Tenei Hachimangu

 

3rd of May, 2014, and my final stop of day 9 of my walk along the Iwami Kannon Pilgrimage was a fairly standard village shrine in Mito Onsen, in the Chugoku Mountains near Masuda.

There was no signboard, and I have been unable to unearth any information searching the web.

Plenty of small shrines within the grounds, almost certainly moved there in the early 20th century when local shrines were moved to national shrines.

Stone zuijin are not si common, and this one is quite recent.

As with most village shrines in Iwami, it is set up for annual kagura performaces...

Also unusual were the wooden masks, I suspect there is a mask-carver in the neighbourhood

The previous post in this series was on the day's walk through the remote mountains with an emphasis on wild harvesting...

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Kannonji Temple 27 Iwami Kannon Pilgrimage

 

Kannonji is located in Gotsu Honmachi, the old, original town, slightly upstream from the mouth of the Gonokawa River.

Overlooking the old part of town, it is a Rinzai Zen temple, but can find no other information at all

This was the final stop for day 37 on the Chugoku Kannon Pilgrimage, and day 18 on the Iwami Kannon Pilgrimage. This was the last day I walked them both concurrently. From day 38 I will be back to just walking the Chugoku.

The previous post was on the walk along the beach into Gotsu.

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Along the Beach to Gotsu

 

After the temple and shrines in Tsunozu, the next stop is a temple in Gotsu Honmachi and so head off down the small coast road rather than the main road.

When I can I opt to continue along the beach rather than the road....

It's late November and the sea is much more active than usual.

Most of this post will be shots of the wavy sea.....

I pass Majima where I had stopped and explored at the start of the days walk....

The final few photos are not seashots.... peering inside a collapsing wooden garage I found this incredible old American car of some kind..... so much rust that I doubt it could be renovated.....

As I get cose to the mouth of the river a Heron......

And then the final photo, one of the few traditional buildings left in Gotsu. A traditional confectionary-cake-dessert shop..... never actually been inside, though it does garner rave reviews....

The previous post in this series on day 37 of my walk along the Chugoku Kannon Pilgrimge was on a couple of shrines in Tsunozu.

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Kakinomoto Shrine & Tsunozu Otoshi Shrine

 

Kakinomoto Hitomaro is the greatest of the ancient poets and is worshipped as the kami of poetry.

He was a low-ranked bureaucrat from Yamato who was posted here as acting governor around the end of the 7th century. He maried a Tsunozu  girl known now as Yosomi no Otome. Whereas Kakinomoto is considered the most prominent of the poets in the Manyoshu, Yosomi was the female poet with the most entries in that anthology.

There is actually very little known for sure about Kakinomoto. One historian I like  suggests that being sent to Iwami was an exile for being on the wrong side of a succession dispute at court. He suggests that he was poisoned while here and as it was a political murder Kakinomoto was elevated after death to placate his angry ghost.

There used to be a huge, old pine tree here but it was cut down not too long ago for safety reasons. A cross section of the trunk is on display inside one of the shrne buildings. Masuda, down the coast aways, claims to be where Kakinomoto died. There are several of his poems that have been inferred to have been wriyyen about the Gotsu area, including one spot just downriver from my place. Kakinomoto and Yosomi are mascots for Gotsu.

From here it is just a short walk to the main shrine of Tsunozu, yet another Otoshi Shrine.

I have been here quite a few times for their annual matsuri parade. A video and photos of the Miko Mai dance is here. I met the priest soon after moving to Shimane, and am still using the desk he gave me.

In front of the shrine are a couple of small Buddhist altars with colourful statues. They are part of a miniature 88 "temple" pilgrimage around the town and hills.

According to the shrine records it was established in the late 9th century. It moved to its current location in 1711. It is one of the half dozen Otoshi shrines in the region that might be the one listed in the Engi Shiki.

An ancient ritual called Yatate that dates to the time of looking out for signs of Mongol invasion. Samurai would shoot an arrow at a target on a pine tree at the entrance to the shrine. The ritual was discontinued in the Meiji Period.

Sunsiduary shrines in the grounds are Kotohira Shrine, Omoto Shrine, and Itsukushima Shrine.

Like most shrines in the Gotsu area, but not inland in the mountains, there is a Kaguraden. All-night kagura takes place on October 31st and mikoshi parades and miko mai on November 1st. Kids get the day off school.

The previous post was on Taiheiji Temple not far away, just across the river in Ninomiya.

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Taiheiji "extra" Temple Iwami Kannon Pilgrimage

 

Tucked away in the outskirts of Ninomiya, Taiheiji is a surprisingly substantial temple.

It is a Soto Zen temple, but I could find no other historical info.

Except that just over the hill is Tabato Shrine, the Ninomiya, second-ranked shrine, of Iwami, and that Taiheiji, under a different name, was one of five temples connected to the shrine.

Of course in 1868 they were seperated.

I have no idea what was inside this tree "room"....

From the temple I cross over the tiny river and thereby enter Tsunozu.

I quite like Tsunozu. It has an old town with lots of alleys and old buildings....

I head for the first of two shrines in the town....

The previous post in this series on day 37 of my walk along the Chugoku Lannon Pilgrimage and day 18 of Iwami Kannon Pilgrimage was on Uyagawa and the Kuroki Shrine...

If you would like to subscribe by email just leave your email address in the comments below. It will not be published and made public. I post new content almost everyday, and send out an email about twice a month with short descriptions and links to the last ten posts.