Okameyama Fukuoji Temple 12 Iwami Kannon Pilgrimage

 

Day 7 of my walk along the old Iwami Kannon Pilgrimage, and for the first time I have crossed into Hamada Domain from the Shogunate-cotrolled Ginzan Domain. During the Edo Period the old province of Iwami was basically divided by the Gonokawa River.

I'm heading up the Yato River and after leaving Oda there is a small tunnel through to Ichiyama, the next main settlement on this side of the river.

On the opposite bank is a huge Zelkova tree overhanging the river. This is a suijin altar, and in May during the Suijin Festival the priest will visit here and the local people will leave a giant purification wand, an Onusa. In the old days they would have come here by boat but since the Yato River was dammed it is no longer navigable.

Ichiyama is named after the high point in the photo above. There are the ruins of a very small castle on the top.

The new road that bypasses the actual village is lined with azalea bushes which look great at this time of the year.

On the opposite bank this grove of riverside bamboo is a favorite gathering spot for all the local egrets in the evening as the sun sets and they settle in for the night as a flock.

And then Eno comes into view. It is not a large settlement, yet is home to two temples, one of which is the one I am to visit.

After crossing the river I look towards the mountains where I will be heading next.

For such a small hamlet, Fukuoji is quite a substantial temple, and I have been unable to find out why.

It is a Soto Zen temple, and I believe it was founded in the 14th century.

The local story is that the village headman found a statue of Kannon on a giant turtle in a pool in Senjokei, a gorge with many waterfalls a few k upstream from Eno.

He then established the temple and installed the statue as the honzon.

One day I may get around to asking a local historian about the temples history......

The previous post was on Oda Hachimangu Shrine...

Kojoji Temple 11 Chugoku Kannon Pilgrimage

 

The 11th temple on the Chugoku Kannon Pilgrimage is located on an island in the Inland Sea between Hiroshima and Shikoku.

Kojoji is a Soto Zen temple that was founded in 1403, though at the time it was founded as a Rinzai Zen Temple.

It is said to have been founded by the Zen Master Daido who founded Buttsuji, incidentally the next temple on the pilgrimage.

At the height of its power it was home to 100 monks.

It fell into disuse but was revived in the early 17th century when it was converted to Soto.

Some of the temple buildings burned down in early Meiji and others were dismantled.

Only the Pagoda, gate, bell tower and kitchen remained.

In 2010, a new Main Hall was built.

The star of the temple is the pagoda dating back to 1432 and is rightly registered as a National Treasure.

My understanding and recognition of historical Japanese architectural styles and details is somewhat limited, but most sources mention that the pagoda is in Zen style that includes various Chinese elements.

Kojoji is a little off the beaten track, and other than the pagoda there is not actually a lot to see, however if you are visiting nearby Kosanji then it might be worth a look.

The previous post in the series was on the walk from Innoshima Island to Ikuchijima Island.

Entsuji Temple 7 Chugoku Kannon Pilgrimage

 

Entsuji is a small Soto Zen temple on a hillside near Kurashiki.

It is the 7th temple on the Chugoku Kannon Pilgrimage and also number 17 of the 24 Flower Temples of Sanyo, as well as being on the Bitchu Asakuchi Pilgrimage and the 108 Kannon Pilgrimage.

Though not large it has a delightful garden on the approach and several buildings are thatched.

There is no extant record of exactly when the temple was founded, but it is sid to have been by Gyoki in the 8th century.

At the nd of the 17th century it was rebuilt and established as a Soto sect temple named Entsu-an and about ten years later renamed Entsuji.

The honzon is a Shokannon, said to be carved by Gyoki himself. Shokannon has only one face and only two arms and is usually holding a lotus blossom. I believe it is a secret buddha here.

Entsuji is most famous for being the temple where the mink-poet Ryokan lived for ten years.

Taigu Ryokan (1753-1831) was born in what is now Niigata. While training at a local temple he was impressed with a visiting monk and asked to become his disciple. They returned to Entsu-ji.

I can't comment on his poetry as I am not at all a poetry buff, but while doing research I did come ton feel an affinity for his life and attitude. My favorite story is that because he was banned from attending Bon Odori festivals as he was a monk, he used to dress as a woman and sneak in.

Several of the structures are thatched, including the main hall. Built in the mid-18th century, it is unusual in that it has not been altered in the succeeding centuries.

I wish I had spent more time exploring here.

I also wish I had seen the garden in late spring when the azaleas were in bloom.

The previous post in this series on day 9 of my walk along the Chugoku Kannon Pilgrimage was on the former Yunoki Residence & Garden, a wealthy merchants property in the town below.

Chokoji Temple 10 Iwami Kannon Pilgrimage

 

Chokoji is a Soto sect Zen temple in a remote area of Iwami that has a deep connection with the Iwami Ogasawara Clan.

The temple was founded in the 14th century and seems to have been originally a site founded by the clan as a spot for samurai to recover from wounds. A wooden pillow held by the temple was a gift from Ashikaga Yoshitane to Ogasawara Nagataka for his help in the Battle of Kyoto in 1508

The Ogasawara were not a big clan but were given the domain to protect the Iwami coast following the Mngol Invasions. As the Warring States Period increased the power of the nearby Amago and Ouchi Clans the Ogasawara switched allegiances several times and eventually submitted to the Mori.

Chokoji was the family temple for the clan. The honzon is a Shaka Nyorai, and the Kannon for the pilgrimage is in its own Kannon-do (photo 6).

Nowadays, it is known primarily for the huge Gingko tree in the grounds that creates a golden carpet in late Autumn. I highly recommend this post on the autumn colors here.

The previous post was on the walk to Chokoji from Kannabiji.

Yomeiji Temple Garden

 

Yomeiji is a Soto Zen temple in the former castle town of Tsuwano in the mountains of western Shimane.

It was founded in 1420 and has been the family temple for successive lords of the domain since then.

It has a thatched roof and many "treasures" to be seen, but for now I will concentrate on the garden.

Actually there are two gardens, with the last two photos of this post showing the older garden in front of the main hall.

It, however, can only be seen from a distance, though it is said that in earlier times a corridor surrounded it.

The main garden is to the rear of the priests residence.

It is not known when the garden was created nor who designed it.

The temple was rebuilt in the mid 18th century following a major fire, so it is believed the garden dates from that time.

The main focus is a Turtle Island connected by a bridge in a Koi pond.

A small waterfall runs in the hillside behind.

While the garden can be enjoyed from within the main viewing room, it is actually a stroll garden so can be explored a little.

The temple is located a short walk up a small valley off of the main area of town and is well worth a visit, especially with the Fall foliage.

Entry is only 300 yen and includes access to the temples Treasure House.

The garden is suitable for viewing all year round. These photos were taken over several visits at different times of the year.

In the next post in this series I will show the architecture and art of Yomeiji.

The previous post in this series exploring Tsuwano was on the Sagimai Heron Dance held every year.