Monday, April 20, 2026

Unpenji Temple 66 Shikoku Ohenro Pilgrimage

 


I spent the night at a minshuku at the base of Mount Unpenji. Overnight, there had been a heavy snowfall. 


I set off at first light, before the sun, as I had about 650 meters to climb to reach the temple. The trail was virgin. Not a single footstep had been made in the 6 to 12 inches of powdery snow.


After about an hour of climbing I was overtaken by a couple of younger guys who had been eating breakfast when I left the minshuku. Not only younger, but they were only carrying small day packs, so I watched them hurtle up the mountain and sat and had a cigarette break.


Unpenji Temple, the 66th of the pilgrimage is the highest of the temples at about 900 meters altitude.


Thye Niomon is very new, but not the Nio, although I can't find a date for them.


The temples origins begin with Kobo Daishi who climbed the mountain as a you man. He came back later and established the temple.


On his third visit he carved the honzen statue.


It became a well-supported temple with many branch temples on the mountain and became known as the Koya of Shikoku.


However, in the 11th century a fire completely destroyed the temple.


The temple was restored later and the new honzon, a seated 1000-armed Kannon, and a Bishamonten statue were carved.


The great warlord Motochika Chosokabe visited the temple and spoke with the priest about his plan to rule over all of Shikoku. I am guessing that therefore, Unpenji was one of the few temples in Shikoku he didn't destroy.


Most of the buildings seem to be fairly new.


I wish I had had more time to explore, as there are some fine statues inside.


The temple became much more accessible in 1989 when the Unpenji Ropeway was built.


There is actually quite a lot to see at the temple and it has extensive grounds. It is well known for Autumn colours, but for me at least, the most impressive feature was the 500 life-size statues of the Rakan, or Arhats. I gave them their own post here.


Shrine to Gosha Daigongen, the protective kami of the temple.






The previous temple I stopped at was the Bangai Temple Tsubaki-do, down below. Temple 65, Sankakuji was the previous main temple, and the previous post was on the awesome Rakan statues here at Unpenji


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