to the Arisawa by Matsudaira Naomasa, the first Matsudaira Lord of the Matsue Domain.

The 5th head of the Arisawa taught tea ceremony to Matsudaira Fumai when he was a child. Fumai became a great Tea Master and is why Matsue is one of the three main tea ceremony centres in Japan.

The 6th head of the Arisawa, Kazuyoshi, was taught tea ceremony by Fumai and was a great favourite of Fumai.

Meimei-an, another teahouse in Matsue worth visiting was built by Fumai for Kazuyoshi in the Arisawa main residence near the castle.

The teahouse, bathhouse, and garden here at Kanden-an are said to have been designed by Fumai.

Visitors now arrive first at the main villa, built in 1792. If you choose to have tea on your visit, this is where you will have it, looking out over the simple garden and down towards the castle.

The stonework of the paths are very striking, although the garden itself is simply rows of pruned bushes.

Many of the gardens in the Matsue and Izumo area were designed by Fumai's head garden designer, Sawa Gentan, and he is responsible for the Izumo Style Garden. However, it seems he was not involved here, and the garden was designed by Fumai.

Adjacent to the main house is the thatched teahouse, also built in 1792. Unfortunately, it cannot be entered.

From the teahouse, a path leads up to the bathhouse.

Originally, this is where the path for guests would arrive, and the bathhouse was a waiting area for guests before going to the teahouse.

Wating areas for guests to a tea ceremony are quite common, but I don't remember seeing a bathhouse before.

This is not the kind of bathhouse with a tub; rather, it is often called a sauna.

I went to one of these on a visit to Beppu, with a low entrance, dark inside, and a few centimeters of hot water. I was told that such types of bathhouse used to be fairly common.

From the bathhouse visitors head back down to the teahouse and then through a gate to the main villa, in much the same way as visitors would originally.

Though only a few kilometers from the castle, it is said that Fumai used to enjoy his time here.

Kanden-an is still owned by the Arisawa Family.

Other teahouses with gardens near Matsue Castle include the aforementioned Meimei-an, and also the Kangetsu-an

The previous post in this series on Matsue was on the exciting modern architecture of the Kunibiki Messe Conference Centre.

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Sumiyoshi Shrine Hagi

 

Just inland from the beach, and not far from the port in Hagi, is a small Sumiyoshi Shrine.

It was established in 1655, though for three years it was located across the river in the Tsurue district.

According to the story, a merchant from Hamasaki, the area around the port and shrine, was on a boat heading to Osaka when "hardship befell him". He prayed to the kami of Sumiyoshi and was spared whatever the hardship was, though apparently others didn't survive.

He went to the head Sumiyoshi Shrine in Sakai, Osaka, and arranged for a branch shrine to be established in Hagi.

The primary kami are the Sumiyoshi Sanjin; Sokotsutsu, Nakatsutsu, & Uwatsutsu, as well as Empress Jingu. However, a vast array of secondary kami are also enshrined here....

Suguwara Michizane (Tenjin), Sarutahiko, Tamatsushima, Kakinomoto Hitomaro, Suwa no Kami, Hachiman, Okuninushi, Kumano kami, Inari, Konpira, and many more....

The shrine's annual matsuri seems to be the major shrine matsuri in Hagi and has taken place in the summer almost continuously since 1659. There is a small, free museum in Hamasaki that has a collection of paraphernalia from the festival.

Like many shrines and temples, the Sumiyoshi Shrine in Hagi established a kindergarten in their grounds after the war as a way to create income.

The previous post in this series was on my walk along Kikugahama Beach...

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Tsubaki-do Bangai Temple 14 Shikoku Ohenro Pilgrimage

 

Jofukuji Temple, commonly called Tsubaki-do, is the 14th of the 20 extra temples on the Shikoku Pilgrimage. It is one of the ones commonly visited by pilgrims as it is located right on the main pilgrimage route and does not involve a detour.

It was established in 807 as a small hermitage enshrining a Jizo statue.

In 815 Kobo Daishi visited while the local people were suffering from influenza. He planted his walking stick into the grounds and prayed so that the sickness left the people and transferred into the stick.

Later a camellia, tsubaki in Japanese,  grew from the stick, and so the name of the hermitage became Tsubaki-do

The hermitage burned down in 1859, and the current camellia is said to have grown from the burned stump.

The red Fudo Myoo was known as  a fire prevention Fudo, but has been changed to a Non-Nuclear Fudo.

It has received a fresh coat of paint since I visited, as has the unusual gate.

I was lucky as I visited in mid-February, so the camellias were blooming

The previous post in this series was Sankakuji Temple 65.

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Kikugahama Beach

 

Kikugahama Beach runs from the castle ruins at the base of Mount Shizuki to the port not far from the mouth of the Matsumoto River.

Offshore are a group of inhabited islands, formed 800 million years ago by volcanic activity.

Behind the beach  are old, gnarly, windswept pine trees, and a few high-priced hot sring hotels built among the trees.

It is a very nice bathing beach in the summer, although like most Japanese beaches, the official swimming season is measured in weeks and not months.... to return in a few months to carry on up the Sea of Japan coast on the Chugoku Kannon Pilgrimage.

I was on quite a brisk walk along the beach as I had been walking for a couple of weeks and would be taking the train home in a couple of hours....

The previous post was on the Hagi Castle ruins at the western end of the beach.

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Tonomachi Street Tsuwano Samurai Quarter

 

Koi swimming in small canals along the street are an icon of Tsuwano, a small castle town in the mountains of Shimane.

In the previous post we looked at Tonomachi Street, the main street of the town that is part of an Historic Preservation District.

That post looked at the merchant section of the street, but in this post we will look at the samurai section of the street, closer to the castle.

Fewer of the buildings remain in this section, but plenty of walls and gates remain.

One of the remaining building is the Yorokan, the domaoin school for samurai. Running alonside it is the main canal filled with koi.

It was founded in 1786 by the 8th Lord, and closed in 1872.

Mori Ogai, the famous author born in Tsuwano, studied here.

It used to hold a huge collection of artifacts relating to local history and folklore, as seen above, but has been renovated back to its original condition, as seen below.

While some space was for book learning and lectures, most of the spaces were used for various weapons training.

There are a lot of large storehouses in the immediate vicinity.

One of the first group of buildings inside the samurai quarter, opposite the Catholic church, has been converted into a restaurant, coffe shop and tearooms, and souvenir shop called Saronoki, well worth visiting for its garden.

The previous post in this series on Tsuwano was on the other section of the old street, the merchant quarter.

if you would like to subscribe by email, just leave your email address in the comments below. It will not be published or made public. I post new content almost every day, and send out an email about twice a month with short descriptions and links to the most recent posts.