Wakaura Tenmangu Shrine

 

The steps up to Wakaura Tenmangu Shrine are steep and rough, but not as long as the stairs up to the neighboring Kishu Toshogu Shrine.

Wakaura Tenmangu is older than the Toshogu by about 7 centuries, although the Tenmangu was rebuilt about ten years before the Toshogu was built in the 17th century.

Enshrining Tenjin, the deified form of Sugawara Michizane, known as a god of poetry and scholarship, Tenmangu shrines are where students head to before taking exams.

It is said that Michizane himself was here in 901 when the ship taking hime to "exile" in Dazaifu dropped anchor here to await favorable winds. He is said to have composed two poems here.

Wakaura, or Wakanoura, literally means Bay of Poetry, and Michizane was adding to a long list of poems composed in the area since ancient times.

It is said that Naoki Tachibana stopped here on his return from Daizaifu, where Michizane's grave was, sometime between 964 and 968, and established the shrine.

The shrine was destroyed in 1585 during the invasion of the area by Hideyoshi. It was rebuilt in 1604 by Yukinaga Asano and employed the leading craftsmen of the day.

The painted carvings of animals around the eaves of the main building are particularly noteworthy. There are several sub-shrines within the grounds, and great views from the shrine over Waknoura.

The previous post in this series on attractions of Wakayama City was the neighbouring Kishu Toshogu Shrine.

Former Obama Railway

 

Heading north from the hot spring resort of Obama along the coast of Tachibana Bay I followed a coastal road, route 201.

It turns out it was formerly a railway line and passed through some very narrow cuttings and tunnels.

It must be somewhat of a tourist attraction as I passed by what I presumed to be a local tv station filming a segment.

The  Unzen Railway was formed by joining together 2 smaller lines, the Obama Railway and the Onsen Postal Railway, in 1930, and was closed down 2 years later and subsequently turned into a road.

The total length was 17 kilometers, with 9 stops.

The previous post in the series was Obama Snapshots

Along the River to Tazu

 

The couple of kilometers of road along the bank of the Gonokawa River from Kawado to Tazu has no settlements or houses.

On the opposite bank, there is a main road and plenty of settlements but on this side, the steep mountainside runs straight down to the river.

This bank is usually dark. Even in the summer the sun does not get above the mountain until late in the morning, and in winter the sun doesn't penetrate the tree cover at all. On the opposite bank, the sun continues to burn off the mist that fills the river valley at this time of the year (early October)

The narrow road and abandoned rail line run next to each other on a narrow shelf cut into the mountainside using very little machinery. At times the train line passes through short tunnels.

The Gonokawa is the longest river in the Chugoku region at 194 kilometers, but geologically speaking it is relatively new so the river valley is mostly narrow.

This used to be such a beautiful train ride, but is still a very pleasant walk as there are only 1 or 2 cars a day. Up ahead I catch a glimpse of the Tazu Bridge, a small affair unsuitable for anything bigger than small delivery vans.

The previous post was on the first part of this leg of my walk along the Gonokawa, around Kawado.

Across & Over Shimabara Peninsula Day 62 Kyushu Pilgrimage

 A Walk Around Kyushu 

Day 62 Shimabara to Obama

Thursday February 20th 2014

I'm up early to another fine day with clear blue skies, though the peak of Mount Unzen is draped with a cap of clouds clinging to the snow on the peak. I will be passing over that range today so I set off early. First I head a little south to the UnzenDisaster Memorial Museum that commemorates the most recent eruption of Unzen back in 1996. I had been here before, and it is way too early for it to be open, but near the museum proper is another site that I had missed before. Many of the houses that were buried underthe mudslide are on display, some outdoors, some in a covered building. They actually look very weird because they have no damage, they are just buried with roofs and telegraph poles sticking out. Apparently, the mudflow, formed out of a mixture of ash and the extra runoff from heavy rains falling on the fresh lava, was only moving at a slow rate by the time it got here to the coast so people were able to evacuate slowly and safely, and the force of the flow was not strong enough to demolish the houses, just engulf them. All a bit surreal.

I now turn inland and head towards the mountains. For the first few hours, it is a fairly gentle slope until I reach Ryusho-ji, the 64^th temple of the pilgrimage, and the reason for coming down onto the Shimabara Peninsula. Towering over the entrance to the temple is a huge statue, a brightly colored statue of Fudo Myo-O, and the main temple building is completely covered in blue tarps hiding the reconstruction. Piles of new roof tiles are stacked y the temple office. For a donation towards the rebuilding, you can have your name etched into a tile. From the temple, the road starts to become steep and then starts to wind itself into switchbacks. In the shadows piles of snow remain unmelted and the temperature drops. There is no sidewalk and a fair bit of traffic so that adds to the lack of fun in this part of the walk.

