Wednesday, October 15, 2025

Hannya-ji Special Temple on the Chugoku Kannon Pilgrimage

 


With a beautifully restored thatched Nio gate, Hannya-ji Temple is located on a mountaintop between Yanai and Hirao in Yamaguchi.


When I arrived on the afternoon of the 21st November, the 19th day of my walk along the Chugoku Kannon Pilgrimage,  the autumn colours were full on.


The Niomon has a pair of fine Nio said to date to the Kamakura Period, though they have been renovayed multiple times since then. The gate itself dates to 1813.


Hannyaji is one of the extra temples added on to the 33 numbered temples.


It claims to have been founded in 567 and the temple is mentioned in documents from the late 6th century so there seems to be some basis for the date.


The temple is named after a beautiful princess, Hannyahime, and the story has several versions which I will pick and choose from for my version....


A wealthy man in what is now Oita, Manano Choja, had a beautiful daughter whose beauty was known of even in the capital. The prince who would become Emperor Yomei secretly visited the area and the couple fell in love and she became pregnant. The prince had to return to the capital and the princess said that if the child was a boy she would bring him up to the capital as an heir for the prince, but if it was a girl then she would leave her with her parents as an heir.


She gave birth to a daughter, so she left on the journey up to the capital. In the area near where Hannyaji now stands the boat encountered a storm. Some say she was washed up on shore and died shortly after, others that she sacrificed herself to the underwater Dragon King to save the lives of others. Her grave is said to be where the Kannon-do now stands.


Emperor Yomei himself ordered the construction of the temple. It is said that the statue of Kannon resembles the princess.


The view from the temple. Down below is where Princess Hannya is said to have died.


I had come across the story of Princess Hannya and her father before at several sites in Kyushu. 
Manano Choja is said to have been responsible for the founding of Renjoji Temple in Bungo Ono. His grave is said to be there. He is also said to have donated the 1,000 Medicine Buddhas there when his daughter was sick. Near to the temple is a twenty metre tall statue of the princess. I didnt photograph it at that time but have since been back and photographed it. At some point down the line I will post it.


The other site connected to Manano is further south in Usuki. It is said he paid to have the first cliff-carvings done here. Nearby Mangetsji Temple also claims to be his gravesite.


The above structure is the Myoken-do which has since been demolished. In its place a new hexagonal building, the Juo-do, has been built.


The temple was given extensive lands, but by the 14th century it had fallen into disuse and was uninhabited. Above is the Kannon Hall.


It was rebuilt and by the 15th century had grown powerful again with 120 branch temples.


It was supported by the Ouchi and then the Mori clans.


Above is the main hall enshring Dainichi Nyorai.


The bell in the bell tower, which I didnt photograph, is dated to 1255





The statue of Enma is now housed in the new Juo Hall.




The previous temple on the pilgrimage was Daisho-in on Miyajima.


The previous post in the series was on Yanai, the historical town at the base of the mountain.


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Tuesday, October 14, 2025

Futagoji Temple 1 Kyushu Fudo Myoo Pilgrimage

 


Futago-ji Temple is located right in the cemtre of the Kunisaki Peninsula in Oita.


It is the first temple of the Kyushu Fudo Myoo Pilgrimage, with a cluster of other temples of the pilgrimage also in the Kunisaki Peninsula.


I arrived here on day 5, after having visited the other temples earlier as I had been following a route that roughly followed an ancient yamabushi pilgrimage route around the peninsula in a clockwise direction.


Said to have been founded in 718, along with numerous other temples around the peninsula.


It is now considered the head temple of the Rokugo Manzan, the unique syncretic, shugendo sect.


In earlier times it was the head of the central area of the Rokugo manzan system.


In this first post I am just showing things around the lower area of the temple complex.


The main worship hall on this level is the Goma-do.


Enshrining Fudo Myoo, it was the focus of my visit.


All the photos from this point on were taken inside the Goma-do.


In the next post in the series I will cover the Okunoin and the other sights along the way to it...


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Sunday, October 12, 2025

Yanai Interiors

 


Yanai, the well-preserved town of Edo-period merchant houses and storehouses adorned with goldfish lanterns has plenty of places to enter and explore, many being free.


The Yanai Machinami Museum is housed in the former Suo Bank and offers a wealth of information on local history.


A must visit spot is the huge Sagawa Soy Sauce Brewery.


Housed in a massive wooden building, the company is still a fully operating soy sauce brewery, but also a museum.


A highlight is being able to view the huge vats of fermenting sauce. Obviously the aroma is somewhat overpowering.


They sell a wide variety of different types of soy sauce.


You can even try soy sauce flavoured ice cream.


Next door is Yanai Nishigura where you can try your hand at various local crafts, including Indigo dyeing and of course making goldfish lanterns.


Further up Shirakabe Street is the Shirakabe Gakuyukan which has changing exhibitions of local folklore in a traditional building.


The exhibits also cover some more recent history.


A covered walkway that leads to some more building to the rear passes by a delightful traditional garden.




The Kunimori House is a fine example of a merchant property dating back around 250 years.


The house is open to the public and the rooms are filled with artworks and other artifacts from daily life


Entry is a mere 200 yen.


However, the biggest site to visit in Yanai would be the Muruya no Sono Merchant House Museum.


It is huge and I covered it earlier with two posts, one on the architecture and gardens, and the second on the details and displays.




The previous post in this series on day 19 of my walk along the Chugoku Kannon Pilgrimage was on the main street of the Shirakabe District.


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