Monday, May 25, 2009

Yokai Gallery 1

Yokai

Yokai is a very broad category of creature that includes monsters, goblins, demons, in fact all and every kind of supernatural being in Japanese folklore. One man who is largely responsible for keeping yokai alive in contemporary Japanese folklore is Mizuki Shigeru whose manga and subsequent anime, tv programs and full length movies introduce many of the classic yokai as well as creating many new ones.

Shigeru's hometown, Sakaiminato in Tottori, has created the Mizuki Shigeru Road in honor of him, and there are more than 100 bronze statues of yokai along an 800 meter stretch of road.


The first statue just outside the station shows Mizuki Shigeru himself working at his desk. To the right is his most famous creation, the yokai Kitaro, though looking like a boy is actually 350 years old. Kitaro has appeared in 2 full-length movies. The yokai on the left is Kitaro's sidekick, Nezumiotoko (Ratman) who is almost as old as Kitaro and has never taken a bath so stinks.


Kappas, the water -sprites appear several times along the road.


The creature on the right is a Kirinjishi, and on the left is Shoujo, both characters are from old Chinese stories.


Nurarihyon is a yokai from folklore that may have derived from stories of a large jellyfish. In modern stories he is considered to be the commander of all yokai, and has a habit of slipping into peoples houses while they are busy making dinner and helping himself to tea and tobacco.


Momonjii is a kind of bogeyman that carries children off into the forest and is used by parents to threaten their misbehaving kids. Believed to derive from Momonga, a kind of small flying squirrel that turns into momonjii upon reaching old age.


Gangikozou is a fish-eating water monster related to the kappa.


Nuppeppo is probably from the Edo area, and to me looks like Mr Potatohead, but is actually a piece of dead flesh often found wandering in graveyards and temples.


Originaly from China, the Baku has been in Japanese folklore for a thousand years. It is a dream and nighmare eater, and it has had varying forms over the years. Baku is also the Japanese word for Tapir, and modern renditions have the yokai appearing similar to a tapir.


Nureonna has the body of a snake and the head of a woman. Exists in various sizes up to 300 meters in length, and often found on the seashore. has a habit of sucking all the blood from its victims.

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Sunday, May 24, 2009

Izanagi Shrine, Tenri

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Izanagi Shrine is located just across from the Sujin Kofun on Route 169 in Tenri, just a little off of the Yamanobenomichi.

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The shrine is mentioned in the Engishiki of the tenth Century, but at that time it was located in Yamada, southeast of its present site. It was moved here in 1641.

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Enshrined here along with Izanagi is Sugawara Michizane, commonly referred to as Tenjin.

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As often happened in the early years of Meiji, the shrine was renamed, but reverted to its original name after the end of WWII.

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There is also an Inari Shrine in the grounds.

Thursday, May 21, 2009

Leading the blind

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Japan first began to use raised "bumps" in the floor as a guide for the blind and partially-sighted in 1967--the first country to do so.

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They can now be found all over the country, in stations, public buildings, and on the sidewalk.

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There is still no country-wide standard, but the basic designs are "dashes" to indicate direction, and "dots" to indicate warning, i.e. a change of direction, platform edge, etc.

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A variety of materials are used, though a type of rubberised plastic is the most common. Metal is sometimes used.

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I find them a fascinating source of composition in photographs.

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Wednesday, May 20, 2009

Kaikyo Messe

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The full and proper name of the kaikyo Messe is the Yamaguchi International Trade and Cultural center.

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It's located in Shimonoseki as part of the complex that includes the Kaikyo Yume Tower.

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Like the tower, it was designed by NTT Power & Buildings.

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Didn't actually go inside, but on the top floor is a gift shop specializing in Fugu

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Tuesday, May 19, 2009

Typical Japanese Landscape 21

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This is in Tenjin, Fukuoka, but it could be any Japanese city.

Monday, May 18, 2009

Red Ogre (demon). Aka Oni 2

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Got round to finishing another mask, a second version of the Akaoni, or Red Ogre.

The earlier version of the red demon mask can be seen here

A short blurb on Japanese Oni here


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All my masks can be seen here

All masks are for sale .

Yatogi Shrine, Tenri

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Yatogi Shrine, sometimes pronounced Yatsugi, is a delightful shrine located on the Yamanobenomichi a little south of Isonokami in Tenri. The main hall has a fine thatched roof, and behind it the line of seven hondens have cedar-bark roofs.

