Yunotsu: World Heritage Site & Historic Preservation District

 

After a short walk along the Ginzan Kaido from its start, I take a diversion into the main part of the hot spring town of Yunotsu.

Dominating the lower part of the town, the Naito Residence has been the headmans residence for centuries. I believe the family "own" the hot water that fuels the numerous public and private onsens in the town.

Their sprawling property, which has a stone lantern in the garden gifted from Hideyoshi for the family's support during the invasion of Korea, is mostly in need of repair, and recently the property was given Japan Heritage status, so funds are now available and work has begun.

As you head uphill on the narrow street towards the ryokans, you pass Tatsu no Gozen Shrine.

The shrine is where one hour, 2,000 yen Iwami Kagura performaces are held every Saturday. Sorry, but I would rather watch 8 or 9 hours of kagura for free.

A huge rock shaped like a dragons head is above the shrine.

Onamuchi (Okuninushi), Sukunahikona,and Toyotamahime are the main kami. Shrine records were lost in a fire in the 18th century, but an inscription in the main hall dates to 1601.

In the middle of the town, a large temple with impressive gate. Eikoji is a Nichiren sect temple dating to the 16th century and has the tombs of many merchants who profited from the Kitamaebune trade.

In the gate, rather than the typical Nio there are a pair of the Shitenno instead.

At the top of the town the two public "day" spas....

On the way out of town to rejoin the Ginzan Kaido I pass the pottery with its huge noborigama, climbing kiln. I have photos of it in operation and will post eventually.....

The previous post in this series on day 38 of my walk along the Chugoku Kannon Pilgrimage was on the Okidomari port and the start of the Ginzan Kaido.

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Okidomari Port & the Ginzan Highway

 

I started day 38 of my walk alog the Chugoku Kannon Pilgrimage at Okidomari, the small port that serviced the Iwami Ginzan silver mines. The port and the mines as well as the road I am taking, the Ginzan Kaido, are all part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site.

For more info on the port and Ginzan Kaido, please see this earlier post.

The next temples on the pilgrimage are a cluster around Izumo. The fastes way would be togo straight up the national highway, route 9, but it would also be the most boring. One of the temples is in the foothills of the Chugoku Mountains, so I have decided to cut inland and head along a mountainous route.

There are still a few houses inhabited in the old harbour village, but less each time I visit.

The Ginzan Kaido heads up through the settlement and then into a  bamboo grove before climbing out.

Not as manicured as the Arashiyama Bamboo Forest, but 10,000 percent fewer people....

The previous post was on the last stop of the day before, Kannonji Temple in Gotsu Honmachi

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Hagi Castle

 

Hagi Castle was built in 1604 as the new base for the Mori Clan.

A few years earlier they had been ruling over most of the Chugoku region, but were on the losing side at the Battle of Sekigahra and so were stripped of most of their territory and confined to the western tip of Honshu.

They did not actually fight at Sekigahara, and it seems that Ieyasu betrayed them by breaking an agreement. Contrary to the prevalent notion that samurai were paragons of loyalty, betrayal was very, very common.

Removed from their main base at Hiroshima Castle, they asked to build their new base in either Hofu or Yamaguchi on the Inland Sea, but Ieyasu made them choose the remote area where Hagi now stands.

It was constructed mostly on the sandbar that connected Mount Shizuki with the delta of the Abu River.

Protected on 3 side by the sea, there were some fortifications around the base and on top of the mountain, but the main structures were built to the south.

A series of moats protected this side and the samurai residences formed the outer defences with other moats.

The main keep was 5 storeys and the base is clearly seen in these photos.

Like many of the castles built in the early Edo Period, Hagi Castle never came under any kind of attack.

Like many castles it was dismantled at the beginning of the Meiji Period.

There are a few gardens and teahouses inside the ruins,... click here to see some more photos...

While not soo much remains of Hagi Castle other than the stonework and moats, the opposite can be said for the castle town that grew up around the castle.

Because the railway ran around the town rather than through it, the old samurai and merchant quarters remain among the best-preserved castle towns in all of Japan.

The castle is now part of a UNESCO World Heritage site connected to Japan's early Industrialization.

I was in Hagi a few months ago, and even though it has a lot to see for the visitor, it was not at all busy and the polar opposite of "overtourism", due mostly, I suspect, to its remoteness and limited transportation options.

I will be posting more on Hagi, and I have already posted quite a bit.... clicking here will get you to those posts... they come up in reverse chronological order, so you will have to scroll down to find older posts....

The previous post in this series on day 29 of my walk along the Chugoku Kannon Pilgrimage was on the mouth of the Hashimoto River, one side of the castles water frontage...

if you would like to subscribe by email, just leave your email address in the comments below. It will not be published or made public. I post new content almost every day, and send out an email about twice a month with short descriptions and links to the most recent posts.

Daishoin Temple 14 Chugoku Pilgrimage Part 2 Jizo, Kannon, Enma, Autumn Colours

 

This is the second part of my post on Daishoin Temple on Miyajima. The previous post is here.

Not sure exactly who this is but I suspect it is one of the Wisdom Kings.....

I believe this is a Kokuzo Bosatsu statue in what is called the Nyo Garden,,,,

The Hensho Kutsu is an artificial cave with an impressive ceiling of lanterns.

Here are 88 statues and a small amount of earth from each of the 88 temple on the Shikoku Pilgrimage.

There are many, many versions of Jizo here.....

The Amida-do enshrining an Amida trinity.

For more details on the history of Daishoin please check my previous post....

A tengu......

Some miniature Jizo....

Enma..... the Judge of "Hell"....

yet anither Fudo....

Theer are numerous Kannons here, including the one that was the main Buddha of Itsukushima Shrine until the separation of Buddhas and kami in 1868

The previous post was 28 photos of the first half of my visit to Daishoin.