Unpenji Temple 66 Shikoku Ohenro Pilgrimage

 

I spent the night at a minshuku at the base of Mount Unpenji. Overnight, there had been a heavy snowfall. 

I set off at first light, before the sun, as I had about 650 meters to climb to reach the temple. The trail was virgin. Not a single footstep had been made in the 6 to 12 inches of powdery snow.

After about an hour of climbing I was overtaken by a couple of younger guys who had been eating breakfast when I left the minshuku. Not only younger, but they were only carrying small day packs, so I watched them hurtle up the mountain and sat and had a cigarette break.

Unpenji Temple, the 66th of the pilgrimage is the highest of the temples at about 900 meters altitude.

Thye Niomon is very new, but not the Nio, although I can't find a date for them.

The temples origins begin with Kobo Daishi who climbed the mountain as a you man. He came back later and established the temple.

On his third visit he carved the honzen statue.

It became a well-supported temple with many branch temples on the mountain and became known as the Koya of Shikoku.

However, in the 11th century a fire completely destroyed the temple.

The temple was restored later and the new honzon, a seated 1000-armed Kannon, and a Bishamonten statue were carved.

The great warlord Motochika Chosokabe visited the temple and spoke with the priest about his plan to rule over all of Shikoku. I am guessing that therefore, Unpenji was one of the few temples in Shikoku he didn't destroy.

Most of the buildings seem to be fairly new.

I wish I had had more time to explore, as there are some fine statues inside.

The temple became much more accessible in 1989 when the Unpenji Ropeway was built.

There is actually quite a lot to see at the temple and it has extensive grounds. It is well known for Autumn colours, but for me at least, the most impressive feature was the 500 life-size statues of the Rakan, or Arhats. I gave them their own post here.

Shrine to Gosha Daigongen, the protective kami of the temple.

The previous temple I stopped at was the Bangai Temple Tsubaki-do, down below. Temple 65, Sankakuji was the previous main temple, and the previous post was on the awesome Rakan statues here at Unpenji

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Sankakuji Temple 65 Shikoku Ohenro Pilgrimage

 

Sankakuji Temple, the 65th on the Ohenro Pilgrimage is the last temple in Ehime, before entering the final prefecture, Kagawa.

It is on a mountain at 360 meters above sea level, and there are some fine views on the way up and down.

In earler days it was classed as a difficult-to-reach temple, but nowadays the climb is easier.

This is one of the many temples on the pilgrimage founded by Gyoki.in the early to mid 8th century.

In 815 Kobo Daishi visited and carved the honzon, an eleven-faced Kannon. It is a secret Buddha only opened to the public every 60 years.

Within the grounds is a triangular pond with a triangular island. This is now a Benzaiten shrine, but according to legend the triangular "island" was used as a goma altar by Kobo Daishi. The pond is the origin of the temples name.

The temple is known for its very old cherry trees, but when I visited in winter, they were not at all imoressive.

In the early 9th Century, Emperor Saga donated a lot of land to the temple and it prospered and at one time was a large complex.

The whole temple, excluding the honzon, was destroyed by Chosokabe.

The current main hall dates to 1849.

The Yakushi in the Yakushi-do is said to cure warts and corns.

The 7 meter tall standing Jizo was made in 1977

The previous temple on the pilgrimage was number 64, Maegamiji.

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Dairyuji Temple 9 Kinki Fudo Myoo Pilgrimage

 

Though not far from the busy city of Kobe, Dairyuji is not well known and not well visited as it is situated in the middle of the mountains north of the city.

As the crow flies, only 2k from Shin Kobe station, but with no public transport you either drive, or, as I did, hike

.

Just below the Nio Gate is a Jizo statue surrounded by dozens and dozens of smaller Jizos with brightly-coloured bibs.

The Nio themselves are quite interesting, with somewhat stronger facial features than most nio.

The temple has a reputation for protection against paralysis.

The honzon, a secret Buddha, is a Standing Kannon

After passing through the Nio gate steps and vermillion torii lead up to an Inari shrine.

According to kegend, the temple was founded in 768.

A court  aristocrat was in the mountains searching for a suitable site for a temple under orders of Empress Suiko.

He was attacked by assassins sent by the priest Dokyo. He was saved by the sudden appearance of a dragon.

He established the temple at the place the event happened. Dairyuji means Great Dragon Temple.

The backstory is that Dokyo was a monk who achieved unheard of levels of  power by being favoured by Empress Shotoku. He is said to have healed her, but some speculate that they became lovers. An oracle was received at Usa Hachimangu that was interpreted to mean that Dokyo should be made the next emperor.

This caused great consternation among the courtiers and powerful clans, and Wake Kiyomaro was sent to Usa and obtained another oracle that contradicted the first. That Dokyo and Kiyomaro were enemies is without doubt. Some have likened Dokyo to Rasputin.

The temple is one of the very many that Kobo daishi is said to have visited on his way to China to study and then visited again on his return.

The temple is now a Shingon temple and has a Daishi Hall.

During the unrest of the Nanboku-cho Period in the 14th century, the temple was part of a castle and was destroyed several times but rebuilt.

The current structures date from the Edo Period.

The temple is perhaps best known for its large, vermillion Mountain Gate, but as I arrived via the footpath I didn't get to see it.

A Bokefuji Kannon for protection against dementia and senility.

Though there are many different Kannon statues here, I was here to visit the Goma-do which houses the Fudo Myoo.

The Fudo statue dates to the Edo Period and is flanked by a Daishi and a Jizo.

From here I carried on north towards the next temple located in Yamada.

The previous post was on my walk up the mountain to get here.

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