Former Kyusendo Forest Museum

 

Overhanging the cliffs of the Kumagawa River, and on the opposite side of the road to the Kyusendo cave, this unusual structure used to house the Kyusendo Forest Museum.

Built in 1985, domes are rarely found in Japan, and it looks almost Middle-Eastern. It was still open when I was in the area, but I did not venture inside.

Like so many monumental buildings in rural Japan I suspect it never even came close to making any money and its upkeep would have been substantial.

Still,  the architect, construction companies, and most importantly, the concrete companies will have made a handsome profit.

Kyusendo the Biggest Cave in Kyushu

Kyusendo

Kyusendo claims to be the biggest cave in Kyushu, being more than 4 kilometers in length. Only about 800 meters of it is open to the public.

It wasn't discovered until 1973. There is a small shrine and a Buddhist altar within the cave. It is also home to thousands of bats, though I didn't see any.

Though nowhere near as impressive as Akiyoshido, the biggest cavern in East Asia, it is more impressive than a few caves I have visited in Japan. Some people like caves, some don't.

It is located on the Kumagawa River in Kumamoto, about halfway between Yatsushiro and Hitoyoshi.

Kyusendo Suspension Bridge

Kyusendo Bridge

The Kyusendo Suspension Bridge is a rather long, pedestrian brisge that crosses the Kumagawa River in Kumamoto, just below Kyusendo Cave.

The cave is on the main road from Hitoyoshi to Yatsushiro, but the railway station is on the opposite bank near a "vacation Village" of holiday cottages, etc.

There is a small road bridge a little further downstream so its possible to take a taxi from the station.

Kyusendo Vacation Bungalows Kumamoto Artpolis

 

Kyusendo is a cave located along the Kumagawa River, and on the opposite bank is a vacation village with numerous cabins and chalets. Two of them are quite unique and are part of Kumamoto Artpolis.

Kumamoto Artpolis is a prefecture-wide program that attempts to use innovative architecture as part of rural regeneration. There are about 100 projects in total and as I walk through the prefecture I have planned my route to try and visit as many of them as I can. A few days previously I had visited the Manga Museum in Yunomae.

The cube-shaped one is called Mokuban and is constructed out of huge blocks of wood and looks somewhat like a giant version of Jenga. I was able to see inside through the windows.

The second one is called Mokuban R2 and is also made out of wood, though thinner, vertical slats with gaps in between. the whole thing seems to be encased in a type of translucent resin. Photo of the interior look quite nice with lots of light, and at night when lit on the inside it looks cool from the exterior.

Shibatatehime Shrine

 

Located on the bank of the Kuma River, Shibatatehime shrine, as the suffix "hime" suggests, enshrined a maiden. As the sculpted pillar also suggests it is primarily a fertility shrine.

People pray here for fertility, safe childbirth, relief from ailments of the "lower body", and "womens problems". There is a story about the founding of the shrine that involves incest and murder.

A rich man and his daughter were traveling in the area and became exhausted. They had sex together, and next day were totally refreshed and invigorated. Later, when they again became exhausted, the daughter wanted sex again, but the father, feeling profound guilt it is said, murdered her. The shrine was established by local people to pray for the soul of the murdered daughter.

I suspect this modern version of the legend has been somewhat altered to become more palatable to late 20th century Japanese sensibilities. I seek out fertility shrines while wandering off the beaten track, and while they are far fewer than in pre-Meiji days, there are still plenty of them to be found.

On Foot down the Kumagawa

Kumagawa

On the 43rd day of my first walk around Kyushu I left Hitoyoshi and headed down the Kuma River towards Yatsushiro. The Kumagawa is classed as one of the three fastest rivers in Japan.

After Watari the valley nrrowed an there were several sections of whitewater. In season there is a lot of rafting here, but not this time of the year, late November.

As with other mountain river valleys there is a main road on one bank and a smaller, narrower road on the other. No guessing which I chose. Traffic consisted of the occasional postman on a moped, deliver truck, and a few kei trucks.

In many ways it remided me of my own river valley, the Gonokawa. I do prefer walking downhill than uphill......

Down the Kumagawa River by Boat

 

The Kuma River, or as it is commonly referred to in English, the Kumagawa River, that runs through  Hitoyoshi is classed as one of the three fastest rivers in Japan. It was also the site of disastrous floods earlier this year.

Boat trips on the river are a major tourist attraction, with primarily two courses offered, the Seiryu course from Hitoyoshi down to Watari, and the Kyuryu course from Watari down to Kyusendo. The Kyuryu is the fastest section and involves a lot of whitewater.

I took the Seiryu which is gentler and is by far the most popular. Each traditional, wooden boat has two boatmen who in the slower sections help propel the boat, and in faster sections do more steering.

Though every boat carries a loudspeaker that is pumping out music and commentary it is nevertheless a very pleasant experience.