Shikoku Pilgrimage Temple 37 Iwamotoji

Iwamotoji, the 37th temple on the Shikoku pilgrimage known as Ohenro, is located in Shimanto, Kochi, in the SW part of Shikoku Island.

Its about 80 kilometers to the next temple, and 65 from the previous temple.

When I arrived in very early December, there was still some fine autumn colour around.

There was a fine pair of Nio guardians in the Nio gate....

Though they didn't look to be very old...

The origins of the temple are in the mid-8th century when Gyoki, under orders of Emperor Shomu, founded a temple a couple of kilometers to the north, next to the Niida Myojin Shrine.

It was called Fukuemanji, and when Kobo Daishi visited next century he enshrined 5 different Buddhas in 5 shrine in the complex.

They were a Fudo Myoo, a Kannon, an Amida, a Yakushi, and a Jizo. These are now the 5 honzon at Iwamotoji.

Iwamotoji is unique on the Shikoku Pilgrimage in having 5 honzon

Fukuemanji was the temple on the pilgrimage, and Iwamotoji was a lodgings on the route between it and the next temple at Ashizuri Cape.

In the 17th century, Fukuemanji fell into disrepair, and the priest transferred to Iwamotoji, which then became the pilgrimage temple.

At the start of Meiji, with the shinbutsu bunri edict, the 5 Buddhas were transferred from the shrines to Iwamotoji.

The temple was closed down in 1871 but reopened in 1889.

The main hall, built in 1978, is well known for its painted ceiling.

575 colourful paintings, by both professional artists and regular citizens draw visitors.

The most famous one is of Marilyn Monroe, but I didn't notice it.

The oldest structure in the temple is the Daishi Hall, believed to be about 200 years old. Photo 9 above.

Photo 8 is the circular Seitendo enshrining Kangiten.

This is a small Suitengu Shrine.

Behind the temple is the Mikumano Shrine.

The temple has a large lodgings house.

The previous temple was number 36 Shoryuji.

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Suitengu Shrine Kurume

Kurume 久留米

Suitengu Shrine in Kurume is the head shrine of all Suitengu shrines in Japan. It was founded in the 13th Century and moved from various sites until its current location on the bank of the Chikugo River in Kurume.

It felt like a "national", political shrine and researching it has confirmed my feeling.

Suiten is a water deity, originally Varuna, a Hindu deity, and was imported into Japan with Buddhism. In 1868 all the deities in shrines that had a Buddhist origin, and there were very many, were replaced with Japanese kami that usually had imperial connections. All the very popular deities, Inari, Konpira, Myoken, Ebisu, etc were changed to imperially-connected kami.

Now enshrined here are Amenominakanushi, the kami who created the universe and who  is enshrined in hundreds of shrines but only since 1868, Next is Antoku, the child emperor who drowned at the Battle of Dannoura. Prior to 1868 emperors who not enshrined in "shinto" shrines. Emperors who died violently, like Antoku, were enshrined in Buddhist temples, many of which were "converted " to shrines after 1868. Also enshrined are Taira no Tokiko. wife of the famous Taira Kiyomori, and their daughter, Taira no Tokuko, the mother of Antoku.

A large part of the shrine is now devoted to Yasuomi Maki. He was a priest at the shrine, but also a samurai involved in the early stages of the civil wars that led to the Meiji Restoration. Pictured above is the Maki Shrine in the grounds.

In 1862 he was involved in an anti-government "disturbance" in Fushimi in Kyoto and was briefly held under house-arrest. Pictured above is a replica in the shrine grounds of the house he was held in.

Also known as Maki Izumi, in 1864 he took part in fighting in what is known as the Kinmon Incident when pro-imperial forces attempted to take control of the imperial palace in Kyoto. After suffering defeat Maki took his troops to Tennozan and committed suicide.

The grounds of the shrine are quite large and pleasant, with lots of trees, but like many of what I would call the political shrines, it is quite sombre and austere and not much sign of local peoples involvement.

The one exception is the pair of Hizen komainu, which are quite distinctive, and like many statues are used for prayers for healing by rubbing the part of the statues that corresponds to the su\ickness.

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