Suwa Shrine & Mikiinari Shrine Kobe

 

Suwa Shrine is located on the lower slope of the mountains behind Kobe and is reached up a steep slope.

Though ostensibly a Suwa Shrine, as one approaches it appears to be an Inari Shrine, and the local nickname for the shrine is Suwayama Inari.

According to the legend the shrine was founded in the year 400 as protection of the detached palace of Princess Hatta or Yatta. She was the half-sister and consort of Emperor Nintoku.

As a Suwa shrine the main kami is Takeminakata, son of Okuninushi who was exiled to what is now Nagano after the transfer of the land from Onuninushi to Amaterasu.

Suwa Taisha is a major shrine with branches nationwide.

Later the mountain became named Suwayama.

However, in 1778 a branch of Fushimi Inari Shrine was established here, now known as Miki Inari.

For whatever reason the Inari identity overshadows the Suwa identity, with fox guardians guarding the Suwa shrine as well as all the numerous Inari shrines now scattered around the grounds.

One ceramic kitsune was particularly impressive.

Theer are several other shrines in the grounds other than the numerous Inari shrines, and they include a Sarutahiko Shrine.

I visited very early in the morning on day 4 of my walk along the Kinki Fudo Myoo Pilgrimage.

From here a trail leads up the mountain to the next temples on the pilgrimage.

The previous post in the series was on Ninomiya Shrine in Kobe that I visited the evening before.

Sanzo Inari Shrine

 

Sanzo Inari Shrine  lies within the grounds of Fukuyama Castle and was established at the same time as the castle in the early 17th century.

It is quite a popular shrine in the city, and was supported by the various lords of the castle.

There is a Noh stage, but I have been unable to find out any significance to the oval of white gravel that is bisected by the approach to the main hall.

Here, the main kami enshrined is, like everywhere now, officially Uganomitama, a daughter of Susanoo.

Jointly enshrined here are Sarutahiko and Uzume, though Uzume is given a different name.

As is common at most major Inari shrines there are numerous small shrines and altars to a wide variety of Inaris.

A local legend tells of a mysterious samurai guard who would appear when the daimyo was travelling and who claimed to be Sanzo a manifestation of Inari from this shrine.

The shrine has a unique festival when the Miss Sanzo Inari Beauty Contest chooses three young, unmarried women to serve as Miko during the new year.

The previous post was on the neighbouring garden, the Fukuju Kaikan Garden.

Rendaiji Temple 6 Chugoku Kannon Pilgrimage

 

Rendaiji, the 6th temple on the Chugoku Kannon Pilgrimage, is a large complex located high on Mount Yuga in the Kojima area south of Kurashiki and Okayama.

It was a syncretic site known as Yuga Daigongen until modern times but has now split into Rendaiji Temple nd Yuga Shrine, though they both occupy the same site.

In the Heian Period it was one of three sites that were called New Kumano, this site being the equivalent of Nachi Taisha.

Long a site of pilgrimage, the approach to the shrine-temple complex has a temple town with long street lined with souvenir shops.

I arrived by following the old pilgrimage trail from the north and the first things I saw were the statues of the Seven Lucky Gods. The tradition here is that you write your prayer or wish on a white stone and leave on the statue.

Also in this area was a newish Fudo statue, but much more of Fudo is to come......

In one hall is this striking statue of Dakiniten, a Buddhist  goddess with Hindi roots that has become synonomous with Inari in Japan. Two great Dakiniten temples are commonly known as Inari, Toyokawa Inari in Aichi, and Saijo Inari near here in Okayama.

Dakiniten is often associated with foxes and sometimes depicted riding a white fox. The association with foxes seems to be behind much of the association of Dakiniten with Inari.

In this part of the temple is also this magnificent statue of Fudo Myoo, the biggest wooden Fudo in all of Japan, and possibly the world.

It was unveiled in 2007 and is about 7.5 meters tall. You can see more on this earlier post.

Rendaiji was siad to have been founded by the famed monk Gyoki in 733. He enshrined a Kannon and Yuga Daigongen.

In the late Heian Period the complex was destroyed by fire.

It was rebuilt in the Muromachi Period, but really grew in stature during the Edo Period when it became a major pilgrimage destination.

Yoga Daigongen was a deity that offered protection against misfortune, and it became paired with the Konpira Daigongen across on Shikoku. A pilgrimage to both sites became very popular.

The Guest Hall, or, Reception Hall dates back to the very end of the 18th century.

It boasts an impressive collection of painted screens by some well known artists and also offers views of the garden

It is free to enter and I am disappointed I did not.

In many placdes where a temple and shrine were seperated, they now sit adjacent to each other, but here thye shrine part is in the middle of the Buddhist part. After passing through the shrine you come to the second area of the temple and here is the Kannon Hall, pictured in photo 1 above, and also the Daishi Hall below. I will cover the shrine, with its unusual ceramic torii, in the next post in the series.

Also on this side of the complex is an area devoted to Mizuko Jizo.

Also in this part of the complex is the pagoda. In Tahoto style associated with Shingon.

The original pagoda collapsed during a storm in 1670, and was rebuilt during the 1830's and 40's. It is said to be the biggest pagoda in Okayama.

Officially seperated in 1868, the shrine and temple began again to operate as one entity after 1945, however in the lat 1990's a duispute arose between the shrine and temple that continues to this day.

The head priest of the temple and the head priest of the shrine are brothers, which may explain the dispute somewhat.

The previous post in this series on my walk along the Chugoku Kannon Pilgrimage was on the old  pilgrimage trail leading to Rendaiji.