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The seven kami are quite an eclectic collection. The main kami is Futsunushi, a kami of swords and lightning, and possibly the personification of the main kami at nearby Isonokami Shrine. Also enshrined is Takemikazuchi, a main kami of the Fujiwara clan. The myths have either or both of these kami descending to Izumo and convincing Okuninushi to give Japan to Amaterasu's descendants. As the Fujiwara (known earlier as the Nakatomi) wiped out the Mononobe, it is believed that gradually the Fujiwara kami usurped and replaced the Mononobe kami.

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Another enshrined kami here is Amenokoyane, one of the kami who performed rituals to entice Amaterasu out of her cave, and another ancestor of the Fujiwara. Another kami is Kotohira, a variation of Konpira.

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Strangely, Susano is enshrined here, though that may be connected to local legends that pertain to the spirit of the eight-headed serpent Yamata no Orochi slain by Susano. It is believed that its spirit became associated with lightning, and in the hills behind nearby isonokami Shrine are rocks said to be it.

Friday, May 15, 2009

Kagura dancer

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One of the things that attracts me to Iwami kagura is the sheer dedication and professionalism of the dancers, though in fact there are no professionals, they are all amateurs.

These shots are of my friend Tetsuhide dancing the purification dance as part of last years Omoto Kagura at Ichiyama.


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He's been dancing kagura for over 40 years, and all three of his sons are also kagura dancers. During the week he is a travelling salesman, and on the weekends he helps out in his families business, the village liquor store.

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Kagura is performed primarily as entertainment for the kami, but in one sense the dancer also becomes the kami. The dancers hold various kinds of torimono, objects into which the kami descend. For this dance he is using a fan and a large nusa, a type of ceremonial wand.

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The regular purification dance with 4 dancers was performed before this one, which is specific to Omoto.

Outside of my local area, Iwami, it is rare to find anyone who knows what kagura is, and yet it is the root of Noh, Kabuki, and other performing arts in Japan.

Thursday, May 14, 2009

My back yard.

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Nothing much exciting this post, just some views of my backyard! Actually we don't have a backyard, our house backs directly on to the mountainside and forest. The mountain is 254 metres high, and no-one knows if it has a name. There is supposed to be an old charcoal-makers hut on the top, but as yet I havent made it up that far.

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There is a small graveyard/cemetery immediately behind the house, and this section is planted in cedar, but the rest of the mountain is mixed forest. I havent gone up there much simply because it is very steep. Its the domain of the bear, wild boar, monkey, badger, weasel, marten, civet, among others.

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The mountain belongs to the local shrine, but in the years I've been here there has been no work done on or in the mountain, no thinning or planting etc. I plan on talking to the priest and some of the old guys in the village and see if I cant go in and tend the forest a little and get some firewood in the process.

Tuesday, May 12, 2009

Toyohira, Hiroshima

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This is the draincover for the town of Toyohira, now a part of Kitahiroshima in western Hiroshima Prefecture. It's a picture of buckwheat, soba in Japanese, and one can presume that its a major crop in the area. We were driving through the area on Route 433 heading across country on back roads towards Kyushu.

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As is usual, whenever we spy a torii we stop so I can explore the shrine. There was nothing of particular note at this shrine in Shijihara village except the biggest plastic shimenawa I've ever seen.

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However, on the way into the shrine we spied a thatched roof nearby that turns out to be the only remaining thatched roof temple gate in Hiroshima.

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The temple, Jodo-ji, was fairly large with a good collection of carvings and statues, dragons etc. The priests wife came out to greet us and then spent an hour taking us around the temple.

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The gardens on 3 sides of the temple property were extensive and rather nice. I remember thinking that if this was in Kyoto there would have been a hefty entrance fee, but we were getting a free guided tour. The gardens were not built by anyone famous, just 15 generations of the temple priests.

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The roof of the main hall was impressively large. I always feel pleased with myself whenever I'm off exploring the backroads and discover something really nice, and I was really chuffed with having discovered this place. But there was more, the priests wife beckoned us to follow and she took us behind the temple to a spot where a BBC film crew had spent 3 months making a documentary, for here was a breeding spot of a rare, threatened creature, the worlds second-largest Salamander, the Japanese Giant salamander

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They had a craft workshop where kids from all over come and make models of the salamander and learn about it's ecology and why it's threatened with extinction. I'll post more about this creature later as it can be found in our local river.

So, a brief stop to check out a shrine turned into a pleasant 2 hours with history, art, gardens, and ecology, all for free!!