Eventually, I cross over the pass and start to drop into Unzen Hot Spring, a small resort little more than one street. Steam rises all around with the unmistakeable odor of rotten eggs. Even though it is out of season and most of the resort hotels seem closed up for the winter I find a bakery and settle in for a top up of caffeine and calories. Rejuvenated and rested I wander and find a boardwalk that meanders through the steaming andbubbling pools that have dozens of pipes snaking away from them to the hotels. The smell does not get any more pleasant. There may be more to see in the town but I need to get going as I am only a little over halfway to my destination, though it should be all downhill from now on to the shore of Tachibana Bay.

It turns out that the western slope of Unzen is much steeper than the eastern. There is no gentler slope as it gets further down, it is switchbacks all the way. I soon catch glimpses of Tachibana Bay through the trees, and there is less traffic on this side, so its a very pleasant walk. About three quarters of the way down I pass through a small settlement, the first since leaving the top. Some of the residents are out playing gateball, a Japanese variation on croquet and very popular with retirees.  

A little further and I come to something quite unexpected and not marked on my map, some sort of a miniature religious theme park with the name Inori no Sato. There are no religious buildings, just a small tea room, but scattered around the grounds is a veritable who's who of popular Japanese deities. There are large statues of the Seven Lucky Gods, an Amida Buddha, several Kannon, a dragon holding a giant golden sphere, a Fudo MyoO, a kappa, a giant red Tengu mask, a small Inari shrine, and several others.

20 minutes later I reach the coast and find my room for the night, a traditional onsen ryokan that has seen better days but is priced for my budget. I think I am the only guest as it is out of season. In the last rays of the setting sun I explore the onsen resort town of Obama.

The most notable feature is the longest foot bath in Japan. 105 meters long, one meter for each degree of water temperature. I soak my feet for a while before heading back to my room. The ryokan has recently refurbished the rotenburo, the outdoor bath, and I have the whole place to myself.

The diary from the previous day, day 61, is here.

Weeping Cherry of Senjuin Temple

 

Senjyuin Temple to the northeast of Matsue Castle is a hidden cherry blossom viewing spot.

The temple was moved here from Gassan Toda, the site of the original domain castle and rebuilt here when the new Matsue Castle was built. It occupies the strategic NE position to protect the castle from evil influences in much the same way that Enryakuji protects Kyoto.

It has some regular cheery trees but the pride of place is a shidare zakura, a weeping cherry, said to be at least 200 years old.

The venerable tree has its branches supported by a framework of bamboo and there were a couple of photographers there taking pics of the ephemeral blossoms. I did not know it was blooming before I visited.

I have visited Senjyuin Temple numerous times, and as a temple on the Izumo Kannon Pilgrimage I posted about it a long time ago.

The previous post in this series exploring Matsue was the nearby Togaku Zen Temple and its intriguing statues.

Obama Onsen Snapshots

 

Obama Onsen is a small. coastal hot spring resort on the West coast of the Shimabara Peninsula in Nagasaki, Kyushu.

I stayed in a small. family-run ryokan with a recently renovated outdoor bath but the town also has plenty of larger hotel-style accomodation.

Known for its sunset views, it main claim to fame is having the hottest and most active hots springs in the country.

You can't go far on the Japanese coast without finding one of the spots where the ubiquitous tetrapods are made.

Typical of many seaside parks, Obama had a large, sculptural-type monument near the longest foot bath in Japan.

There was a very small fishing harbour with huge concrete walls and breakwaters

Shunyokan is a classic onsen hotel from the early Show period about 100 years ago//

Looking north, my route the next day, up Tachibana Bay

The previous post was on Obama Shrine.

Anrakuji Temple Mima

 

Anrakuji is the oldest temple of the Jodo Shinshu, True Pure Land Sect, in all of Shikoku and is located in the administrative city of Mima along the Yoshino River in Tokushima.

Known locally as Akamonji, literally "red gate temple", because of the impressive gate which was built in 1756. It and several other buildings in the temple are registered as Important Cultural Properties.

It was founded around 1256 when an existing Tendai Temple, Shinnyoji, which had been in existence since the Heian Period was converted to Jodo Shinshu and renamed.

Anrakuji is located in a Teramachi- a cluster of large temples- though most teramachi were Edo-period creations whereby new castle towns built all their temples in one district, this one is located in a rural area and has been an area of temples since ancient times.

In fact the ruins  of one of the first temples ever built in Shikoku are located nearby, adjacent to some late burial mounds indicating that this was an important political center in ancient times.

The previous post in this series on my third day walking the Shikoku Fudo Myo Pilgrimage was Mima Snaphots.