Mitarai Historic Preservation District

Mitarai at the eastern edge of Osaki Shimojima in the Inland Sea was once a major port, due in large part to its sheltered anchorage that enable many ships to safely wait for the winds to change to continue on with their journey.

The port prospered as daimyo as well as foreign embassies stopped here on their way to Edo. It also became a transhipment point in the Inland Sea and so warehouses and trading houses became established.

Mitarai was spared the development that plagued much of Japan in the latter half of the twentieth century and much of the architecture harks back to the Edo period. It is now a designated Historic Preservation District.

One of the preserved buildings is from what was perhaps the most important "product" of the town..... sex!..... at its peak about 20% of the inhabitants were prostitutes, and one of the brothels is now a tourist attraction...... more on that later....

Senko-ji, Onomichi

Senkoji is undoubtedly the most visited temple in Onomichi and is an icon of the city. Part of the Onomichi Temple Walk and temple number 10 of the Chugoku 33 Kannon Pilgrimage.

It is a Shingon temple reputedly founded by Kukai himself in 806. The main deity is a Thousand-Armed Kannon and is opened to the public every 33 years.

The temple buildings are scattered around the outcroppings of rock near the top of Mount Senkoji and great views over the town and the islands of the Inland Sea can be had.

The most famous and prominent rock is the "Jewel Rock", 50 meters in circumference and 15 meters high it is topped by a spherical "jewel" that legend says glows at night and illuminates the surrounding sea. The temple is also popular for its miniature Jizo.

Inside Diamond City

Diamond City are a chain of "cathedrals to consumption" located across Japan. This one in Hiroshima is named Diamond City Soleil.

It was built on the site of the former Kirin Brewery and elements from the old brewery can be found inside and outside.

I personally find such places rather bizarre, not only because shopping is among my least favorite activities, but they remind me so much of the settings of so many SF movies from my youth that are set in such gleaming, sterile, environments.

However, such places do offer me the opportunity to take the kind of photographs I like best, minimal, and geometric....

In Search of Autumn Color

We went in search of some autumn color last week. We could have gone 1000 kilometers north to where it is already happening, but instead we decided to go up 1,000 meters to the top of Mount Hiba on the border between Shimane and Hiroshima.

Above 1100 meters the mountain is covered in forests of Beech, Buna in Japanese, but to get to it we had to pass through a sterile forest of cedar. Actually forest isn't the right word, because they are in reality tree farms. Quite depressing, with nothing living except the bureaucrats dream of  "resources"..

Once we emerged into the beech forest though we were greeted with sunlight and birdsong.

We passed by the tomb of Izanami, the goddess who created the islands of Japan with her brother/husband Izanagi.

There was a sprinkling of color on the mountainsides, but it will be a couple of weeks before it is fully turned on.

We descended through the wide open space that will become a ski slope once the snow comes, and here susuki was spread all over......

The Southern Coast of Osaki Shimojima Island

On my second day of walking along the Akinada Islands I was on the southern coast of Osaki Shimojima heading towards Mitarai.

The road around the northern coast looked on the map to be busier, plus the view would be towards the mainland.

Here on the southern coast there was no traffic and the views were out into the Inland Sea and across to Shikoku.

This part of the island is known as a breeding ground for a species of migratory cormorant. Othere than one small village there is nothing else along the coast except citrus orchards clinging precariously to the steep slopes.

Onomichi City Museum of Art

The Museum of Art in Onomichi, Hiroshima, is located on top of the mountain overlooking the town and the nearby islands.

It was designed by world-famous Japanese architect Tadao Ando, and while the combination of modern glass and steel with the traditional curved roof is interesting, it is in my opinion not one of his better designs.

The museum hosts various changing exhibitions and has a cafe with great views.

It is possible to drive up, but the easiest way is to take the Senkoji Ropeway. The museum is a few minbutes walk from the mountaintop station.

It's open from 9 to 5 and is closed on Mondays.

Diamond City Soleil

When it opened in 2004, Aeon Mall Hiroshimafuchu Soleil, had the much snappier name of  Diamond City Soleil, which is the name it is still popularly called.

It was built on the site of the former brewery of Kirin beer, and the original smokestack/chimney has been incorporated into the mall after having been suitably decorated.

The chimney artwork is about the only thing to distinguish the "Mega Shopping Mall" from the hundreds if not thousands of others all over the globe housing products of global brands.

I have to admit that I find no attraction in such places and can only feel like a visitor from another world....

Ohama, Osaki Shimojima Island

Up at the crack of dawn I crossed over the bridge from Teshima onto Osaki Shimojima Island and started to walk around the south coast towards Mitarai.

It was so early the local inhabitants were not up and about, choosing to sit on the sea wall.....

In the village of Ohama I stopped in at the two village shrines.

There were a few small fishing boats in the little harbor but no activty....

Looking back to Ohama, the sun about to poke above the mountains...... It promised to be a fine morning walk.

Mount Senkoji Ropeway

Mt. Senkoji is only 140 meters high, but it does go right down to the sea and is fairly steep, so the ropeway is a good way to get up.

I havent been on to many ropeways that are so urban. On the way up it passes directly over a lot of houses and of course offers nice views.

Its not often you get to look down on a cemetery.

Closer to the top it passes near Senko-ji, the temple the mountain is named after.

From the top there are great views over Onomichi and across the channel to the islands...

Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum

The Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum and Park was completed in 1955 following a competition to find a design in 1949. It was designed by Kenzo Tange, and brought him to international recognition.

It is generally considered to be the first Modernist piece of architecture in Japan and is considered the birth of post-war architecture.

The park and structures are laid out along an axis that points directly to what is now referred to as the A Bomb Dome, the ruin that stands at the epicenter of the blast.

One of the focal points is the Peace Flame located at the Cenotaph.

Since its original building in 1955 many new structures and monuments have been constructed in the park. In 1994 the Tange designed Memorial Hall was added.