Namba Yasaka Shrine

 

The Yasaka Shrine in Namba, Osaka, has become well known for its distinctive kaguraden shaped like a Komainu's head.

Though there are no records, the shrine claims to have been established during the reign of Emperor Nintoku in the 4th century. Nintoku is one of those emperors that probably existed, but at least a century later.

It was known in ancient times as Namba Shimonomiya.

Like many Yasaka Shrines it was, until Meiji, a temple-shrine complex and during the late Heian Period was connected to Gozu Tenno, an epidemic fighting deity with nunerous origin stories.

The version I prefer is the one that has Gozu Tenno brought to Japan from Sila by the Hata Clan.

Gozu Tenno was the deity of Gion-sha, the home of the Gion Matsuri and a common name of many Yasaka Shrines before Meiji.

From the Kamakura Period onwards, Gozu Tenno became conflated with Susano, which is the deity now enshrined in all Yasaka Shrines, along with his wife, Kushinada, and their eight children.

There are numerous secondary shrines in the grounds.

The shrine-temple complex burned down numerous times, usually because of war, with the most recent destruction being during WWII.

The current buildings date to the 1970's.

The most interesting structure is called a Shishi-den, but to me it looks like a komainu.

Various performances take place in it, so that would make it a kagura-den by my calculation..

Over the last ten years or so it has become an "instagrammable" spot and is much more popular than it used to be...

The previous post on the architecture and sights of Namba was on Namba Parks

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Hachiman Shrine & Makio Shrine in Yasaka

 

Day 9 of my walk along the Iwami Kannon Pilgrimage and during the morning I stop in at two noteworthy shrines.

Iwami is a remote region, and the area in the mountains now collectively grouped together as Yasaka Town is a remote part of that region. Though I have lived here for decades, this was an exploration for me...

The first shrine I reached was the Hachimangu in the area called Nakayasu after thebfamily that were installed in the area as local  administrators in the mid 14th century.

They served under various different lords until the mid 16th century when the Mori attacked and defeated them, then took over.

This Hachimangu was established as a branch of Usa Hachiman in the mid 15th century to protect the nearby castle. It became the tutelary shrine for ten villages in the area.

There are a pair of huge Sugi trees flanking the stairway, and a third up near the shrine buildings.

They are big enough to be protected and registered as Natural Monunments by the prefecture.

An older Tenmangu shrine was moved into the grounds in early Meiji.

With its Ryobu-style Torii, Makio Shrine, much further south, is quite picturesque. (top photo above)

Said to be founded in the early Heian Period, making it about a thousand years old, it was relocated to its current location in 1582.

 

Unusual is the combination of main kami, Izanagi, and Otoshi. Izanagi, well known as the male of the creator-kami pair with his sister/wife Izanami. Otoshi, one of Susano's sons, with association with rice harvest and Korean clans.

There is a kagura den, but it looks like it has not been used in a while....

The previous post was on the last temple I visited yesterday, and the place I stayed the night.

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An Autumn Walk to Yasaka Shrine & Ishinokuchi Hachimangu

 

I begin day 20 in Tabuse and today's walk along the Chugoku Kannon Pilgrimage will take me into the countryside of southern Yamaguchi.

First stop, walking out of Tabuse, was a Yasaka Shrine.

Enshrining Susanoo and Kushinadahime, like all Yasaka Shrines it was known as a Gion Shrine until the Meiji Period when the separation of Buddhas and Kami meant Gozu Tenno was replaced by Susanoo.

Like many Gion shrines, it was established to protect against plague and disease.

The exact date of its founding I cannot find out, but it was certainly here in 1559.

It is a glorious late Autumn day as I head out on Prefectural Route 63.

As usual in Japan, you can't go far without passing a roadside Buddhist altar.

I have never been in this area before, and I have no idea what I will find along the road.

Exploring seems to be out of fashion nowadays. Most people seem to want to go to places they have seen on the internet.

The landscape I walked through I would describe as typical Japan....

River valleys with forested mountains....

Farms scattered around, and when the valley is wide enough, larger settlements...

At the base of Iwakisan, a sacred mountain with a cluster of ancient shrines on top, a big shrine of a "new" religion, and the remains of a "korean-style" castle of the late 7th century. I came across the entrance to Ishinokuchi Hachimangu.

It is said to have originally stood higher up the mountain but was relocated to its current site in the late 14th century.

Not far up the approach was a small shrine with no name....

Though it did have a lovely ceiling....

Further in, a second torii and more steps...

and then more steps....

To be so far from the road is quite unusual....

I had left my backpack at the first torii so I didn't mind the walk and the forest was quite atmospheric with shafts of sunlight piercing the mist...

In a small storage shed I found an unusual mikoshi shaped like a sea bream....

I finally reached the quite substantial main shrine... I would say about 400 meters from the first torii...

As a Hachiman it enshrines primarily Ojin....

There are several sub- shrines nearby, but I can find no details....

There is also a huge stump of what must have been a sacred tree....

The previous post in this series on my walk along the Chugoku Kannon Pilgrimage was on the ancient mountain temple of Hannya-ji

If you would like to subscribe by email just leave your email address in the comments below. It will not be published and made public. I post new content almost everyday, and send out an email about twice a month with short descriptions and links to the last ten posts.