Ako Castle Gardens

 

Ako Castle lies on the Inland Sea coast near the border of Hyogo and Okayama, and is famous as the home castle of the famous 47 Ronin.

While many castles would have a garden within the castle grounds for the enjoyment of the Lord and his reatiners and guests, Ako Castle is somewhat unusual in having two gardens.

The Honmaru Garden lies within the inner bailey of the castle, and the larger Ninomaru garden within the second bailey.

Both gardens were built at the same time as the new castle by Asano Nagano beginning in 1645.

The castle and the gardens were designed primarily by a retainer, Kondo Masazumi, with some input from his teacher the Confuciam scholar Yamaga Soko.

Once the High School and ist sports grounds were removed from the castle grounds in 1981 restoration of the grounds began.

These photos date from about 15 years ago and since then further restoration work on the gardens has been completed.

Both gardens are designated as National Scenic Spots.

They are both stroll type gardens, but the Ninomaru Garden was also used for boating.

The previous post was on Ako Castle.

Ushitora Shrine Fukuyama

 

Ushitora Shrine is said to be the oldest shrine in Fukuyama.

It is said to have been founded as Gozu Tenno Shrine in the early 12th century when the area that is now Fukyama was a big estate of the Fujiwara Clan.

In  1334 it was moved to its current location and renamed Akitsushima shrine after Izanagi was also enshrined here.

When Fukuyama Castle was constructed the shrine was in the NE direction of the castle and so was supported by the lords of the castle as a kimon, demon gate to protect from the NE. 

Gozu Tenno would seem to be originally of Hindu origin and in Japan became known as the god of plagues, both as cause and prevention. The origin of the Gion Matsuri , Gozu Tenno was widely enshrined throughout Japan and equated with Susano. Gion Shrines, Yasaka Shrines, and others were all originally devoted to Gozu Tenno but in Meiji officially became shrines to Susano.

Fukuyama Ushitora Shrine appeared in a 2022 TV program and has since become even more popular as a shrine for seeking protection.

The previous post was on the temple immediately adjacent, Kannon-ji, also functioning as a kimon of the castle.

Oda Hachimangu

 

Heading up the Yato River from my home on day 7 of my walk along the Iwami Kannon Pilgrimage, I first walked through Kawado, and then the second village was Oda. It was in the middle of Oda that I stopped in at the Omoto "shrine". At the far end of the village the steps lead straight up to the village shrine, a Hachimangu.

Like most shrines in the countryside it is uninhabited and to all intents and purposes seems abandoned.

However, once a year, after harvest, the matsuri is held and the shrine is dusted off, aired, and all-night kagura will be performed.

Once every 4 years they will also hold an Omoto Matsuri, and that is what I posted on in the previous post in this series.

The main road to and from the shrine leads down to the river...

Being a Hachiman shrine the main kami is Ojin, but curiously the Prefectural Shinto Shrine Association says it is combined with Susanoo

Which may explain the second crest next to the hachiman Triple-Tomoe above the fine pair of Kote-e dragons.

Kannonji Temple Demons Gate of Fukuyama Castle

 

After exploring Tomonoura I headed back into Fukuyama again to spend my second night there and as there was still plenty of daylight left I went to explore the area to the NE of the castle.

My first stop was Kannonji Temple which has a Niomon gate before a long Pine-flanked approach.

The Nio were quite impressive....

In Japanese culture, imported from China, the NE direction is considered where evil comes from, and so temples were often placed to the NE of important sites to protect them. These were called Kimon.

Perhaps the most famous example is the placing of Enryakuji Temple on top of Mount Hiei to protect Kyoto.

When Fukuyama Castle was built in the 17th century the daimyo had this temple brought from another area and placed as the kimon.

The Hondo and main gate are dated to 1651 and are registered as Important Cultural Properties.

Kannonji is a Shingon temple and was under the control of Myoo-in.

The honzon is a Kannon and the temple is on both the Fukuyama and the Bingo Kannon pilgrimages.

The previous post in this series on my walk along the Chugoku Kannon Pilgrimage was on Fukuzenji Temple in nearby Tomonoura.

Uranouchi Bay to Susaki

 

After alighting from the small ferryboat, I briskly head west towards Susaki where I have a room booked for the night.

It's late November so the days are relatively short with 10 hours of sunshine, and I started the day well before sunrise, but I still have about 10k to go to reach mu hotel so don't dawdle.

I pass a few small wayside shrines....

It's been some time since the rice was cut and harvested but the stalks have had a couple of months to start regrowing

This small henro hut was one used for overnight stays.... there was a portaloo nearby, running water, and an electricity outlet.... right next to the road but a welcome spot for those on a tight budget. I do get the impression that nowadays sleeping out on the henro trail is discouraged and frowned upon, and that is a real shame as it has always been a pilgrimage for the less well off "traveller"  rather than a package tour for tourists.

Approaching Susaki, the other side of the road and river is a huge industrial complex.

I believe this was a Kibune Shrine, but with the sun going down, I did not stop and explore...

It is a huge cement plant with a power station..... I know making cement uses a huge amount of heat, but am not sure if the power plant is to generate the power to produce the cement or if the heat used to produce the cement is used to make electricity.....

Though the standard catch-phrase for Japan in media is "resource-poor", it is in fact totally self-sufficient in cement and concrete...

As the small river I was walking down reaches the bigger Sakura River a big heron takes off...

The Sakura River widens at this point just before emptying into the sea and the setting sun paints a nice picture as I cross over into Susaki and get close to my bed for the night.

And so ends my 18th day walking along the Shikoku 88 temple pilgrimage known as Ohenro.

The previous post was on the ferry ride up Uranouchi Bay.