Picturesque East Coast of Dogo Island

Dogo, the largest of the Oki islands in the Japan Sea off the coast of Shimane, remains one of my favourite places in Japan.

Like many places far from the Shinkansen, it has no overtourism.

On the first day of my three-day walk around the coastline of the island, I left the Sasaki Residence and started walking up the east coast.

The Oki Islands are a UNESCO Global Geopark which means there are plenty of signage in English, especially around the numerous sites of geological interest.

I have little knowledge of geology, though I do enjoy seeing land without vegetation.

In Okubo port there are examples of Green Tuff.....

Soft and makes for some nice eroded shapes.....

Then up along what is called the Kuboro Coast....

There are several observation decks with nice views, but walking, to me, makes the best way to view such coastlines....

Very little traffic, so no hazard for gently strolling....

Quite unusual to see a roadside Buddhist statue ........ every single temple on the Oki Islands were destroyed in the anti-Buddhist movement of early Meiji....

I was here in early June, 2016, so not too hot to walk, but with nice, long days....

The staggering quantity of concrete poured on Japanese coasts, building breakwaters for tiny harbours, and installing millions of tetrapods, need huge numbers of these crane-barge types of boats...

Kuroshima Island is the next major sight....

For the geologically-minded, the phrase is Mantle Xenoliths....

It's mid-afternoon as I approach Fuse, the largest of the fishing harbours of my walk today. Not big enough for a convenience store though. In fact I will pass no convenience store for three days. There is a single Yamazaki store on the island. No Lawsons, no Family Mart, no 7-11.....

The previous post was on the delightful, large Sasaki Residence, a traditional village Headmans residence.

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Upper Saigo Bay

 

The main port of Dogo Island in the Japan Sea off the coast of Shimane is Saigo.

The mouth of Saigo Bay is less than 300 meters wide, but the bay opens up with a long arms headong West and North.

These shots were taken at the northern edge of the bay where the main road that encircles the island passes.

This was the first day of my 3 day walk around the circumference of the island.

The Sea of Japan coast has some of the best and most dramatic coastline in all of Japan, with Shimane and the Oki Islands ranking near the top.

It was a beautiful, still day, enabling clear views....

The Oki Islands are a favored destination for scuba divers..... or if you dont dive, you can take an underwater viewing boat...

The previous post in this series on the Oki Islands was on one of the mysterious, unique trees on Dogo.

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Kappa Sightseeing Boat Oki Islands

 

The Kappa Sightseeing Boat operates three times a day for a one-hour-long scenic tour around the historic port area of Saigo on Dogo Island , Okinoshima, in the Sea of Japan off the north coast of mainland Shimane.

Tour participants meet at the Tourist Information Office near the ferry terminal, and a 5-minute walk through the back streets takes you to the jetty where you board the covered boats.

The boat first heads out to the narrow mouth of the sheltered inlet, where you can look back at the port and the high country in the middle of the island behind.

Some of the geologic features of the coast are pointed out by the guide, though the commentary is only in Japanese. 

The Oki Islands are a UNESCO Global Geopark, so geology is a well-covered topic throughout the islands with plenty of printed material and signs in English on it.

You may also catch sight of one of the huge car ferries or the high-speed passenger ferry coming or going.

 Before heading upriver, the boat makes a detour under the 260-meter-long Saigo Bridge, which carries traffic over to the island's only airport and to Shirataki Point, a favorite spot for sunset viewing.

After a few bends the river soon leaves the town behind and the banks are lined with reeds or trees. Here the guide points out a couple of the haunts of the Kappa, the mythological creature that is probably the best known yokai character in Japan and after whom the boat trip is named.

 Often translated into English as “water imp”, this green, scaly creature with a beak and turtle-like shell is known throughout Japan and is known for drowning horses and children. It really likes cucumber, so kappazushi, a kind of sushi made with cucumbers, is often left as offerings to appease it. At this point the guide sings a local folk song.

  After turning around the boat heads back and then takes the narrow channel that cuts through the middle of the old town. In some ways this is the most interesting part as the side by side houses literally come right down to the waters edge, with the older houses still with small jetties or steps down to the water. As you get closer to the port itself the sides of the river begin to fill with fishing boats.

  

Being an island, fishing has always been a major preoccupation with the inhabitants, but in earlier times the whole channel would have been a hive of activity because Saigo was a major trading port.

 Though much is made of the great roads built in the Edo period like the Tokaido or the Nakasendo, along which travelled the great entourages of daimyos travelling to Edo or the millions of pilgrims heading to Ise, it is worth remembering that Japan was basically a maritime nation, and the coasts and waterways carried much of the trade and communication.

  

Saigo Port was a stopping point on the Kitamaebune, a major trade route that ran from Hokkaido and the far north down the Japan Sea coast and then round into the Inland Sea to reach Osaka, the trading capital of the country. This was a safer and easier route than the shorter Pacific coast route, so this channel would have been filled with boats tying up, cargoes being tran-shipped, and supplies being taken onboard, and though not often mentioned, like ports everywhere in the world , there would have been brisk business for “female companionship”.

 To my mind this was the prettiest sightseeing boat ride in an urban setting. In recent years Ine in Kyoto has been heavily pushed as a tourist spot, but in my humble opinion, the area around Saijo is almost as good and not at all touristy.

The previous post in this series exploring the Oki Islands was on the Suijin Shrine right next to where the Kappa Boat is boarded.