Ushitora Shrine Fukuyama

 

Ushitora Shrine is said to be the oldest shrine in Fukuyama.

It is said to have been founded as Gozu Tenno Shrine in the early 12th century when the area that is now Fukyama was a big estate of the Fujiwara Clan.

In  1334 it was moved to its current location and renamed Akitsushima shrine after Izanagi was also enshrined here.

When Fukuyama Castle was constructed the shrine was in the NE direction of the castle and so was supported by the lords of the castle as a kimon, demon gate to protect from the NE. 

Gozu Tenno would seem to be originally of Hindu origin and in Japan became known as the god of plagues, both as cause and prevention. The origin of the Gion Matsuri , Gozu Tenno was widely enshrined throughout Japan and equated with Susano. Gion Shrines, Yasaka Shrines, and others were all originally devoted to Gozu Tenno but in Meiji officially became shrines to Susano.

Fukuyama Ushitora Shrine appeared in a 2022 TV program and has since become even more popular as a shrine for seeking protection.

The previous post was on the temple immediately adjacent, Kannon-ji, also functioning as a kimon of the castle.

Kannonji Temple Demons Gate of Fukuyama Castle

 

After exploring Tomonoura I headed back into Fukuyama again to spend my second night there and as there was still plenty of daylight left I went to explore the area to the NE of the castle.

My first stop was Kannonji Temple which has a Niomon gate before a long Pine-flanked approach.

The Nio were quite impressive....

In Japanese culture, imported from China, the NE direction is considered where evil comes from, and so temples were often placed to the NE of important sites to protect them. These were called Kimon.

Perhaps the most famous example is the placing of Enryakuji Temple on top of Mount Hiei to protect Kyoto.

When Fukuyama Castle was built in the 17th century the daimyo had this temple brought from another area and placed as the kimon.

The Hondo and main gate are dated to 1651 and are registered as Important Cultural Properties.

Kannonji is a Shingon temple and was under the control of Myoo-in.

The honzon is a Kannon and the temple is on both the Fukuyama and the Bingo Kannon pilgrimages.

The previous post in this series on my walk along the Chugoku Kannon Pilgrimage was on Fukuzenji Temple in nearby Tomonoura.

Fukuzenji Temple & The Most Beautiful View

 

Fukuzenji is unusual in that, unlike almost all the temples of Tomonoura, which are clustered in one area along the town's edge, Fukuzenji is situated right in the middle of the town.

Like many of the other temples, Fukuzenji was used to accommodate visiting Korean dignitaries on their journey to the Japanese capital.

In 1711 one envoy claimed that the view from the temple was the best scenic view east of Korea and this has been often translated to mean the best view in Japan.

However, when the next delegation visited in 1748 they were told to use another temple as Fukuzenji had fallen somewhat into disrepair. The Koreans were indignant and stayed on their boats overnight in protest.

In 1763 when the next Korean mission arrived their were put up once again at Fukuzenji.

It was a Korean who named the reception hall Taichoro, the name it retains to today.

The Taichoro is also where Sakamoto Ryoma had a meeting.

Fukuzenji is a Shingon sect temple and is believed to have been founded around 950, but records are sketchy.

The main altar is quite colourful and has a Thousand-armed Kannon as honzon.

I was, of course, rather partial to the couple of Fudo's as well as the Aizen Myoo.

The main view from the temple is of Bentenjima Island with its Benzaiten Fukujudo, a small Buddhist hall on the island to Benzaiten, but also with a Torii indicating Benten's syncretic nature.

Behind it is Sensui Island and then the Inland Sea

The previous post was on the harbour of the old port of Tomonoura.

Tomonoura Harbour

 

Tomonoura is now a fairly decent-sized harbour filled with small fishing boats.

Walking around the small town, glimpses of the hatbour down narrow alleys are not uncommon.

During the Edo Period it was a major port bustling with ships of many kinds.

Its importance as a harbour goes back much further, being recognized as such in poems of the Nara Period.

It was during the Edo Period though when the port reached its peak, in part due to the Kitamebune ships that docked here. Kitamaebune was the trade route that ran up and down the Japan Sea coast before connecting with the Inland Sea route to Osaka.

Tomonoura was also one of the ports where official delegations stopped on their way to the capital. Not just daimyo heading to Edo, but the Dutch delegations from Nagasaki, and perhaps most notably the Korean delegations.

Further down the coast is Shimokamagari island, also well known for the Korean delegations and which I covered in this earlier post.

The harbour is almost circular in shape, created by constructing breakwaters/wharfs out of stone ( photo 11) . A pleasant sight compared to most Japanese harbours of great, concrete constructions.

Also notable is the lighthouse, 11 meters tall, constructed in 1850 and which burned all through the night. (photos 6 and 7)

Other than the fishing boats, there is a small ferry out to a couple of the offshore islands, and a tour boat that cruises around Benten Island.

The previous post in this series exploring Tomonoura was on the Historic Preservation District.