Kumano Brush-making Museum

 

The small mountain town of Kumano in Hiroshima is the undisputed brush capital of Japan, with about 80% of brushes made here.

Fude no Sato is a museum dedicated to the art of brush-making and is located on the hillside behind Sakakiyama Shrine.

The Kumano area was quite poor and so in the winter season the men would head up to Nara and Wakayama for seasonal work. On their way back they would buy brushes and inskstones and partially fund their journey by selling them.

They started to make the brushes in the early Edo period, but it did not really take off until the mid 19th century when three individuals created the Kumano brush industry by combiing the best elements from different brush styles from around the country.

With the advent of compulsory schooling in the early Meiji years, when every schoolchild had to study calligraphy, the business boomed and employed a large percentage of the population.

In the post-war period there was a decline in demand for calligraphy brushes and so the brushmakers moved into the very lucrative market of high-end makeup brushes.

As well as showing the wide variety of brushes made, there are also demonstrations on brush making.

It is also possible to  take short classes in brush making.

It may have changed since the time I visited, but there was almost no information in English, however, most things are easy enough to figure out.

The previous post was on Sakakiyama Shrine nearby.

Atrium at Seahawk Hotel

 

The atrium at the Seahawk Hotel in Fukuoka is huge.

When the hotel was built in 1995 it was the biggest hotel in Japan so its fitting that the atrium would be so large.

It was designed by the Argentinian-American architect Cesar Pelli.

He also designed the Osaka Museum of History that I posted on previously.

The design of the atrium is said to be based on the shape of a shell.

Movable fabric screens shiled the interior from direct sun....

The highest poit of the atrium is the huge glass wall about 40 meters in height.

Huge palm trees and flowing water are a feature...

The atrium is home to numerous shops and several eateries...

The previous post in this series on the modern architecture of Fukuoka was on the Seahawk Hotel main building.

Sakakiyama Shrine, The Brush Shrine

 

Sakakiyama Shrine is a large shrine in Kumano, Hiroshima, the brush capital of Japan.

It is said to have been founded in 933 when the spirit of Hachiman was transferred here from Usa Hachimangu.

It was called Omiya Hachiman Shrine, but in 1713 a major fire destroyed the shrine and all its records so little is known of its history before that.

The shrine was rebuilt in 1724 and the current honden dates to that time. It is considered unusually large and is often claimed to be one of the biggest hondens in Japan.

Until 2024 there was a huge Sugi tree in front of the shrine. Said to be about 800 years old.

However, only the stump remains now as it was in danger of falling, so was cut down

The current Haiden (main hall) is also quite large and dates to 1870.

The shrine is most famous nowadays for the Fude Matsuri, the Brush Festival held around the Autumn Equinox.

At this time brushes are hung around the shrine entrance, the women perform a Fude Dance, caligraphers create large works, and old brushes are ceremoniously burned. along with all the other activities normally associated with a matsuri.

The matsuri began in the 1930's when the town was wealthy from the trade of brushes and most of the townsfolk were engaged in the industry. The brush industry is much smaller now, but Kumano is still the Brush Capital of Japan.

There are numerous secondary shrines within the grounds, including a Suwa Shrine and a Sakakidani Shrine.

There is also an Aragami Shrine and an Inari shrine.

The largest secondary shrine in the grounds is a branch of Kumano Hongu. It was established about 800 years ago.

There are quite a lot of intricate carvings on the honden, attributed to the master craftsman Torii Jinbei.

The interior of the Haidan has a lot of large Ema paintings.

The previous post in this series on day 15 of my walk along the Chugoku Kannon Pilgrimage was on the walk up the valley to Kumano.