Miyajima. Glimpses of Very Familiar Japan

 

Considered one of the Three Great Views of Japan, Itsuhushima Shrine on Miyajima in Hiroshima is an iconic image of Japan.

A World Heritage site, it is also one of the most visited sites for foreign tourists in Japan, and therefore one of the most photographed.

So I apologize for posting all these photos. I normally like to focus on the less familiar sights, but the pilgrimage brings me here, so.......

Up the valley behind Itsukushima Shrine is Daisho-in, the temple that administered the shrine for a millenia.

The previous post in this series was on the curious Umi Mori Art Museum on the mountainside facing Miyajima.

Along Nagahama

 Continuing with my walk along the Sea of Japan Coast........

After leaving the roadstation at Taki Kirara I headed off along Nagahama, the long beach that runs up to near Izumo Taisha.

Sanpoko Shrine is a small, local shrine, just across from the shoreline. Can't find which kami is enshrined here though there is a small statue of Ebisu.

Not surprising as he is the kami for fishermen. Also was a Kojin straw serpent wrapped around a tree.

I have found one if these at every single shrine I have visited in Izumo, and with some shrines having more than one, which suggests that Kojin is the most common deity in this area...

A small stream with its source just a few kilometers away enters the sea.

It was a pleasant Saturday so lots of people were enjoying the beach. This was late June, 2020, and while social distancing was in operation, there was no kind of lockdown in Japan....

The beach runs pretty much all the way to the Shimane Peninsula, and according to one of Izumo's myths, the Kunibiki Story, the Peninsula was formed by "pulling" land from other areas including the Korean Peninsula.

When the god had drawn these lands together, he anchored them to Izumo with two great ropes. Nagahama was the rope that anchored the western end of the peninsula to Mount Sanbe, the volcanic peak not too far away down in Iwami.

An unusual wind farm in that the wind generators are relatively small....

The other rope that anchored the eastern end of the peninsula was the huge sandbar of Sakaiminato which connected the peninsula to Mount Daisen.

Soon I reach the mouth of the Kanda River, a main river that flows down from the Chugoku Mountains.

Not long after moving to Shimane, one of the first long-distance walks I did was a three-day walk down the Kanda River to Izumo Taisha for Kamiarizuki. One of these days I will write it up and post it.

All the waterways that pass through the Izumo Plain, between the mountains and the Shimane Peninsula, are heavily engineered with straightening and embankments etc. This whole area was the sea 10,000 years ago and in historical times was mostly marsh.

As I am going to be sleeping out on the beach I need to stock up on food and drink and the most convenient convenience store involves heading up the river a little ways and then crossing and heading to the store before coming back to the river and heading back downstream on the opposite bank.

The line of pruned trees is a windbreak protecting an old farmhouse. Called tsujimatsu, these "living walls" are unique to Izumo and traditionally use Black Pine.

A newer tradition of the area is growing grapes for the Shimane Winery.

Near the mouth of the Kanda River another river, the Shinnaito runs parallel with it before joining it. The Shin in Shinnaito suggest that this is an engineered river part of land draining and reclamation.

The fact it has massive flood control barriers also suggests that...

I have never seen cormorants so high up in a tree before....

I'm getting close to my resting place for the night. Up ahead is the famous Inasa Beach next to Izumo Taisha where all the kami of Japan arrive later in the Autumn.

Looking back, Mount Sanbe is clearly visible. The previous post in this series was on the section of coast between Tagi and Taki Kirara...

Umi-Mori Art Museum

 

Many visitors to the World Heritage site of Miyajima are curious about the unusual piece of architecture they can see on the hillside of the mainland opposite Miyajima.

technically it is the Umi-Mori Art Museum, but in reality, it is the headquarters of some kind of "new religion".

The giant golden statues sitting atop the structure seem to be Buddhist, 

Founded in 1954, and called, I believe, Byodo Daieikai, it seems to be based on the Lotus Sutra.

I had read that the organization held quite a large and diverse collection of art, so I stopped in on my way to Miyajima.

I was quite disappointed as the only things on exhibit were the collection of perfume bottles,.... not of much interest to me,.... and some paintings by the early 20th century Nihonga painter Takeuchi Seiho,. which were ok.

I had hoped to see some of their Chinese prints and Ukiyo-e. I have heard that since I visited 11 years ago they have done some renovation work and now there are two floors of exhibition space as well as a restaurant and a balcony with great views of Miyajima, and a changing series of exhibitions.

Also finished since I visited is a promenade that features a wide variety of flowers year round,,,,

When I was there, an upper part, resembling a Chinese garden, was finished and pleasant enough.

The buildings draws a lot of indignation from foreign tourists visiting Miyajima, as it seems to interfere with their idea of what Japan should appear like.

However, to my mind, having such a building visible from Miyajima is very much a reflection of real  Japanese culture....

The previous post was on my walk here down the Ota River from Mitakidera.

Yamate Amida-do & Yamate Yakushi-do Temples 78 & 17 Sasaguri Pilgrimage

 

Yamate is the central area of the narrow valley of Sasaguri through which the Tatara River, Main road, and train line runs.

The Amida Hall, number 78 of the Sasaguri Pilgrimage is sometimes known as Gosho-ji, the name of the 78th temple on the Shikoku Pilgrimage.

Obviously the Amida is the honzon of the temple, but there are also several other small halls including a Daishi Hall and a Jizo Hall.

There are also numerous Fudo Myoo statues. The Jizo Hall, the first photo of this post, seems to be more popular than the Amida. It is a Higiri Jizo, said to grant wishes on specific dates.

The next temple I visited, very close by, was across the river and back a little. The route I was taking would not be circular, rather almost a figure eight.

The Yakushido has a rather nice Atago Shogun Jizo, pictured below.

A Daishi statue and Yakushi statue are together in the main hall.

The original honzon, a small stone statue, is between them.

Once again, a multitude of Fudo Myoo's...

I've mentioned it before, but for me, the defining feature of this pilgrimage is the vast number of Fudo statues.....

The previous post in this series on my 4 day walk along the amazing Sasaguri Pilgrimage was on the mountain temple Ichinotaki, number 40 of the pilgrimage.