Nishoyamada Shrine

 

Nishoyamada Shrine, located next to Kanyoji Temple, the next temple on the Chugoku Pilgrimage for me, has a delightful, long approach with plenty of Autumn colours....

The shrine was created in 1907 by the merging of two shrines,  Nisho Daimyojin and Yamada Gonzensha

This was at the peak of the governments program to drastically reduce the number of shrines in the country.

Other shrines in the grounds that were moved here around the same time is a large shrine to Sugawara Michizane, commonly referred to as Tenjin. There is aaslo a small Kibune Shrine and a Gokoku Shrine, the local version of Yasukuni, the modern shrine enshrining war dead.

The Nisho Shrine was established in 899. moved in 1262, and then moved to its current location in 1674.

The primary kami are Omononushi and Yachihoko, which is curious as they are both aliases of Okuninushi.

Secondary kami associated with the former Nisho Shrine are Sukunahikona, Susano, Kagutsuchi, Kotoshironushi, Ichikishimahime, and Kakinomoto Hitomaro. Most are considered the Izumo pantheon, though Kakinomoto is a curiosity.

Yamada Shrine was established in 1292, but a theory is that it existed much earlier as a clan shrine and in the 13th century was made a branch of Ise Shrines.

The primary kami are Amaterasu and Toyoke.

The secondary kami are Amenokoyane, Ukemochi, and Sarutahiko. Okuninushi and Susano are also listed as secondary kami of the former Yamada Shrine.

In 1906 the head priest started manufacturing omikuji as a source of income and now the company produces 70% of all omikuji in Japan. They also invented the machines for dispensing omikuji at unmanned shrines. Omikuji were originally something developed in Tendai temples connected with Kannon, and during the Edo Period spread by Yin Yang diviners. Shrines started to promote them around the early 20th century

The shrine is located in Shunan City, Yamaguchi, though actually it is quite a remote area in the mountains about 25k north of Tokuyama.

It is close to the expressway, and there is an infrequent bus from Tokuyama that comes to the temple next door.

The previous post was on the glorious walk up the river to get here.

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Takuhi Shrine in the Oki Islands

 

Takuhi Shrine is possibly the most famous of all the shrines on the Oki Islands, considering that during the Edo Period both Hakusai and Hiroshige, two of the most pre-eminent artist of the times, did prints of the shrine and its founding legend.

Situated high on 452 meter high Mount Takuhi which is the central peak of the submerged caldera that has formed the Dozen group of islands, the shrine has expansive views over the surrounding seas and islands.

Getting there involves a hike up a mountain trail which passes several smaller shrines on the way.

Known as the "Burning Lights" shrine, the legend is that three fireballs arose from the sea and flew into the cave where the shrine now stands.

Another story has it that when Emperor Gotoba was on his way here to exile his ship was lost and a light from the shrine saved him.

The origin stories most likely relate to the practice of signal fires and temple and shrine  lanterns being used by sailors to navigate at night. Takuhi Shrine became well known as a shrine offering protection on sea journeys.

The honden of the shrine is built into a small cave and is said to be the oldest building on the Oki Islnds.

It was built in 1732, prefabricated in Osaka and then shipped here and carried up the mountain to be reassembled.

It, along with the main hall are registered Important Cultural Properties.

The ornate carvings only appear on the front and one side of the structure, with the two unseen sides remaining plain.

By the 14th century it had become a Shugendo site and Unjoji Temple was set up with a Jizo as honzon.

The combined site became known as Takuhi Gongen until the early Meiji Period when most traces of Buddhism were removed.

The kami enshrined here is now listed as Ohirumenomuch, more commonly known as Amaterasu the Sun Goddess. Originally the mountain itself was considered the kami. For most of its history the primary deity was a Jizo.

There are numerous smaller shrines dotted around mountainside.

On one visit I was accompanied by the head priest whose family were originally Buddhist priests serving the complex.

The former priests house not far from the shrine is now used as the shrine office. It is a fine example of a traditional large house .

While chatting with the priest he showed me this painting of a Tengu. According to our chat he said that the highest shrine on the mountain was a Sanjin Shrine dedicated to Tengu. However, upon some research it turns out that the sanjin concept was created by Hirata Atsutane in the 19th century.... He also showed me a print of Izuna Daigongen which at the time I described as Tengu Dakiniten Fudo Myoo.

The previous post in this series on the Oki Islands was on the kagura performed in the area.

Hayashi Kumano Shrine The First Kumano Shrine?

Hayashi Kumano Shrine

This was a completely unexpected site I visited while heading down towards the next pilgrimage temple, Rendaiji. From the first torii up to the main shrine buildings was quite a distance and around the shrine was a lot of open space.

I now believe this area was until around 1868 filled with many Buddhist structures, the three-storey pagoda remaining.

The arrangement of the shrine was also unusual, with a long line of 13 hondens in 4 structures.

Originally called Kumano Junisha Gongen, and renamed Kumano Shrine in 1868, the junisha refers to the 12 kami enshrined in the line of hondens, the 12 kumano kami plus a local protective kami.

According to the founding legend, in 699 the famed mystic and legendary founder of Shugendo was exiled to Izu. A group of 5 of his disciples carried the spirit of what is now Hongu Taisha shrine in Kumano and eventually, in 701, decided upon this spot to found a new shrine. This is why the shrine now claims to be the very first "Kumano" shrine.

The five disciples also founded 5 temples in the area and this became a major shugendo centre with two other sites in the area for a Shin Kumano.

The shrine temple complex went through cycles of destruction like most major religious centres and the oldest remaining structure is the one called Second Hall. It was rebuilt in 1492 and is a National Important Cultural Property.

The remaining structures date back to a rebuild by the Okayama  Daimyo Ikeda Mitsumasa in 1647.

The  kami are listed as Izanami, Izanagi, Amaterasu, Ninigi, Amenoshihomimi, Hikohohodemi, Ugayafukiaeizu, Haniyamahime, Kagutsuchi, Wakamusubi, and Mizuhanome.

Among the secondary shrines in the grounds are Susanoo and Ichikishima.

In 1868 the shrine was separated from all the temple structures and renamed Kumano Shrine.

In 1872 Shugendo was outlawed until 1945.

The previous post was on the remaining temples in the complex and the three-storey pagoda.

Goods From Japan