From Kamate to the Tanoura Coast

 

My route on day 34 of my walk along he Chugoku Kannon Pilgrimage continues up the scenic coastline of Iwami, the westernmost section of Shimane. The last pilgrimage temple was in Hagi, and the next one is in Hamada, so this is a very long section without pilgrimage temples, but with plenty of other sights to see...

When I first came to Japan I was surprised how many temples looked like fortifications, until I learned they actually were....

Those buildings right on the waterfront are a traditional  hot-spring ryokan with great views of the sunset from windows you can lean out of and fish from...... with prices accordingly... Araiso is the name ....

In Tsuchida I stopped in at the local Hachimangu Shrine before climbing up and around the headland on the tiny, narrow road.

I passed by Okami and dropped down to sea level at the huge Misumi Power Plant.

It is coal-powered, shipped from Australia and China, I think.... Japan has reserves of coal but shut down their coal industry in the 1960's to switch to cheaper oil....

There was a lot of serious construction going on to expand the port facilities as the were about to start construction of a second plant..... coal seems to figure in Japanese future plans...

Offshore, seen here at maximum zoom, is Takashima Island, about 12k away.

With almost 4k of coastline, it was inhabited until 1975, though I'm guessing not a lot of people lived there....

After crossing the Misumi River, I stopped in at the interesting Reikoji Temple before walking back to the coast. Mount Taima ahead, and Tanoura Beach....

Along the beach at where another headland protrudes into the sea is Tanoura Beach.

Popular with locals in the summer, it has toilets and showers but nothing else....

There are a couple of nice rocky outcroppings, and plenty of concrete tetrapods....

and of course, excellent views of the power plant.....

I suspect this is wakame seaweed out to dry....

The previous post was on Reikoji Temple nearby with its cool komainu carvings...

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HITOHAKU Museum of Natural History & Human Activities in Sanda

 

The next pilgrimage temple on the Kinki Fudo Myoo Pilgrimage is in Sanda, a small city in the mountains of Hyogo, not too far from Kobe and also Osaka.

However, my first stop after arriving in Sanda was a huge museum complex in a park.

It seems to be mostly a Natural History Museum and is aimed at kids.

However, the complex is huge and contains other institutions including research facilities.

Obviously my interest was in the glorious glass facade....

This actually the rear of the museum, facing a big park....

The entrances are on the other side.

I have been unable to find out who the architect was, although I believe it is an adaptation of an existing building.

It opened in its current form in 1992...

Particularly special for me was the section that had mirrored ceiling as well as walls...

Of course the pools of water only added......

I was hard-pressed to reduce the number of photos I used in this post from the more than 70 I took....

I will cover the interior in the next post in the series....

The previous post in this series on the Kinki Fudo Myoo Pilgrimage was on the unusual Rakan statues at Tamonji Temple.

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Reikoji Temple Misumi

 

Coming into Misumi after passing the huge power station at Okami, I stopped in at Reikoji Temple.

It is quite a bit more substantial than many local village temples, with some nice greenery, and it is now a Jodo Shinshu sect temple with a statue of Shinran, the founder of the sect.

I suspect it may have been a different sect in the past. It is one of the Hamada Domain Kannon pilgrimage temples, and Jodo Shinshu usually have Amida as honzon, so may have inherited the Kannon when it changed sects.

The carvings of the komainu on the gate were quite special, as was the small hillside landscaping. I can find no other information, unfortunately.

The previous post in this series was on Tsuchida Hachimangu Shrine...

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Fukushoji Temple Cherry Blossoms, Sacred Waterfall, & Tengu Legend

 

After crossing over the small Kamo River in  Kitsumoto, the Kiiji Route of the Kumano Kodo starts to head uphill towards the next pass, but a huge swath of cherry trees in full bloom beackon to take a small detour.

The climb up to Fukushoji Temple was well worth it, as evidenced by the large group of day-walkers also there...

Not only a ton of sakura, but great views, and a sacred waterfall....

I have to say that this section of the route, from Yuasa to Kainan, was one of the best sections of the Kumano Kodo for me....

The falls are named Urami no Taki, given that name by Yorinobu Tokugawa, the first daimyo of the Kishu Domain.

It is possible to walk behind the 20 metre high falls.....

It is said to be a bit more spectacular after a period of heavy rain, when it can be up to 30 meters wide.

Not sure when the temple was founded, but it is recorded that Kobo Daishi visited the temple in 804 and performed rituals in preparation of his upcoming trip to China.

The honzon is a Thousan-armed Kannon, but there are also a a Kokuzo and a Fudo Myoo.

The main hall dates to at least 1512, maybe earlier. The Gumonji Hall dates to 1650 as does the Bell Tower. All three are Important Cultural Properties.

The legend about the tengu is as follows..... One lived in one of the huge sacred trees behind the temple, but as it was cold in winter a local family allowed him to stay in their storehouse.

The daughter-in-law of the family would bring the tengu food, and he would respond with requests to be able to offer something in return as it was driving him crazy just taking and not being able to repay the kindness...

Eventually the daughter-in-law suggested that the uncle of the family was old and now bedridden but had always wanted to visit the Kumano Sanzan, and so the tengu carried the old man on his back down the pilgrimage trail to Kumano.

There is the imprint of a tengu foot in the floor of the veranda of the temple, though I didn't notice it...

The previous post in this series on my walk along the Saigoku and Kumano Kodo Pilgrimages was on a couple of nearby shrines connected to the introduction of mandarins into Japan.

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