Maegamiji Temple 64 Shikoku Ohenro Pilgrimage

 

Temple 64, Maegamiji, was originally located high up on Mount Ishizuchi, the 1,982 meter high sacred mountain, highest mountain in West Japan, and a major Shugendo centre.

When En no Gyoja, the legendary founder of Shugendo was climbing the mountain in the late 7th century he encountered a man at the point he gave up trying to reach the summit. The mans words convinved him to keep going and on his way down after reaching the top and having a vision he established the temple.

Emperor Kanmu established 7 halls at the temple in the late 7th century.

Kobo Daishi is known to have visited twice.

All of this occurred at about 1,400 meters on the mountain, roughly where the modern ropeway ends.

In the Edo Period a small branch temple called Satozenjinji was built at the base of the mountain for people who could not make the tough climb up. This was where the huge Ishizuchi Shrine now stands, a little west of the current Maegami Temple.

The original temple on the mountain became known as the Okunoin.

In 1868 with the Shinbutsubunri declaration, the Buddhist sites connected to Ishizuchi either became shrines, or closed down.

After petitioning by local parishioners the current Maegami Temple was built at its current site.

In 1972 the main hall and its honzon, an Amida, were destroyed by fire and rebuilt with a new honzon which has always been a "secret Buddha."

The precincts contain a Gongen hall, a Daishi hall, a Goma hall, and a Konpira hall.

There is a waterfall for austerities with a Fudo Myoo. There are also an Inari Shrine and a Benzaiten Shrine.

The previous post in the series was on Temples 62 & 63.

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Tenyozan Kannonin Houjuji Temple 62 Shikoku Ohenro Pilgrimage

 

Houjuji, temple 62 of the Ohenro, is only one and a half kilometers from the previous temple, number 61 Ko-onji. It is in a cluster of pilgrimage temples close together in Saijo, Ehime.

I arrived here early in the morning on 17th February, 2012, day 38 of my walk along the pilgrimage.

It is a Shingon temple and the honzon is an eleven-faced Kannon.

Photo taken in 2012 of the previous main hall. It still stands but is now blocked off by a big modern building housing the temple office.

The temple was founded in the mid-8th century when Emperor Shomu had a shrine built about one kilometer north of the current location.

Enshrining Okuninushi, Oyamatsumi, and Kotoshironushi, it was the Ichinomiya of the province.

The shrine is the okunoin of the temple and is now located just across the road (final photo)

A small temple was built next to the shrine and named Kongoho-ji.

Later, when Kobo Daishi visited, he carved the Kannon statue and renamed the temple Houjuji.

The temple suffered repeatedly from the Nakayama River flooding.

The temple was destroyed during Hideyoshi's invasion in 1585

In 1636 the temple was relocated to its current location.

Pilgrims would pray first at the shrine and then chant sutras at the temple, so in 1679 the lord demanded the shrine be relocated to its current location closer to the temple.

In 1868 the shrine and temple were officially separated and the temple abandoned.

It was rebuilt in 1877.

At the same time a small Inari shrine was established in the grounds ( photo 6 )

For some years the temple was in dispute with the official pilgrimage association, but I believe that has been resolved.

The previous temple was number 61, Ko-onji.

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Ko-on-ji Temple 61 Shikoku Ohenro Pilgrimage

 

Ko-onji Temple is quite an enigma. With claims to being one of the oldest temples on the pilgrimage, the architecture is without a doubt the most modern.

Said to have been founded by Shotoku Taishi in the late 6th century, it was later visited by Gyoki, and then later still by Kobo Daishi.

He found a pregnant woman nearby suffering difficult labour and so prayed and lit incense for her. She gave birth to a healthy boy and since then the temple has been known as a place to pray for safe birth and the worship of Koyasu Daishi began.

The temple burned down and was rebuilt multiple times.

In 1976, for reasons I am unable to learn, the main hall was moved to another temple and the current structure was built.

Looking like a museum or auditorium, it is actually not too dissimilar to the latter.

With seating for more than 600, and a kind of raised stage, the huge hall doubles as the main hall and also the Daishi hall.

Numerous sources refer to it as a cathedral.

The previous temple on the Shikoku Pilgrimage was number 60, the mountaintop temple of Yokomineji.

Yokomineji Temple 60 Shikoku Ohenro Pilgrimage

 

At 745 meters above sea level, Yokomineji, temple 60, is the highest of the pilgrimage temples in Ehime, and the second highest of all the 88 pilgrimage temples.

I visited in February about 11 years ago and in the autumn there had been a major storm that severely damaged the trail up the mountain.

On the lowest slopes of Mount Ishizuchi, Yokomineji is one of the Henro Korogashi.... hard to reach temples, and with the path blocked by storm debris it was even more so ......

Said to have been founded by famed and legendary founder of Shugendo, En no Gyoja, in 651.

Gyoki, nd then a century later Kobo Daishi, also visited.

Almost to the shrine you pass the Furubo Jizo-do. There used to be a small settlement in the area as during the Edo period this was a well travelled road.

Yokomineji has quite a complex history not made easier by the reconfiguring of the Jaoanese religious landscape in the latter half of the 19th century.

When Enno Gyoja founded it he carved a statue of Zao Gongen, the main deity of what is now Shugendo. Later when Kobo Daishi came he carved a Dainichi statue and made it the "main image".

What seems certain is that it was a syncretic site with both kami and Buddhist elements. A report from the 17th century writes of a Zao Gongen main shrine, and a Kaisan-do dedicated to Sekisen, and a hall dedicated to Dainichi and Kobo Daishi.

In early Meiji all the Buddhist elements were removed and a new temple hall built near the Niomonto house them. This was called Omineji.

What was Yokomineji Temple became a branch shrine of Ishizuchi Shrine and a temple at the base of the mountain became the 60th pilgrimage temple.

By 1909 it was reinstated as Yokomineji Temple, though the observant notice that the architecture remains shrine-style.

The statue a few photos above is a Hoshiku Daishi. Holding a sword, I believe this represents Kobo Daishi performing a star ritual when he visited here. It stands on the site of the former Kaisan-do.

I did not spend much time exploring as it was very cold and there didn't seem to be anyone around. I certainly saw no other pilgrimas.

As I was about to leave it started snowing. 

On the way down I stopped in at Tsumashiro Daimyojin Shrine.

The guardian deity of the temple, many of the crude torii had rotted and collapsed.

The previous temple on the pilgrimage was Koryuji, the 10th bangai temple.