Konjiji Temple 12 Shikoku Fudo Myoo Pilgrimage

 

Konjiji, temple number 12 on the Shikoku Fudo Myoo Pilgrimage, is a mountaintop temple with a strong Shugendo past.

It is also the okunoin of Dainichiji, the 13th temple on the famous Shikoku 88 Pilgrimage.

Like so many mountain temples associated with Shugendo, Konjiji is said to have been founded by the legendary En no Gyoja in the 7th Century.

More than a century later, Kobo Daishi visited and practised austerities and had a vision of Kongo Zao Gongen and so carved an image of him and placed it in a cave.

Each of the 36 temples on this Fudo pilgrimage has a statue of one of the 36 young acolytes called Doji. The one here is called Harahara Doji.

Susuharae is an old traditional ritual of sweeping away soot, dust, cobwebs etc from under the eaves of shrines and temples  for the new year using a takesao, a long bamboo with straw or leaf "brush" at the end. A short video of it being done ceremonially at Dazaifu Tenmangu in this old post.

The temple fell into disuse but was revived at the end of the 16th century by Hachisuka Iemasu, the Daimyo of Awa Domain. He took the Zao Gongen statue and enshrined it within the castle town but strange things happened so he made a copy and placed the copy back at Konjiji. Strange things continued to happen so he realized the statue need to be returned which is why there are two statues now.

The temple sits at an elevation of 310 meters, and has superb views down on Tokushima and the Yoshino River. I will post more of the views in the next post in the series.

About 500 meters from the main temple is a waterfall used for ascetic training. I suspect that the ladder I passed on the trail up the mountain was one way to get to the falls.

I believe the masks pictured below were carved by a famous Noh mask carver from Shiga.

The first two masks are Tengu, but the third is a Noh mask representation of Fudo Myoo

The previous post was on the way up the mountain to the temple.

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Matsubara Itsukushima Shrine & Tonoura Kotohira Shrine

 

Matsubara is the small settlement below Hamada Castle on the mouth of the Hamada River.

The shrine right below the castle and immediately next to the sea is, not surprisingly, an Itsukushima Shrine...

There is a secondary Ebisu shrine in the grounds and hanging inside the common pairing of two masks of Ebisu and Daikoku. 2 of the 7 lucky gods, the pairing has deeper significance in this region as Daikoku is read as Okuninushi, and the father-son pair of Okuninushi and Ebisu are important in Izumo mythology.

The Itsukushima shrine is a branch of the famous one on Miyajima. This one only enshrined Ichikishima and not her sisters...

The chikaraishi stones were used in displays of strength at festivals...

The shrine has some very nice, large paintings.....

A few hundred meters up the narrow inlet towards Tonoura, the Kitamaebune port in earlier times, is a Kotohira Shrine set among a rocky outcropping.

This was originally a small Buddhist hermitage in 1711, but a few years later, following a dream, Kotohira Gongen was invited from Shikoku. In 1868, with the separation of Buddhas and Kami, it was turned into a shrine.

The previous post was on the Otoshi Shrine near Hamada Port

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Sufu Kasuga Shrine & Hinoashi Hachimangu

 

Not far from Shotokuji temple and Jorinji Temple is a Kasuga Shrine with great views over Sufu and the mouth of the Sufu River.

There appear to be few existing records, but as Kasuga Shrine is the family shrine of the powerful Fujiwara family, and the local rulers claim descent from a branch of the Fujiwara family, that makes sense.

The Kasuga Daimyojin consists of Takemikazuchi, Amenokoyane, Futsunishi, and Himegami.

I was impressed with the older-style masks....

About a kilometers away near the mouth of the Sufu River, is Hinoashi Haxchimangu. This shrine does have records.

The governor of Iwami, Fujiwara no Kunikane, established the shrine as a branch of Usa hachimangu in 1114. Thirty years later the shrine was given extensive lands to support it and its festivals. It was the tutelary shrine for 16 villages. The Suo Clan, descendants of Kunikane, made it their family shrine and gave more support. When the Suo moved with the Mori to Nagato a lot of the shrines lands were confiscated.

There is a very popular Inari shrine within the grounds. Over the centuries it has been located at numerous locations.

The previous post in this series on walking the Chugoku Kannon Pilgrimage and the Iwami Kannon Pilgrimage was on Jorinji Temple.

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Tsuda Hachimangu aka Mozukujima Hachimangu

Tsuda Hachimangu is right next to the train station, Iwami Tsuda. It is known locally by its old name Mozukujima Hachimangu

In earlier times, the site of the shrine was a small island in the mouth of the river and the villagers would collect a type of seaweed called mozuku.

This is a giant Hagoita, a kind of paddle used to play a Japanese game similar to badminton. Often decorated with kabuki characters or other auspicious figures, they became used as talismans for good luck, especially at new year.

One thing noticeable here is that the shrine is kept in good order and appearance. It is obviously well looked after.

Not sure if the ring on the ceiling is the same thing, but alongside the main shrine was a used chinowa, the grass ring used for parishioners to pass through for purification. When used, the circle is fresh green.

Another notable thing about this shrine was the large number of masks on display.

There are a couple of quite cool, large oni masks, a Susano, a single Tengu and then two pairs of tengu as well. All in all well worth a visit for me.

Another striking thing about the shrine is the large numkber of secondary shrines...

There is an Omoto Shrine which lists Kunitokotachi as the kami. It is one of the primordial kami and I suspect was named in the Meiji period. In the rest of Iwami Omoto is a local land kami.

There is an Inari Shrine visible in photo 6, and a Nakayama Shrine, once again listing Kunitokotachi.

There are two Ebisu Shrines, both enshrining Kotoshironushi, and one adding Omononushi also.

Finally, there is an Itsukushima Shrine.

The version of Hachiman here is Ojin, Jingu, and the three Munakata kami.

The final photo shows a Soreiden. This seems to be connected with ancestors and funerals, and as this area was part of the Tsuwano Domain at the end of the Edo Period, and the Daimyo of Tsuwano decreed that all people in the domain would have Shinto burials, it may date to that period.

The previous post in this series on day 33 of my walk along the Chugoku Pilgrimage, was on the walk to get here

if you would like to subscribe by email just leave your email address in the comments below. It will not be published and made public. I post new content almost everyday, and send out an email about twice a month with short descriptions and links to the last ten posts.