Oki Beach to Iburi to Kubotsu to Kinpei-an

 

Day 23 of my Shikoku Pilgrimage, and from Oki Beach I continued on down the coast of the Ashizuri Peninsula towards the cape and Kongofukuji Temple, the 38th temple of the pilgrimage.

I should easily reach it today, but it has been 3 days since the 37th temple, Iwamotoji.

It is unusual to find a cemetery with a Shinto gate....

With a large torii flanked by komainu, I was expecting a substantial-sized shrine...

But it turned out to be little more than a roadside hokora...

However, in a fishing area, an Ebisu shrine is going to be well maintained and used...

Several renditions of Ebisu statues .....

Plus a Taiko, indicating that rituals are still performed....

A Daikoku and a Buddha statues extend the mix.....

I think this final one must be a Benzaiten... looking like a female riding a dragon...

a small Tenmangu shrine...

Iburi harbour... with a curious tunnel... part natural, part man-made, I think...

Looking back up the coast....

Not sure what species of fish these are...

Another small shrine...

And then an Ichioshi Shrine, right on the waterfront....

... where a new road over the inlet...

Another very small shrine which has been completely rebuilt recently...

And then, on the outskirts of the little fishing village of Tsuro, an establishment with the name of Kinpei-an. It is a Zenkonyado, rudimentary lodgings made available free of charge to walking pilgrims. This one is very well known to walking pilgrims, as the 80 year old man who offers it is very generous, offering the use of the shower and kitchen in his house.

The structure is handmade but has a woodstove made out of an oil drum. The number of ofuda left is a testament to how many people have used his place. There is a move to gentrification on the pilgrimage, with pilgrims who want to camp and sleep out being actively discouraged. One website I know of for pilgrims refuses to carry posts on free accommodation options. It is a real shame as this has always been a pilgrimage for the less well-endowed financially. I know if I had to pay for lodgings every night of the pilgrimage I would not have been able to do it. It was too early in the day for me to stay, but in my opinion it is an example of the genuine spirit of a pilgrimage.

The previous post was on the glorious sunrise of the day...

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Down the Shimanto & Shimonokae Rivers

 

23rd of December, 2011, and I begin day 22 of my walk around the famous Shikoku Ohenro Pilgrimage by crossing the Shimanto River on the Shimanto River Bridge that carries Route 56 acrossthe river.

There are numerous possible routes down to the next temple at Cape Ashizuri, and I chose this one, if I remember correctly, as it gave me more shrines to visit.

Vast fields of Susuki, Japanese pampas grass, line the banks in places...

I pass under the New Shimanto River Bridge which carries a new expressaway across the river. It is so new that the pilgrim guidebook doesnt even show it...

I suspect these ducks have come from the far north for the winter...

This is one of my favorite times of the year to go walking in Japan. The winter weathe has not yet arrived and the low sun makes for nice photography light.

The days are very short though. Winter Solstice was two days ago, so when sleeping out you spend a long time in the sleeping bag.

I've seen people repurpose plastic bottles to make these bird-scaring windmills, but never seen them painted so nicely.

A little before reaching the sea the route cuts inland over some hilly country towards the Shimonokae River...

Though still more than a week till New Year, there are still daidai citrus fruits on this altar

The Shimonokae is a much smaller river than the Shimanto and not at all well known

I follow it down to the coast and then head down the coast as the sun starts to get low.

I get as far as the tiny fishing harbour of Kohama before stopping on a grassy verge overlooking the sea.

The previous post was on the unusual architecture of the Ogata Library in Kuroshio.

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Down the Ota River, Colonel Santa, & Kogoijima Island

 

After descending from Mitakidera I reached the Ota River, one of the main rivers passing through Hiroshima.

Not far from where it enters the sea is Miyajima, site of the next pilgrimage temple, so my route was easy,... along the embankment of the river....

First bridge was the one carrying the JR Kabe Line trains from downtown up to what is now  the northern suburbs.

The left-hand bridge is the Ryuo Bridge for pedestrians and cycles. The Shinryuo Bridge for moter traffic is next to it.

The older bridge on the left carries the JR Sanyo Line, while the newer one is for the shinkansen.

Japanese Pampas Grass, or susuki, is one of the major symbols of Autumn in Japan....

Old-style shopping streets all over Japan are increasingly shuttered as modern Japanese shopping habits change...

I was quite impressed with the architecture of the Hiroden Nishi Hiroshima streetcar station.

Built in 2001, trains from here go to Miyajima-guchi Station. Hiroshima has a very large and well-used tram network.

Though still only early November, Christmas advertising has been underway since Halloween.

Passing under the main expressway bridge...

Though now a little over a kilometer from the sea, this little island was originally just offshore.

Now called Kogoijima Island, the area between here and the current shoreline has been reclamied in the 20th century.

The water around the little island is still seawater though and sea fish can be seen in the pool.

Originally it was paired with a smaller outcropping on the shoreline and they were considered a pair of "married islands" The smaller one disappeared to make way for the main road.

This was originally called Okimi Myojin, hence the floating torii..... 

The previous post was on Mitakidera Temple further up the river in central Hiroshima.