Konjiji Temple 12 Shikoku Fudo Myoo Pilgrimage

 

Konjiji, temple number 12 on the Shikoku Fudo Myoo Pilgrimage, is a mountaintop temple with a strong Shugendo past.

It is also the okunoin of Dainichiji, the 13th temple on the famous Shikoku 88 Pilgrimage.

Like so many mountain temples associated with Shugendo, Konjiji is said to have been founded by the legendary En no Gyoja in the 7th Century.

More than a century later, Kobo Daishi visited and practised austerities and had a vision of Kongo Zao Gongen and so carved an image of him and placed it in a cave.

Each of the 36 temples on this Fudo pilgrimage has a statue of one of the 36 young acolytes called Doji. The one here is called Harahara Doji.

Susuharae is an old traditional ritual of sweeping away soot, dust, cobwebs etc from under the eaves of shrines and temples  for the new year using a takesao, a long bamboo with straw or leaf "brush" at the end. A short video of it being done ceremonially at Dazaifu Tenmangu in this old post.

The temple fell into disuse but was revived at the end of the 16th century by Hachisuka Iemasu, the Daimyo of Awa Domain. He took the Zao Gongen statue and enshrined it within the castle town but strange things happened so he made a copy and placed the copy back at Konjiji. Strange things continued to happen so he realized the statue need to be returned which is why there are two statues now.

The temple sits at an elevation of 310 meters, and has superb views down on Tokushima and the Yoshino River. I will post more of the views in the next post in the series.

About 500 meters from the main temple is a waterfall used for ascetic training. I suspect that the ladder I passed on the trail up the mountain was one way to get to the falls.

I believe the masks pictured below were carved by a famous Noh mask carver from Shiga.

The first two masks are Tengu, but the third is a Noh mask representation of Fudo Myoo

The previous post was on the way up the mountain to the temple.

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Yokomineji Temple 60 Shikoku Ohenro Pilgrimage

 

At 745 meters above sea level, Yokomineji, temple 60, is the highest of the pilgrimage temples in Ehime, and the second highest of all the 88 pilgrimage temples.

I visited in February about 11 years ago and in the autumn there had been a major storm that severely damaged the trail up the mountain.

On the lowest slopes of Mount Ishizuchi, Yokomineji is one of the Henro Korogashi.... hard to reach temples, and with the path blocked by storm debris it was even more so ......

Said to have been founded by famed and legendary founder of Shugendo, En no Gyoja, in 651.

Gyoki, nd then a century later Kobo Daishi, also visited.

Almost to the shrine you pass the Furubo Jizo-do. There used to be a small settlement in the area as during the Edo period this was a well travelled road.

Yokomineji has quite a complex history not made easier by the reconfiguring of the Jaoanese religious landscape in the latter half of the 19th century.

When Enno Gyoja founded it he carved a statue of Zao Gongen, the main deity of what is now Shugendo. Later when Kobo Daishi came he carved a Dainichi statue and made it the "main image".

What seems certain is that it was a syncretic site with both kami and Buddhist elements. A report from the 17th century writes of a Zao Gongen main shrine, and a Kaisan-do dedicated to Sekisen, and a hall dedicated to Dainichi and Kobo Daishi.

In early Meiji all the Buddhist elements were removed and a new temple hall built near the Niomonto house them. This was called Omineji.

What was Yokomineji Temple became a branch shrine of Ishizuchi Shrine and a temple at the base of the mountain became the 60th pilgrimage temple.

By 1909 it was reinstated as Yokomineji Temple, though the observant notice that the architecture remains shrine-style.

The statue a few photos above is a Hoshiku Daishi. Holding a sword, I believe this represents Kobo Daishi performing a star ritual when he visited here. It stands on the site of the former Kaisan-do.

I did not spend much time exploring as it was very cold and there didn't seem to be anyone around. I certainly saw no other pilgrimas.

As I was about to leave it started snowing. 

On the way down I stopped in at Tsumashiro Daimyojin Shrine.

The guardian deity of the temple, many of the crude torii had rotted and collapsed.

The previous temple on the pilgrimage was Koryuji, the 10th bangai temple.

Bishamonten & Other Treasures at Anyoji Temple

Bishamonten & Other Treasures at Anyoji Temple

The honzon of Anyoji Temple near Kurashiki is a golden Bishamonten.

These first six photos are taken in the main hall.

The central, golden statue is Bishamonten depicted seated, whereas he is normally depicted standing. I think the giant Bishamonten statue sitting atop the main gate is modelled on this one.

Bishamonten is, like the other Shitenno, Four Heavenly Kings, originally a Hindu deity brought into Japan through Chinese Buddhism.

Unlike the other three, Jikokuten, Zochoten, and Komokuten, Bishamonten can often be found alone, separated from the Shintenno, and is in fact one of the Seven Lucky Gods.

Also displayed in the main hall is the statue above of Ganesha in its Japanese form of Shoten or Kangiten.

As well as the main hall, the Jogando displays 31 statues, mostly of Bishamonten carved in the Heian Period.

Usually known as Tamonten when part of the Shitenno, Bishamonten seems to be his name when apart from the group.

Like all deities in Japan, both Buddhist and Kami, he has a variety of attributes and appearances though is usually depicted with a pagoda in one hand.

Like the other Shitenno he is usually depicted wearing armour, and usually with either a baton, or a spear in the other hand.

As one of the Shitenno he is considered the guardian of the north and his colour is black.

Most famously he is considered a patron and protector of samurai, and within the Shingon tradition is often equated with  Hachiman

The above statue is, I believe, of Kichijoten, wife of Bishamonten and an Indian Goddess of wealth, beauty, and fertility.

The photo above is, I believe, a modern statues of Zao Gongen. It is possible that it is now on display inside the refurbished Daishi Hall and not the main hall as when I visited.

In Japan the messenger of Bishamonten is the centipede, possibly because of the belief that centipedes can sense gold.

In Japan Bishamonten is also associated with the Tiger, probably connected to a legend about Shoko Taishi.

Usually, all four of the Shitenno are depicted with a foot on a small demon-like creature called Jyaki in Japanese.

The previous posts on Anyoji include the Dragon Kannon Hall, the Seven Lucky Gods, The Tie-cutting Fudo Myo, the unusual Pagoda,  and the Teahouse.

Onomatopia