Saka Shrine Origin of Sake in Japan

 

Down below Ichibata Yakushi Temple, and not far from Ichibataguchi Station, is Saka Shrine, sometimes called Matsuo Shrine.

October 2nd, 2015, and this is where I start day 43 of my walk along the Chugoku Kannon Pilgrimage.

This is an ancient shrine connected to the production of Sake, and the areas around it all have names connected to sake.

The first time sake is mentioned in the ancient myth-histories published in the early 8th century is when Susanoo brews some sake to give to the Orochi serpent, which he then slays when they are in a drunken stupor. As sake is a word used for alcohol in general, it is suggested that the sake he brewed was made from fruit.

However, same books, plus the  Izumo Fudoki, published a few years later, has a legend from this area wherein 180 kami gathered together, built a kitchen and brewed up some sake, and had a 180-day feast.

About ten kilometers away up the Hi River is Mankusen Shrine, where a big group of kami gathers during Kamiarizuki, the annual meeting of almost all of Japan's kami in the Izumo area. The shrine has a unique ritual and ceremony wherein the kami are kind of pushed out of the shrine because they won't leave. The reason they won't leave is that they say the sake here is so good.

The primary kami of Saka Shrine is Kushinokami, believed to be another name for Sukunahikona, the sidekick of Okuninushi who settled and created the land of Izumo. He was also linked with medicine. Also enshrined here are 180 unnamed kami, obviously a nod to the myth-legend.

At some point before the 16th century, the kami of Matsuo Shrine near Kyoto was enshrined here. Oyamakui is also considered the kami of sake, and Matsuo Shrine in Kyoto is considered the main sake-brewers' shrine in Japan. Saka Shrine was known as Matsuo Shrine until the Meiji Period, when it reverted to Saka Shrine.

Researchers and historians believe that sake was introduced into Japan from Korea via Izumo. The Hata Clan created the Matsuo Shrine in Kyoto, and the Hata are known to be an immigrant clan from the mainland; some say China, some say Korea, some say even further west. Many historians suggest that the Hata spent some time in Izumo before moving on to Yamato. All this suggests that the area around Saka Shrine may well be the origin of Sake in Japan...

Sake brewers continue to support and pray at Saka Shrine. At the annual festival in mid October, at which the head priest has brewed sake for it, many sake brewers gather. The shrine has a special license to brew the sake.

In the grounds are numerous secondary shrines, notably an Inari.

There are also an Ekisha, a Takeuchi Shrine, and a Hoden Shrine. The most interesting is a Smallpox Vaccination Shrine.

The previous post in this series was on the 84,000 Yakushi statues at Ichibata Yakushi. Well worth a look!

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Takao Gongen to Mitsu Shrine

 

From the fishing village of Shiotsu, the road rises steeply and then heads inland a little.

I stop in at a small wayside shrine called Takao Gongen. It has a torii and gohei in front of the statues, both "shinto" symbols, but the statues are Buddhist. A nice reminder of tradition.

On the very first walk along this coast that I did more than 20 years ago, this was where I spent the night, so I have fond memories of the place.

Down below a tiny fishing village clinging to the steep hillside. I did not venture down the loop road as it looked quite steep.... that would be for a later trip....

A small tunnel cuts through to make a pass to the next valley which runs down to the larger fishing village of Mitsuura.

At the edge of the village I stop in at  Mitsu Shrine,  but during the Edo Period it was called Rokusho Daimyojin.

It used to be located much closer to the sea and has been moved several times, most recently in the early 20th century.

It is listed both in the Izumo Fudoki and the Engi Shiki, so was of some importance in ancient times.

For a while, it was known as Mitsu Kumano Shrine, suggesting that it originally enshrined only Izanagi and Izanami.

The name Rokusho Shrine would be referring to the six kami now enshrined here, with Amaterasu, Ninigi, Susanoo, and Koyane, along with Izanami and Izanagi.

I especially enjoyed the masks here, especially the old, wooden demon mask.

There are quite a few secondary shrines within the grounds, including a Toshitoku Shrine which may enshrine Otoshi, a Wakamiya Shrine enshrining Okuninushi, and a shrine enshrining "5 great kami".

There is also an Inari Shrine, a Ryujin Shrine, and a Gubin Shrine enshrining Tengu no kami?

There is a sumo ring with a roof...

The previous post was on 2 shrines in Shiotsu, the previous fishing village..

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Funamori Shrine to Ishigami Shrine

 

Coming into Shiotsu Funamori Shrine is enclosed within high concrete walls to protect it from storms.

Until Meiji it was called Hachioji Daigongen and enshrined Hachioji Daimyojin but was renamed Funamori Shrine and the deity renamed Sonosazuchi no mikoto, but I can not find such a kami anywhere.

Little history is kniown but an old timber was dated to 1536.

The Aragami Shrine in the grounds enshrines Susano.

Shiotsu has a small fishing port with ample concrete protections...

At the eastern end of the village is Ishigami Shrine.

Plenty is known about this shrine as it is mentioned in the Izumo Fudoki and listed in the Engi Shiki.

Originally called Umi Shrine and believed to enshrine Wadatsumi, the sea kami.

In the 11th century, the shrine and much of the village were destroyed by a storm.]

Later, following a vision, the shintai of the shrine, the sacred object with the Honden, in this case a large stone, was brought up from the sea.

It now sits behind the shrine, without a Honden. It is surrounded by a stoen fence and the stone is wrapped in numerous layers of heigushi. There is an Inari shrine in the grounds, and an Aragami shrine, enshrining Susanoo.

The previous post was on the walk along the coast to get to Shiotsu.

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Susa Shrine

 

May 5th, 2015, day 40 of my walk along the Chugoku Kannon Pilgrimage. A short walk from my nights campsite I arrive at Susa Shrine.

This is the head shrine of a large network of Susa shrines nationwide. I know I have come across many Susa shrines in my walks around western Japan, but I am not sure how common they are in the east.

There is a small Amaterasu shrine facing the main shrine.

The shrine was originally located a little to the north but was moved to its current location probably in the 9th century.

It ios mentioned in the Izumo Fudoki and so is very ancient. It is also listed in the Engi Shiki.

The main shrine enshrines Susano, but also his wife, Kushinada, and her parents, Ashinazuchi, and Tenazuchi.

Behind the main hall is a Miho Shrine, and to the east and west of the main hall are shrines enshrining various offspring of Susanoo, so the shrine is unusual in being surrounded by shrines in the 4 directions.

The current main hall dates to 1861.

The shrine is said to have 7 special sights, including a huge sugi tree.

Most unusual, perhaps, is the salt well. It is said that when the sea is at high tide the water from the spring is seawater, however, sciebtists have dispelled that story and explin the saltiness by natural causes.

Outside the grounds, but on the approach to the shrine, are another two shrines, an Itsukushima Shrine enshring the three munakata princesses, daughters of Susanoo, and a Suga Shrine, another shrine enshrining Susanoo that has many branches around Japan.

The honden was rebuilt by Harhisa Amago in 1554, and is relatively large, but n 14th cetury documents it was 4 times the size.

The honden has undergone periodic repairs and renovation about every 30 years.

A renovation is currently taking place.

The shrine is considered a "power spot" and is quite popular, though being off the beaten track and not near a railway it is relatively quiet.

The previous post was on the previous afternoons walk.

If you would like to subscribe by email, just leave your email address in the comments below. It will not be published and made public. I post new content almost everyday, and send out an email about twice a month with short descriptions and links to the last ten posts.