Wednesday, May 21, 2025

Koryuji Bangai Temple 10 Shikoku Ohenro Pilgrimage

 


Nishiyama Koryuji Temple, number 10 of the "extra" temples known as Bangai or Bekkaku, is located a short detour from the main pilgrimage route between temple 59, Kokubunji, and temple 60, Yokomineji.


After climbing a gentle slope there are great views looking down and over Saijo City.


The road then enters the forest and starts to climb more steeply and you then cross the Miyuryu Bridge.


Arriving at the Niomon gate with its fine pair of guardians.


Whereas many temples claim Kobo Daishi as their founder, many more claim to have been founded by Gyoki, around a century before Kobo Daishi's time.


Koryuji claims to predate Gyoki, which I'm sure makes it one of the oldest temples on the pilgrimage.


It is said to have been founded in 642 and was later visited by both Gyoki and Kobo Daishi.


The honzon is a Thousand-Armed Kannon









The Daishi-do is a much more modern, concrete structure.


The current main hall was built at the end of the 14th century. It is an Important Cultural Property.


Jibo Kannon-do


A trail leads up to a small shrine enshrining Ishizuchi Gongen, Ishizuchi being the highest mountain on Shikoku and home to a large and important Shugendo centre.


I visited late in winter, but the temple is famous as an Autumn Viewing spot as it has 300 maple trees in the grounds.


The three-storey Pagoda dates to 1836.


Tuesday, May 20, 2025

Tomonoura Temple Walk Part 2

 


During the Obon period of mid-August, most of the temples in Tomonoura have curtains and lanterns displaying the temple crest.


Hosenji was quite a large temple, founded in 1358 by Daikaku Daisoji, a high-ranking priest of the Nichiren sect.


He was supported by Emperor Go-Kogon.


There remains a huge stump of a pine tree that was a National Natural Monument until it died in 1991. It is said to have been planted by Daikaku himself and was therefore more than 630 years old when it died.


Hosenji was yet another Tomnoura temple that was used as lodgings for Korean envoys.


Heading south the next temple was Nanzenbo, distinguished by its impressive bell tower gate.


Nanzenbo was established in 1573 and moved to its current location in the mid Edo Period. It is a True Pure Land sect temple.

The tower gate and main hall are both Tangible Culturl Properties. It is believed the gate was built in preparation for the 12th Korean delegation.


Next was Amidaji, but its gates were closed and it wasn't wearing decorations so I didn't go in, which is a shame as it is home to the "Great Buddha of Tomo" said to be a particularly fine and large statues of Amida.

Amidaji is a Pure Land sect temple founded in 1565. Apparently the cemetery contains some gravestones that are unique to Tomonoura.


Next up was Myoenji, originally founded as a Tendai temple in the coutryside outside Tomonoura in the 13th century and later converted to True Pure Land.


In the mid 15th century it moved to its current location after being pressured by the warlord of its area to convert to the Nichiren sect. Along with neighbouring Amidaji, it has an Edo-period bell.


Narrow lanes lead further up the hillside to the biggest and highest temple of the area, Ioji.


The biggest building is not the main hall, but rather the Mikagedo, otherwise known as the Founders Hall.


It is a Shingon temple said to have been founded  by Kobo Daishi himself in 826.


The main hall, pictured below, dates to 1685, although the bell tower is about 40 years older.


The honzon is a standing Yakushi Nyorai.


Ioji Temple is a well-known spot for getting a great view looking down on Tomonoura and especially for watching sunrise.


However, a path with about 600 steps leads much further up the hillside to the Taishiden.


From here the views are much more expansive and reach to Shikoku on clear days.


For me, however, the highlight of Ioji were the Nio guardians.


Unfortunately I can find no information on them or their age, but they are obviously quite old and therefore that eerie quality that comes with deterioration..... kind of like how I'm feeling nowadays...


Sunday, May 18, 2025

Morijuku Art Museum Gardens

 


The Morijuku Art Museum is a small, private art museum in Tsuwano, the castle toen in the mountains of Shimane.


It is housed in a large, traditional house that was the residence of the village headman of the town in the Edo Period.


The exhibition is of  paintings by Tsuwano-born artists Nakao Akira and his wife Yoshiura Maya.


Theer are also some prints by the Spanish artist Goya.


However, for myself the art was not the main interest, as  the main part of the house is open to visitors and includes three distinct gardens that can be enjoyed.


The first is the front garden to the west of the house and through which you must pass to enter.


It is a dry garden with lots of raked sand and in all probability was created when the property was renovated.


The main garden is to the east and is visible from the tatami rooms of the main house.


Apparentlt this garden was originally quite a bit larger but some of the property was sold off many years ago.


The third garden is on the south side and includes a path from the front garden to the teahouse.


The teahouse is part of the main house and can also be entered from within the house.


It is suggested that this south garden shares many features with an Izumo-style garden.


With three distinct gardens, a large traditional house to explore, and also an art exhibit, the Morijuku Art Museum is well worth a visit.


especially when you consider it has free entry.


The previous post in this series on Tsuwano was on the fall colours at Washibara hachimangu Shrine


Just outside town is quite a famous garden at the Hori Estate which I will cover later. Also in the town is a delightful garden at the thatched  Yomeiji Temple.


Even though this was a July weekend with a major event, the Sagimai Dance, ,going on, the town was not at all crowded and I had the Morijuku gardens all to myself.