Fujishiro Oji Shrine

 

Fujishiro Oji Shrine in Kainan, Wakayama, used to be considered the entrance to Kumano. The Kiiji Route, the main route of the Kumano Kodo, ran from Kyoto and then through Osaka and Wakayama. This route was primarily coastal or following rivers. From Fujishiro Oji the route heads into the mountains for the first time.

Of the 99 Oji, shrines where pilgrims stopped on the way to Kumano, Fujishiro was considered to be in the group of five most important Oji.

The shrine claims to have been founded during the reign of Emperor Keiko, said to have ruled in the first and second centuries. Historically, this is absurd, so let's say it's an ancient shrine.

The primary kami enshrined is Nigihayahi, a kami claiming descent from heaven and claimed as ancestor by the Mononobe. Seems Nigihayahi ruled over Yamato until Jimmu's expedition from Kyushu. Nigihayahahi submitted to Jimmu.

Other kami enshrined include Amaterasu and of course the Kumano trio.

The Ezra Stone, above photo left, is explained by the signboard below. If you offer sake to the stone and pray, you will become averse to alcohol.

Quite a delightful wooden horse.

The main hall of the shrine dates to mid 17th century.

The shrine is very proud to still have a trio of Heian Period Buddhist statues that represented the Kumano trio. The statues were not destroyed in 1868 like at many other shrines....

There are a multitude of secondary shrines within the grounds, including an Arima Oji Shrine enshrining Prince Arima who tragically died on the pilgrim trail above Fujishiro.

This giant camphor tree is listed as Komorigusu Shrine and is connected to Minakata Kumagusu. At the end of the post is an even bigger and older camphor tree.

Other shrines in the grounds include an Ebisu Shrine, Gion Shrine, Akiba Shrine, and Sumiyoshi Shrine.

The shrine is registered as a museum that includes all these sites as well as a reconstructed residence and garden of the Suzuki family. I Can't show it because it was built after my visit.

For generations, the Suzuki have been hereditary priests of the shrine, and it is believed that this is the origin of the Suzuki name.

Suzuki is a common family name as well as being a manufacturer of motorbikes and cars. My wife's sister married a Suzuki.

The previous post was on the last leg of the Kumano Kodo coming down to Fujishiro Shrine.

If you would like to subscribe by email just leave your email address in the comments below. It will not be published and made public. I post new content almost everyday, and send out an email about twice a month with short descriptions and links to the last ten posts.

Mononobe Shrine part 2

Mononobe Shrine, the Ichinomiya of Iwami, enshrines Umashimade no mikoto, the ancestor of the Mononobe. His grave lies on the hillside behind the shrine. The Mononobe are often portrayed as Shintoists who resisted the importation of the foreign "kami" of Buddhism, though how much of that was religious and how much was power politics is hard to discern, as the two are intimately linked.

The father of Umashimade was Nigihayahi who descended from heaven in a stone boat to what is now the Osaka area. In the ancient myths the distinction between heavenly kami and earthly kami is an important one. The heavenly kami represent the Yamato and their associated clans who invaded and took over Japan. The earthly kami are the ancestors of the rulers of the tribes of Japan that the Yamato supplanted. What is interesting about Nigihayahi is that he was not part of the group that descended with Ninigi to Kyushu.

So when Jimmu invaded Japan in what is known as his "Eastern Campaign", when he reached the area that is now Osaka he was defeated by a tribe led by Nagasune. Nagasune claimed that he followed Nigihayahi. Jimmu and Nigihayahi had a "you show me yours and I'll show you mine" session with symbolic weapons whereupon Nigihayahi realized that Jimmu was of the same lineage as he, that is to say, they both had the same origins, so he submitted to Jimmu and had Nagasune killed. Jimmu made Nigihayahi's son Umashimade the head of his guard.

So, if the Mononobe have their origins in "the high plain of heaven", the Korean Peninsula, and ruled over the area around present day Osaka, why is Umashimade buried in Iwami? According to the shrines founding legend, Umashimade was flying on a crane and landed here thinking it looked like a mountain in Yamato. The shrines crest if of a crane and crane statues are in the grounds. If we consider that the Mononobe were at the peak of their power in the 6th Century, the time Buddhism wa sintoduced to the Yamato court, and we consider that Izumo lost its independence and was incorprated into the confederacy led by Yamato around the 5th Century, then it would suggest that the Mononobe were placed here as a projection of military power to warn the Izumo to behave.