Ikegami Merchant Mansion

 

Down below the former samurai district of the castle town of Takahashi in the mountains of Okayama is the merchant district of the old town.

The wealthiest merchant family was the Ikegami, and their property is open to the public as a kind of rest spot-information centre-musuem.

The family has been on this site since the early 18th century, initially with a store selling small goods.

Later the family expanded in the river trade with some kawabune boats and also money-lending, a lucrative business for many Japanese  merchants in the Edo Period.

Their greatest success came with the manufacture of soy sauce which reached its peak in  the Meiji period.

The current buildings date back no later than the mid 19th century as much of the town was destroyed by a fire in 1843.

It is quite a large property with many buildings including the residential part and with a long garden in between.

The storerooms to the rear contain a lot of exhibits pertaining to the manufacture of soy sauce.

Entry is free and there are sometimes staff on hand to offer information.

As far as I can tell this is the only traditional building in the merchant quarter that is open to the public.

The previous post in this series on my walk along the Chugoku Kannon Pilgrimage was on the samurai mansion up the hill.

Orii Family Samurai Residence & Garden

 

The former Orii family residence in the castle town of Takahashi in Okayama was a fairly high-ranking samurai home built in the late Edo Period.

Placed around the property are various mannequins dressed in period costume including a suitably obsequious servant.

I found it a little creepy. In a museum when viewing a historical tableau, then it seems OK, but when you can walk around in the space I find it somehow distracting.

As this is next door to the Haibara Residence, it would suggest that the two samurai families were of a similar ranking, but as this one is closer to castle I would guess slightly higher ranked.

 

As the photo below shows, there were two separate entrances: one for receiving guests and one for daily life.

All the rooms of the property are open to visitors.

The gardens are nice enough, but nothing special and did not seem well tended. The gardens next door were better in my opinion.

There is a also a museum displaying armour, weapons etc

There are a variety of joint-entry tickets including the neighbouring samurai residence, the castle, and Raikyuji Temple.

These photos are from August, 2014 while I was on day 6 of my walk along the Chugoku Kannon Pilgrimage. The previous post was the Haibara Samurai Residence next door.

Haibara Samurai Residence

 

The former Haibara Samurai Residence is located in Takahashi, the castle town in the mountains of central Okayama, on the Takahashi River.

It is on a road of former samurai residences at the north of the town, near the base of the mountain on top of which sits Bitchi Matsuyama Castle, known as the highest castle in Japan.

At 430 meters above sea level, it is one of the few castles remaining in Japan with an original tenshu, or keep, and the only mountaintop castle with an original keep.

The former Haibara Residence was built about 170 years ago at the end of the Edo Period.

Unusual for a samurai residence, it was built in what is known as sukiya-style, normally associated with temples and teahouses.

Numerous artifacts including furniture and some armour are on display.

The gardens have also been kept in their original form.

There is a joint entry ticket to this house and the slightly more impressive Orii House next door which I will post about next.

Takahashi is a little off the main tourist routes, but is well worth a visit. While it is not a Preservation District, it has plenty of traditional architecture as well as the amazing castle, some lovely temples, and just outside town a great modern art museum.

On this visit, my second to Takahashi, I was on day 6 of my walk along the Chugoku Kannon Pilgrimage.

The previous post was on nearby Raikyuji Temple which was used as a home by the daimyo and has an amazing garden by Kobori Enshu.

Kobori Enshu Garden at Raikyuji Temple

 

Kobori Enshu ( 1579 - 1647 ) was an aristocrat most well known for being a Tea Master.

He was also a painter, poet, and probably the most influential garden designer of the early Edo Period.

His garden at Raikyuji Temple is considered one of his earliest garden designs.

Raikyuji is a Rinzai Zen Temple  located in the castle town of Takahashi in Okayama.

The castle, Bitchu Matsuyama Castle, is one of the 12 castles in Japan still with an original tenshu, or keep, and  is also the highest castle in Japan.

Raikyuji Temple's founding date is unknown but it was rebuilt here in 1339 as Ankokuji Temple.

In the early 16th century the temple was developed by the lord of the castle, Ueno Yorihisa. His grave is at the temple.

The temple was destroyed in a battle in 1575 but was rebuilt by the victors.

Following the Battle of Sekigahara, Tokugawa Ieyasu installed Kobori Masatsugu to rule the area.

The castle was still in a state of disrepair after the battle of 1575 so Kobori lived in and administered the area out of Raikyuji Temple.

Following his death in 1604 control passed to his son Kobori Masakazu who would later become known by the name Enshu.

He lived at the temple for 15 years and is believed to have designed the garden during that time.

The garden can be viewed from both the Shoin and building next door.

On the north side of the shoin is a small pond garden to the rear of the main hall.

The garden features heavily-pruned azalea bushes.

Obviously, when they are in bloom in May then the garden takes on quite a different appearance.

the focal point of the garden is a Crane Island with its upright central stone.

Behind it is a Turtle Island, though it is somewhat hidden.

The garden incorporates the "borrowed scenery" of Mount Atago behind it.

A stone lantern dating to 1339 is a focal point of the garden between the two buildings.

In 1974 the garden was registered as National Scenic Beauty Spot.

On this trip I visited Takahashi on Day 6 of my walk along the Chugoku Kannon Pilgrimage. The previous post was on the photogenic Kiyama Temple.