Yatsushiro Shrine

Yatsushiro Shrine

Yatsushiro Shrine is the major shrine of Yatsushiro in Kumamoto and was established towards the end of the heian Period. Until 1868 it was known as Myoken Shrine and enshrined Myoken, a Buddhist deity who was a manifestation of the Pole Star and Big Dipper. Myoken Shrine was in the middle of a complex of more than a dozen temples.

The Pole Star and Big Dipper figure in most ancient religions of the northern hemisphere, and in Japan in its earliest form seems to have been primarily Daoist. Myoken, the Buddhist version, seems to have arrived later and one credible source suggest that here in Yatsushiro was where it was introduced from the continent,

There were hundreds of Myoken shrines throughout Japan and in 1868 they were all renamed and 2 obscure shinto kami were enshrined in them, Amenominakanushinokami, and Kuninotokotachino. Like much of the "new" shinto of modern Japan it was Hirata Atsutane who decided this.

The current buildings at yatsushiro Shrine date from early and mid Edo period. It is thye home of the Yatsushiro Myokensai, one of the most important festivals in Kyushu. More info about Myoken can be found on my posts about Nose Myokensan, here and here.

Furufumotoinari Shrine

Furufumotoinari

Immediately adjacent to Shunkoji Temple was a series of vermillion torii heading up the hillside straddling a steep staircase.

Vermillion torii can found in front of grand, imperial-connected shrines, as well as small roadshide shrines, but when there are lots of them close together it is usually indicating, as it does here, an Inari Shrine.

On the climb up there are several smaller hokora type inari shrines, and quite high up a series of larger buildings. At the high point of the hills beyond there used to be a small castle, so it's possible this shrine was connected to it.

From the main shrine the path, and torii continued up the mountain to a smaller, less visited shrine. This was in all probability the original shrine. There were great views down onto Yatsushiro.

Shunkoji Temple Yatsushiro

Shunkoji

After four days of following the Kumagawa River downstream, on day 44 of my walk around Kyushu I emerge from the mountains onto the estuary and coastal plain of Yatsushiro.

The city is still some miles distant, but its skyline is dominated by the multiple, belching smokestacks of the giant papermill. However, along the edge of the mountains are numerous shrines and temples and the first I visit is Shunkoji.

 

It is deserted, but not quite feeling abandoned, it was the family temple of the Matsui Clan who ruled over the area from their castle in Yatsushiro. Here are the tombs of Matsui Family.

There was little statuary, and the tombs were not appealing to me, however the Fall colors did attract me. Shunkoji is a Rinzai Zen temple.

Izumo Folkcrafts Museum (exterior)

 

For years I had driven past signs pointing to the Izumo Mingeikan, but it wasnt't until recently that I visited it, and I must say I was very pleasantly surprised.

It is housed on the property of the Yamamoto family, one of the wealthiest familes in the Izumo region in historical times.

The main house is still a residence and neither it nor the garden can be visited.

The museum is housed in twolarge warehouses-storehouses, one dedicated to historical pieces and the other to contemporary pieces. They also have a small shop with a good selection of books, crafts, etc.

Photos and info on the works on display will come later........

Zuiganji Temple Tokushima

Zuiganji

After visiting Taisanji, the first temple on the Shikoku Fudo Myo Pilgrimage, I headed down the mountain and returned to my room in Tokushima City. There was still some hours of daylight left so I went to the Tourist Information Office and asked about any good gardens for viewing the Fall colors.

They only had one to suggest, Zuiganji Temple at the base of Bizan Mountain. Founded in 1614 it is a Rinzai Zen temple though they say the garden is Momoyama-style.

I had visited Zuiganji many, many years ago on my first visit to Tokushima, and found the garden very lush and to my mind somewhat overgrown. At that time I had not learned to appreciate Japanese gardens as I do now.

Whether you appreciate Japanese gardens or not, Zuiganji is certaily worth a visit in November for the autumn coors.

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Kikuya Residence Garden in Fall

 

The Kikuya Family were the wealthiest family in the castle town of Hagi. Though merchants were ostensibly almost the lowest class in the Edo Period social system, many became very wealthy and financed the upper samurai class and daimyos, as was the case here.

The Kikuya Residence is therefore a good example of a well preserved wealthy merchants property and so had nice gardens. I have posted on the residence and the garden earlier, but these shots are from a later visit I made in the Fall.

The gardens are meant to be enjoyed from inside the residence. After the mwiji Restoration the family constructed a newer, more modern residence next door and that had more expansive, stroll-type gardens.

I will post shots of the newer gardens later.....

Hiyoriyama Seacoast

The Hiyoriyama Seacoast is a stretch of scenic coastline in Toyooka in northern Hyogo around the mouth of the Maruyama River.

It is part of the UNESCO Global Geopark of San'n Kaigan that stretches from Tottori to Kyoto.

There are numerous sites in the Toyooka area included in the Geopark including the town and coastal area of Takeno.

It's a fairly scenic and dramatic stretch of coast, though to my mind we have better further west.....

Kuromatsu Fishing Port

Kuromatsu

The fishing harbor of Kuromatsu is just outside the main village in a small, adjacent cove. It is not very large but fairly typical of the thousands of small fishiung harbours found along Jaoan's almost 30,000 kilometers of coastline.

Now "protected" by huge, concrete seawalls, there is actually less concrete than found at many.

I suspect the tiny boats on the beach are used to put out small nets, drop off pots, and maybe harvest shellfish and seaweed. The half a dozen larger boats are squid boats.

The very powerful lights are used to trick the squid into thinking its a full moon and time to head to the surface for mating.

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Fudo Myo at Myo-on-ji Temple

 

Myo-on-ji is temple number 15 on the miniature Shikoku Pilgrimage in Sasaguri, Fukuoka.

Only a few hours into walking the pilgrimage, it is clear that there are an amazing number of statues of Fudo Myo. Myo-on-ji is an uninhabited temple, like most on this pilgrimage, though a little larger than many that just consist of a single, small "hall"

Soeof the Fudo are small, and some much larger. Some are stone, some wood, some bronze. Some are well-crafted by skilled artisans, some are cruder and made by "folk".

From here we leave the urban part of Sasaguri and start to head up a small mountain road. From now the distance between temple will be a little greater.....

Former Kyusendo Forest Museum

 

Overhanging the cliffs of the Kumagawa River, and on the opposite side of the road to the Kyusendo cave, this unusual structure used to house the Kyusendo Forest Museum.

Built in 1985, domes are rarely found in Japan, and it looks almost Middle-Eastern. It was still open when I was in the area, but I did not venture inside.

Like so many monumental buildings in rural Japan I suspect it never even came close to making any money and its upkeep would have been substantial.

Still,  the architect, construction companies, and most importantly, the concrete companies will have made a handsome profit.